Have enough of Tropic Marin Pro Salt

I just dont get it TMP is one of the best salts I have used and had great results with it. I only stopped using it because the price was going up and LFS stopped stocking it. I now use H2Ocean.
 
Actually, some of the residue many fear has already been examined by many respectable people in the Chemistry Forum. Randy, for one, leaves it in his mixing container (as do I) and has found that it is nothing more than excess magnesium precipitate.

I use Reef Crystals and get the same film in my mixing container. Never have I measured any ammonia or other detrimental, or for that matter measurable contaminants in my water prior to a water change. I would be skeptical of anything that instantly mixes clear. I guess I'm just curious as to why so many deem an instant mixing salt as something that is more pure. It's already been studied that most salt companies use, or have used water clarifying agents to give hobbyists that perceived value of a higher quality salt.

To each his own. I've used Tropic Marin in the past and even used TMP Reef. The latter was absolutely horrible at helping maintain calcium and alkalinity in an SPS tank. Many other salts are providing extra amounts of calcium and magnesium in their mix, while providing a more balanced alkalinity for those that carbon dose or use the new pellets. Even with these higher amounts and calcium reactors running, the salt was slowly driving all parameters down and I could visibly see less growth and coloration in the months that I used this salt.

For my dollar, neither TM is worth the cash, especially when you have to adjust it to your levels with other expensive and annoying additives. Clear as it may be, it's never going in my tank again.
 
Those values are correct and what I target for SPS growth. Not all clear how people have trouble maintaining these values unless they are running 12kH.

SPS take 2-3 months to respond positively. Both will work fine is used correctly. I left IO when I got a few dirty residue. The coating is brown and mostly calcium carbonate. But why is it brown?
 
I have been using TMPR for years, and it is a great salt.

MG is not 1300 PPM but nor is Natural Salt water in oceans ...

KH is 7, but so is the oceans ...

and so on.

I have now switched to KZ, and that is even a better salt, but way too expensive.
 
That is not the point. Read the thread again!
The point is TMP is not what it used to be!



I have been using TMPR for years, and it is a great salt.

MG is not 1300 PPM but nor is Natural Salt water in oceans ...

KH is 7, but so is the oceans ...

and so on.

I have now switched to KZ, and that is even a better salt, but way too expensive.
 
So you squarely blame TMP for your RTN because it looks different? Please explain.
A change in the hydroscopic nature of the salt (harder) and slower dissolving is your point?

I have had 6-8 year old colonies RTN and it is frusterating but I used IO then and myself blamed the older and useless term - old tank syndrome-.
 
I have four buckets of the rock-hard TMRP salt and one bucket that was not rock hard. I've been using it since my first bucket of RSCP ran out and haven't been able to keep the SPS's in my tank alive. They turn brown and mushy at the tips and then just fade away. I've had to pre-dose alk on every water change. I'm a noob and thought this was normal. Montis die in my tank ASAP. My params are stable and my lighting is excellent. Thoughts?

Kev
 
Red Sea Coral Pro - old formulation

I've had the majority of my SPS for about 6 months. The first SPS I got was a green Bali slimer that was doing great but has declined since using the TMRP salt.
 
Eric,

to detect if there has been a mistake from our side, we need the batch number which can be found stamped on the underside of the lid. We did get only few emails regarding low alkalinity and most were from customers that did get alarmed by threads in this forum.
I can read some postings that customers have bought PRO-REEF and now, alarmed by this thread, are annoyed about a KH of 7° when in fact we never claimed anything else but being close to natural nevels.
A KH of 7° means in my eyes, the salt is at its optimum value, no need for any change. If you believe something different you have to take a different salt, maybe the classic Tropic Marin Mix.
The problem is, you cannot have everything, a salt with high calcium, high KH and free of synthetic chelators because you already get saturation with calcium carbonate at natural levels. If you elevate calcium and KH over natural levels you will get precipitates if you don´t use synthetic chelators. So you have to make your decision what you want.

IMHO the difference is in the levels of KH in the US in comparision to Europe. While in Europe in the last decade the insight has spread that it is not advantageous to elevate KH above natural levels, at least not in low nutrient systems, in the US elevated KH levels are still widespread and believed to be advantageous.

