I think his original intention was to build a 5 channel driver specifically for a dream chip. I like the idea, and understand his desire to "package" the whole thing on one small PcB, but going "all-in" on one PcB has it's downsides too. The failure of just one component could render the entire 5 channel driver unusable. Just that particular failure mode alone is enough to convince me that it's best to use individual drivers for each channel, and at $6 each, the driver you linked is an excellent candidate for the job. $30 per 5 channels is a great deal and it's gotta be less $$ than similar DIY effort.
Has anyone made an LED driver based on LM3463 6 channel driver IC?
- Thread starter tomservo
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I think his original intention was to build a 5 channel driver specifically for a dream chip. I like the idea, and understand his desire to "package" the whole thing on one small PcB, but going "all-in" on one PcB has it's downsides too. The failure of just one component could render the entire 5 channel driver unusable. Just that particular failure mode alone is enough to convince me that it's best to use individual drivers for each channel, and at $6 each, the driver you linked is an excellent candidate for the job. $30 per 5 channels is a great deal and it's gotta be less $$ than similar DIY effort.
Thanks for the input O2. I'm planning on using Dream Chips also which can run at 1400ma. From the LDD to 0 thread using the LDD's on your 5 up boards, (which I already have) makes the most sense. I can just pull a bad one from the IC sockets or change to a lower amperage LDD, which I like. If only Meanwell would start selling some higher amperage LDD's we would be all set. I'll see what Tom thinks about these ebay drivers.---Rick
I just got to checking the thread today, looking at the A6211 datasheet now.. Looks like a nice, low part count chip. Not sure what they cost or anything, but it doesn't support voltage based dimming, which kills it for me.. I need to build a fixture for a friend with an apex, and they only do 0-10v. I realize that I could use converters but I doubt I will. It's nice that they made the board so configurable.. And the cost of doing so is pennies, so it's not like it adds much cost for the manufacturer.
Another reason to go for an all in one 5 channel board, is that I can build in connectors for everything. Wiring up 5 seperate boards turns into a nasty box of spaghetti right away, connections everywhere, 30000 terminal strips and not to mention I'd need 20 screws and spacers etc just to hold 5 pcs driver board in a housing of some sort. It's not deal breaking but one of the things I am looking to do is make stuff like swapping a board out to be much easier. I can use a ribbon connector and daisy chain the dimming inputs, for instance. That's dozens of connections on this planned build. It will be 5x dream chip lights.
Still packing stuff up, I spent the evening disassembling my lathe and carrying 90+ lb boxes of tooling to the van.
Another reason to go for an all in one 5 channel board, is that I can build in connectors for everything. Wiring up 5 seperate boards turns into a nasty box of spaghetti right away, connections everywhere, 30000 terminal strips and not to mention I'd need 20 screws and spacers etc just to hold 5 pcs driver board in a housing of some sort. It's not deal breaking but one of the things I am looking to do is make stuff like swapping a board out to be much easier. I can use a ribbon connector and daisy chain the dimming inputs, for instance. That's dozens of connections on this planned build. It will be 5x dream chip lights.
Still packing stuff up, I spent the evening disassembling my lathe and carrying 90+ lb boxes of tooling to the van.
Tomservo-
The A6211 is only $1.05 each at DigiKey. I got intrigued by the idea of using it in a 5 channel driver design, so I began drawing up a PcB for earlier today. I'm still working on it, but I've managed to squeeze everything into a 5cm x 10cm PcB. I'll post it up for you to look at sometime in the next few days. Here's a photo of the 5cm x 2cm single channel PcB that I'll panelize into a single 5cm x 10cm Pcb. Once I have the individual channels sitting side by side, I'll rework the Vin & grounds to common buses between all five drivers. Let me know what you think?
Hey Tom, thanks for the reply, hope your move is coming along!
