Heater not heating Display Tank

I have the 700GPH overflow from glass holes - with a 3/4" return that is reduced to 1/2" - I had to dial it back about a 1/4 turn.

Another thing I have noticed though is that when I have the snails / fish guard off the overflow box it will take in way more water..but then you get the annoying sound.

I don't know how many gph is actually being over-turned..but it is much higher than before.

I have 2 thermometers that both read the same...I guess I will get a 3rd.
 
I would say you need both a larger return pump and new/better brand heater. If the heater is in the DT and still shutting off even set at 86 with a tank temp of 76, then you do NOT have a reliable heater. Even with a separate controller, your heater won't stay on.

To answer your recent question...again. And to reiterate "You need newer, reliable heaters". Here is an example of a decent heater.

http://www.amazon.com/Cobalt-Aquati...099513&sr=8-1&keywords=cobalt+aquarium+heater
 
Yes I understand all that guys. I was just trying to go through the process of elimination. I will get a new heater. thanks for all the help :)
 
My fluval E300 shuts down with out enough flow. The beauty of it is flashes low flow on the screen to let you know.
I tried it out in my 20 gallon mixing brute can and in 3 hours it didn't heat at all and flashed this low flow screen. 400 maxijet was not enough flow.

Put it on my tank and no problems there
 
the 700gph overflow from glass holes is actually less than like 500 per what folks have been saying, so turnover may be an issue.

Of course, a 150w heater from your local pet store could be an easy solution to try.
 
I would really look into a Finnex titanium heating tube with a ranco controller a 300w should be sufficient to heat your tank
 
I have had 2 neo-therm heaters die within 6 months of each other, so they are not tops in my book(even though they have been voted as one of the best).

I now have a finnex titanium rod heater hooked up to my apex and all is good so far.
 
I would advise against any heater which has it's main element housed in plastic. I'm a big fan of Ranco but having any kind of external controller from the one built into the heater is highly advised.

I have 3 temp probes on my Apex, a Ranco controller, and 2 heaters with built in thermostats all working together to heat my system.
 
I've followed this for a bit and can't remember at this point. Are the heaters in the sump or DT? If in the sump, is the sump warmer than the DT? If not, we can dismiss flow, and blame the heaters...
 
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