Has anyone made an LED driver based on LM3463 6 channel driver IC?
- Thread starter tomservo
- Start date
Looks nice O2,...almost machine built.:lmao: No more of those little copper hs's? I'll have to take a closer look at what your building now,...its been a while since I have looked at the 6211's. I have the parts to make 1400 and 700w boards but my trusty heat gun just took a dump(Chinese junk).
Are you still building yours with a heat gun or have you moved to an oven. I remember way back when,... you helped me with my design idea and post the "how to" directions for soldering SMD parts to the boards I got from Itead...worked perfectly! :beer:
Want to say Thanks O2,... for all the insight and help you have provided to myself and many others on the thread. :thumbsup:---Rick
Are you still building yours with a heat gun or have you moved to an oven. I remember way back when,... you helped me with my design idea and post the "how to" directions for soldering SMD parts to the boards I got from Itead...worked perfectly! :beer:
Want to say Thanks O2,... for all the insight and help you have provided to myself and many others on the thread. :thumbsup:---Rick
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Thanks Rick! LOL- still no oven, but I did buy and use a bonafide Hot Air SMD Rework station to solder these Pcb's. Sooooo much easier to use than my trusty old heat gun.
I'm still using the little copper sinks for my LDD-H replacement drivers, but For this new 6 channel board, I thought it would speed up the assembly process to use a single long sink. The big sink only required a few drilled holes and screws to get it done.
Like I said...its been a while since I looked at these. What are you controlling with the six channels,...are you just splitting up colors more or six channel multi chips?
I was reading a thread where the guys were building their diy fixtures using Radon Gen2 pucks(some guys were selling their 2's after upgrading to 3's)...kind of interesting.
I was reading a thread where the guys were building their diy fixtures using Radon Gen2 pucks(some guys were selling their 2's after upgrading to 3's)...kind of interesting.
Board for sale?
Board for sale?
Hello O2,
Do you still have one of these boards available for sale? I have spent weeks trying to find a driver to drive an RGBW-CW light I've beed planning and nothing fits my needs. It seems your creation would work perfectly for me. Please let me know if you have one available and what you will charge.
Board for sale?
Hello O2,
Do you still have one of these boards available for sale? I have spent weeks trying to find a driver to drive an RGBW-CW light I've beed planning and nothing fits my needs. It seems your creation would work perfectly for me. Please let me know if you have one available and what you will charge.
A6211 circuit
A6211 circuit
hi friends this is arul am new to this forum. my problem was our engineerier designed the current generating circuit based on pwm by using the follwing ic called A6211GLJTR-T. unfortunately we are not get the execpted current.
se are follow the same specification for componet they give in data sheet.some componet are we using throuh hole insted of smd. like rsence resistor and capacitor.
output:
we are using 1.3 khz pwm signal for EN and input supply is 24v.am getting the led brightness prefectully but not get the 1.3A CURRENT AM GETTING ONELY 0.16A THIS IS OUR PROBLEM.am varing the pwm the output voltage varing from 0 to 23 v.
any one please tell hiw i get the 1.3 A current as soon as possible.:headwalls::headwalls::headwalls:
A6211 circuit
hi friends this is arul am new to this forum. my problem was our engineerier designed the current generating circuit based on pwm by using the follwing ic called A6211GLJTR-T. unfortunately we are not get the execpted current.
se are follow the same specification for componet they give in data sheet.some componet are we using throuh hole insted of smd. like rsence resistor and capacitor.
output:
we are using 1.3 khz pwm signal for EN and input supply is 24v.am getting the led brightness prefectully but not get the 1.3A CURRENT AM GETTING ONELY 0.16A THIS IS OUR PROBLEM.am varing the pwm the output voltage varing from 0 to 23 v.
any one please tell hiw i get the 1.3 A current as soon as possible.:headwalls::headwalls::headwalls:
hi am facing some problem in that A6211GLJTR-T circuit.my problem was am not get the current in output side that means am fallow the application circuit in that data sheet but am not get the 1.3A current am get only 0.16 A but am check with 10 led series i can vary the brightness of led based on vary the pwm duty cycle. my problem was i not get the 1.3A current. becoze i need to run the fan insted of the led so way i expect the 1.3A current range any one give some idea am check the voltage level that prefectully vary badsed on pwm but not get the current value.