I'm still planning on Arduino for control of my DC's(4-5), so pwm dimming would work for me, but like you said I'm not sure how I would package 5 of these drivers without having a wiring rats nest. I would like to mount the driving unit on the fixture/cannon itself similar to Lasse's. The wiring I would need to send back to the controller is 2 wires for power, 5 for pwm and 5 for Zalman & 18B20's. I was planning on using O2's 5up boards, mount it in a plastic case of some sort with cat5's for pwm, fans,temp, and a molex for power, but the units would still end up being rather large. I do like the 1500ma output on these A6211 boards. I looked at Digi-Key also,and it say A6211 has a max out put of 3A, on sale .76@
Anyhow I'll watch for more input from you and O2. Ideally, if you ended up with plug & play 5 driver 5cm x 10cm boards with on board connectors (cat5, molex, whatever)...Touchdown!!!:dance: ---Rick
I'm still planning on Arduino for control of my DC's(4-5), so pwm dimming would work for me, but like you said I'm not sure how I would package 5 of these drivers without having a wiring rats nest. I would like to mount the driving unit on the fixture/cannon itself similar to Lasse's. The wiring I would need to send back to the controller is 2 wires for power, 5 for pwm and 5 for Zalman & 18B20's. I was planning on using O2's 5up boards, mount it in a plastic case of some sort with cat5's for pwm, fans,temp, and a molex for power, but the units would still end up being rather large. I do like the 1500ma output on these A6211 boards. I looked at Digi-Key also,and it say A6211 has a max out put of 3A, on sale .76@
Anyhow I'll watch for more input from you and O2. Ideally, if you ended up with plug & play 5 driver 5cm x 10cm boards with on board connectors (cat5, molex, whatever)...Touchdown!!!:dance: ---Rick
Hey Tom-
Here's the Pcb that I've managed to create. I actually had to create the A6211 chip library from scratch, as I couldn't find an existing Eagle Library for it. The Pcb passes Itead's design checks and the I drew the circuit directly from the Manufacturer's data sheet, so it should work in theory...Lol. Let me know what you think?
Here's the Pcb that I've managed to create. I actually had to create the A6211 chip library from scratch, as I couldn't find an existing Eagle Library for it. The Pcb passes Itead's design checks and the I drew the circuit directly from the Manufacturer's data sheet, so it should work in theory...Lol. Let me know what you think?
O2: that looks very nice, very clean layout. The only things I would find missing are connectors, and those are easy enough to work in, just a light edit really. Ideally there'd be a robust VIN connector and a pin header for the PWM and 12V for the fan. Pin header b/c you can daisy chain them with ribbon cables.
The only other thing I noted was that the A6211 in PWM dimming mode, dims by PWM output to the LEDs rather than adjusting the current. I think almost every chip does this, though - even that MP chip I am going to try on when I get a chance soonish.
The only other thing I noted was that the A6211 in PWM dimming mode, dims by PWM output to the LEDs rather than adjusting the current. I think almost every chip does this, though - even that MP chip I am going to try on when I get a chance soonish.
Quick warning: drawing directly from a datasheet is actually not a good idea with led drivers. The reason, I found, was that the tolerances on the resistors (even 1%) makes the driver put out more than 1 amp or whatever the datasheet says it does.
If you designed the driver board with a 3 amp max in mind, then I would suggest making the current set resistor set the current to around 2.95a instead of the full 3a. That way, even with 1% tolerance, you get 2.9795 amps.
I recently had to reorder a bunch of resistors because of this.
Quick warning: drawing directly from a datasheet is actually not a good idea with led drivers. The reason, I found, was that the tolerances on the resistors (even 1%) makes the driver put out more than 1 amp or whatever the datasheet says it does.
If you designed the driver board with a 3 amp max in mind, then I would suggest making the current set resistor set the current to around 2.95a instead of the full 3a. That way, even with 1% tolerance, you get 2.9795 amps.
I recently had to reorder a bunch of resistors because of this.
What I should have said, is that I drew the circuit directly from the datasheet but not the components and their respective values. I've found too, that the component values do need some "tweeking" to get your desired maximum current output, regardless of what the datasheet or their fancy excel spread sheet says.LOL I picked a lot of the component packages used in this PcB, simply because I already have them leftover from building batches of LM3409 based drivers. Those drivers were designed with 3amps in mind, but this one will be aimed for about half that, approximately 1400ma per channel. Needless to say, but every new design that I produce is treated as a Prototype only, it will probably go through many design changes until I've worked out all the "kinks". LOL
Since your looking to make a driver that's compatible with Analog dimming, why not include an arduino based 0-10V analog/ 5V PWM interface on the same pcb? I think I posted the build files for it somewhere in the LDD thread.
TOMSERVO & 007BOND
Here it is. I'm going to order a batch of this PcB and set them up for 1400ma each. (they can do 2000ma with just a resistor swap) They'll be a direct replacement for the LDD-1000H on any of the Pre-existing LDD-H PcB's. I managed to find all of the parts cheap enough to build the first batch of 20 for about $6 each. Let me know what you think?