Hans-Werner

Mr. Hans-Werner:

I am a relative newbie to reef tanks. However, I switched to your product after starting my tank with Red Sea Coral Pro. To me, this was a good salt, and when my LFS ran out, they sold me your product as a substitute. It is, as far as I know, a good product as well. Since switching over last fall, I've had huge issues with my SPS corals and frags that I had in the tank. Monti's grey out and die, and acros turn brown and mushy at the tip and then die as well. LPS corals have had polyp bailout. You can see my most recent post here at http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1998773.

I don't want to cast aspersions on anyone's product, and can PM you the batch #'s from all 5 buckets, 3 of which are unopened in my garage and one in my utility room which has about 30 gallons worth of salt removed from it. I didn't have this problem before, and the acros seemed to be hit or miss with the first bucket, which I chalked up to wandering tank parameters and beginner's stupidity. However, the LPS polyp bailout on corals that were extremely healthy started immediately after using salt from the first of the four caked buckets. I stumbled across this thread after someone suggessted that I should check for feedback on the salt from other users.

I'm not asking for anything other than some help. If I have a bad batch, replacement would be appreciatated. I've checked for and found nothing wrong with any other parameters other than checking for copper, which I'll do tomorrow. After that, I'm not sure where to go. Was considering using balling lite to help with the issue.

At this point, any help is appreciated, as I'm banging my head against the wall.

Regards.

Kevin
 
Unfortunately it looks like Hans-Werner hasn't been back online for a while. I would assume it's still under investigation, but IMO since there are so many reported issues... it might be time to look at another salt for now. I think many of us have been trying others (IO, etc). Personally I still have some TMP left, so I'm mixing it in light batches with IO (which has a high alk that offsets the really low alk TMP).
 
I have used it threw a few batches that showed some hardening and latest bucket was granular as before. I get it from same source always. I have had great growth even through the hard 3-4 buckets.

It appears to be granular from a new shipment to Atlanta perhaps. I am a little suspicious of claims but it never hurts to be extra careful. I hate to say it but a tank less than 1 year old will have problems with SPS in many cases. I have had issues with SPS and it can be frustrating while tank matures.

Perhaps a poll is needed without leading reader one way or another.

I generally would advise against switching salt mixes in general as they are described with very basic parameters. I was reluctant to switch to TM about 7 years ago and really do not suggest switching salts every few buckets. Stability may be much more important than product selection, atleast with reputable salt vendors.

If your having trouble I would recommend IO and just sticking with it for long period. It often goes on sale.
 
Last edited:
It's not Mr. Hans-Werner. It's Mr. Balling. As in the Balling Method.

I havent checked my salt parameters in months. the last batch of tmp i bought late last year, 3 buckets, free shipping deal. bricks, all of them. think the dkh is low? cant wait to check tomorrow. if it is im ordering a couple boxes of KZ or tunze.
 
Went in my lfs that I bought the salt from to get a red carpet anemone. Talked with the manager and he said he has switch his entire store tank salt from TMP to DD. The reason he stated was the DD salt is same price and better salt.
 
Mr. Hans-Werner:

I am a relative newbie to reef tanks. However, I switched to your product after starting my tank with Red Sea Coral Pro. To me, this was a good salt, and when my LFS ran out, they sold me your product as a substitute. It is, as far as I know, a good product as well. Since switching over last fall, I've had huge issues with my SPS corals and frags that I had in the tank. Monti's grey out and die, and acros turn brown and mushy at the tip and then die as well. LPS corals have had polyp bailout. You can see my most recent post here at http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1998773.

I don't want to cast aspersions on anyone's product, and can PM you the batch #'s from all 5 buckets, 3 of which are unopened in my garage and one in my utility room which has about 30 gallons worth of salt removed from it. I didn't have this problem before, and the acros seemed to be hit or miss with the first bucket, which I chalked up to wandering tank parameters and beginner's stupidity. However, the LPS polyp bailout on corals that were extremely healthy started immediately after using salt from the first of the four caked buckets. I stumbled across this thread after someone suggessted that I should check for feedback on the salt from other users.

I'm not asking for anything other than some help. If I have a bad batch, replacement would be appreciatated. I've checked for and found nothing wrong with any other parameters other than checking for copper, which I'll do tomorrow. After that, I'm not sure where to go. Was considering using balling lite to help with the issue.

At this point, any help is appreciated, as I'm banging my head against the wall.

Regards.

Kevin

My god, this is EXACTLY the problem I have been having. Down to the very last letter of the very last word. LPS, polyp bailout and detachment, monti caps dying immediately, SPS having RTN and STN events.

All, while wondering why this salt I have is so hard where I have to slam it down on the floor to break it up.
 
Back
Top