our input supply is 24V am vay the pwm duty from 0 to 100 am getting the output voltage is 0 t0 23V but current 0.009A to 0.16A please any one help me as soon as possible. thanks in advance
our input supply is 24V am vay the pwm duty from 0 to 100 am getting the output voltage is 0 t0 23V but current 0.009A to 0.16A please any one help me as soon as possible. thanks in advance
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
Switchers are very sensitive to placement/layout of the switch node and input.
Can you grab a picture of the circuit? What inductor (value and DC resistance) and what type of capacitor (value and type, e.g. Ceramic) are at the input and output? I assume you are measuring the current in series with a multimeter?
Can you grab a picture of the circuit? What inductor (value and DC resistance) and what type of capacitor (value and type, e.g. Ceramic) are at the input and output? I assume you are measuring the current in series with a multimeter?
Ugh.... I think I'm done for awhile?
Just finished swappin' in a couple of these to drive my Veros. No more LDD's for me!
Here's a few pictures of how they turned out. They work beautifully too....
topside-
backside-
Master & Slave-
How's V.2 coming
How's V.2 coming
They're in transit right now. Hopefully I'll get them by Saturday :bounce1:
I added the goodies you wanted.... we'll see how it works?
Krazie4Acans
New member
O2 I have a couple questions. First, what are the two RJ45 connectors for on your board? What are the output current selections with this board? What are the dimensions of the board?
The RJ45 ports provide a way to pass 6 PWM signals and 2 common grounds between multiple driver boards. The driver boards are designed to act as either a Master or a Slave.The PcB has 2 RJ45 jacks to allow multiple "Slaves" to be daisy chained to one "Master".
How the circuit works-
The BlueFish Mini's PWM signals (on the "master") get passed through a hexbuffer that boosts them from a relatively weak 3.3V/3ma to a more powerful 5V/20ma. The new signal is then fed simultaneously to the RJ45 jacks for output to a "slave" and across the "master's" channel isolation diodes to the PWM input for each of the six drivers. (Complicated?...I know, but it works freakin' awesome!)
Each driver can be set to 300ma, 700ma, 1000ma, or 1400ma.
This board measures 100mm X 160mm.
V3 is here! I added led over-temp/ fan failure detection to this one. I added a connection point for a DS18B20 temp sensor and connected it's data line to digital pin 2 on the Atmega chip. The 6 channel hex buffer is now powered directly from digital pin 8 on the Atmega chip, so with proper programming the hex buffer and leds can be turned OFF if an over-temp condition is detected.
What you got to say - Rick?
What you got to say - Rick?
I was jumping up & down until the proper programming part :lmao:...whay back when...I put my Jarduino together had to id the 18b20's addresses,...how do they tell the Atmega to shut it down...I haven't followed your V1 boards...so I don't recall the programming on them...not thru the Bluefish right? :beer:
Rick-
I believe you can determine your temp sensors OneWire address using an off the shelf Arduino and a simple "OneWire address finder" sketch. Once you know the address of the temp sensor, a simple code could be written ( or simply pulled from the Internet) that reads the temp and then simply switches digital pin 8 from "high" to "low" when a certain temp threshold is exceeded. I've include all the hardware needed on the board for this to work. All you'd have to do is roll your temp code into the fan speed control sketch that's already on the board. Better yet, give me a temp that you don't want your leds to ever exceed and I'll do it for you. I suck at programming but it can't be that hard. :lolspin:
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Reef Mortician
New member
So, if I want to have 5 multi channel pucks dim independently from one another plus a moonlight channel. How many boards would I want or need? I would like to dim to lights left to right and ramp up and down in intensity.
I'm guessing 5? One for each multi-channel puck. You could then use the "pendant time shift" in the Bluefish APP to stagger the start and stop times for each lamp's dimming curve.