Here it is. I'm going to order a batch of this PcB and set them up for 1400ma each. (they can do 2000ma with just a resistor swap) They'll be a direct replacement for the LDD-1000H on any of the Pre-existing LDD-H PcB's. I managed to find all of the parts cheap enough to build the first batch of 20 for about $6 each. Let me know what you think?
Alrighty! Been waiting to see this. That's a little board. I still would like to do away with the screw terminal connections. What I would like is a A6211 5up board with a 10 pin header for the 5 led + & -, a 3 pin for power, with a RJ45 connector for pwm.
Something like this, if possible.---Rick
Something like this, if possible.---Rick
007
Now that you're using EAGLE, why don't you just design a driver board exactly the way you want it. Just use the LDD-H driver footprint in your design and the little driver that I've designed will plug right in. I'll build a batch of drivers and send you however many you need for cheap. I don't have any personal need for these drivers, so this just an engineering exercise and entertainment for me. LoL:lolspin:
Now that you're using EAGLE, why don't you just design a driver board exactly the way you want it. Just use the LDD-H driver footprint in your design and the little driver that I've designed will plug right in. I'll build a batch of drivers and send you however many you need for cheap. I don't have any personal need for these drivers, so this just an engineering exercise and entertainment for me. LoL:lolspin:
That is what I would like to do. I want a cat socket for PWM, and it would be cool to use one also for power. I'm not sure what cat cables and scokets can handle amp wise. I was even thinking of pairing up 4 of the cables wires for the +, and 4 for -. In my case the connector would need to handle up to 7 amps.
---RickThanks O2,
I'm working on my Eagle skills. I got a schematic together by following your layout and pulling parts from library. When I move to board, I can't tell if I have it right (nothing to copy from) I think I need to watch some more YouTube how to's. To build a board from scratch, would the 6211 footprint be smaller than a LDD? I think I would have a smaller footprint by grouping them together. I don't know if I need to be able to remove a single driver, or if I could just desolder and replace one if it fails? My ideal board would be small with the connectors I showed in the picture. Also in your post on the pwm to analog board you built, you said you used "hot air"? is this something I could do? I can through hole solder ok, and I soldered smd resistors on my 5 up boards. don't know what hot air is? Last question, I would want to make a plastic case to house and mount the 6211 drivers on my fixtures. Heat...? will 6211's generate heat? Can I enclose these in a plastic case? or will they need to be free air? Thanks---Rick
Rick-
I'd recommend, for the sake of learning, that you grab the build files for one of the PcB designs that I've posted, and modify them directly in EAGLE. All you have to do is create a new "folder" in "projects" and then insert the .brd & .sch files of the preexisting PcB design into the folder. You can then open the folder and toggle between the schematic and board screens to see what ever changes you want to make. To make changes you must alter the schematic first. Any change you make will be automatically reflected on the PcB layout screen. I've found that it's the easiest way to learn EAGLE quickly.
The A6211 PcB that I posted is smaller than an LDD-H. I designed the PcB by positioning the components into the the "device symbol" for an LDD-H. The round green pads that you can see in the photo of the PcB are taken directly from an LDD-H, They are the connection pins of an LDD-H. I made a custom copy of the MeanWell LDD-H library part and then edited out the "Meanwell LDD-H" from the silk screen layer. That's why it doesn't show up on the A6211 PcB.
To answer your question about "Hot Air"- YES, You can do it yourself. It's easy! I'd use SMD components exclusively now, but I still have a lot of through hole components in my collection that I need to use up first. LOL Some people, like "Bacon Biter", use a Toaster Oven to do the "Hot Air" soldering on his awesome controller. I'm not making large batches of anything, so for smaller builds I use a "hot plate" and a hand held "Heat Gun". I start the soldering process by placing a small amount of "solder paste" (actual solder not flux) onto each pad on the PcB. Then I place each component into position using tweezers. Once all the components are placed, I then transfer the PcB to the surface of the hot plate (preheated to 300 degrees). I then use the heat gun to blow hot air (600 degrees +) over the surface of the board. I continue heating the PcB and components until the solder melts and most of the flux burns off. From the time the solder melts to the time the flux evaporates normally takes about 10 seconds. I then turn off the heat and allow the PcB to cool. After the PcB cools to the touch, I'll then place and solder any through hole components that remain. I finish the process by washing the PcB with a Flux remover and then manually trim all excess component leads.
As far as a plastic case for your drivers? Sure, why not? Just make sure to design it in such a way that adequate ventilation can be maintained. All electronics will generate some heat, so just make allowances for heat removal, and you'll be fine.
