Oh wow. Man just get a TDS meter. If you have rodi unit get yourself a 3 ports TDS meter like this one and add it to your system.
Change filters based on which port is reading above zero...
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/dual...zxe6xBlliJSNN1Pp9SSWK5Gn8gbx-o3EaAqCVEALw_wcB
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You missed my point.I have one and has nothing to do with TDS, lol
Tds meter will not show how much Chlorine or Chloramine you are removing or have. Therefore, you can either be replacing your carbon blocks to fast or not enough. Chloramine is for sure deadly read the article for more info.
Disinfection Byproducts like Trihalomethanes, Volatile Organic Compounds, METHYL tertiary-butyl ether, chlorine, chloramines, cysts and lead are the primary contaminants to Public Water Systems. They have no impact on the conductivity of the water. Yet these do not register on a TDS meter.
Never heard if that.I understand your point as well but lets say my TDS is zero coming out of my RODI but my waste water shows Chlorine > 0.50 ppm you need to change your carbon blocks. Maybe I am overthinking this, lol
Yup, as I said, it's not wrong to test for chlorine, its hassle that can be avoided by the tds since tds tells you more than what chlorine test alone would tell you, and will avoid tests, reagents and test errors.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJz2_fEJixE
That is what Bulk Reef Supply says to check your waste water before membrane. I think if you measure the ro line before di this is after membrane, you want to check before it hits membrane from my understanding.
TDS meters will measure anything that changes the conductivity of the water, which would include any ions like chlorine. Chloramine itself is covered in the article given, so I won't say much more here. If I wanted to measure RO/DI, I'd probably go for the 761, but your area might be different. The level of chloramine in the water might be covered in a water report for your area. If it's very high, I might be tempted to get the other unit, but most likely, the RO/DI will start with a low level of chlorine in it, and I'd want to detect that.
I suspect that a good TDS meter will be good enough, though. Once the DI phase starts its decline, the total TDS should be detectable before a dangerous amount of chloramine is getting through. That approach seems to work for people. If you are very worried, using two DI phases is a reasonable idea. Once the TDS of the first DI cartridge starts rising, switch the DI phases and replacing the failing cartridge will give very pure water.