i have a 55gal mixed tank and all my fish keep dying. the carpet anemone, frogspawn, and polyps are fine. it started with a blue spotted puffer (was going to do a FOWLR) but when it died about 1 week after getting it I decided to go mixed reef so I added a carpet anemone, some frogspawn, and some polyps. a week later I added a small yellow tang and a small blue tang. after about 2 weeks they appeared to be healthy so I added a small lion fish. a week later I woke up to all 3 being dead. tested water and all seemed okay. Nitrites 0, Ammonia 0, Ph 8.2, and Nitrates 10. did a water change and a week later added a larger lion fish. after about 3 or 4 days he appeared to develop ich so took him my LFS and put him in their quarantine tank. tested water again with same results as above. waited a week and added a clownfish and it died after 3 days. tested water again with the same results as above with exception of Nitrates were 20. all corals and anemone appear healthy. any insight as to what is killing my fish would be greatly appreciated. all topoff water is rodi water.
Help!!!! Fish keep dying
- Thread starter j3st3r
- Start date
rpjaws74
New member
It appears to me that you might be rushing into things. Adding all those fish to a newly set up aquarium (assuming you just went thru the cycle a couple weeks ago) your over loading your "BIO-Load". Thats way to many fish for a 55 glln. Most people here will tell you not to keep any tangs in a 55 cause they get to big and aggressive. If I was you I wait to add anything for 2-3 weeks let your system catch up with the bio-load and add fish that are appropriate for a 55glln
thank you for the reply...
both tangs were not much larger than a 50 cent piece and the lionfish was probably 2 1/2 to 3 inches long so I wouldn't think it was a bioload issue with ammonia and nitrites at 0 and nitrates at 10 but I could be completely wrong (I'm not a novice but not super experienced either). the puffer went in first by itself with no other fish or corals. I waited 2 weeks after it died to add anything else and then added the carpet anemone along with the frogspawn and polyps. a week after that I added the 2 tangs. after 2 more weeks with ammonia and nitrites at 0 and nitrates around 10 I added the lionfish. when I awoke to all 3 of them being dead about a week later I tested the water and also had the LFS test it to make sure my test results were accurate and the results were the same ammonia and nitrites 0 and nitrates around 10. a week and 1/2 later I added the larger lionfish by itself and within about 3 or 4 days it's developed what appeared to be ich. I removed it and took it to the LFS for quarantine. a week or later I added the clownfish and it died with 3 days. tested water again and nitrites and ammonia were still 0 but nitrates were around 20. not sure if that's a bioload issue or not. if not then does anyone else have any ideas what it could be. the corals are fine as well as the anemone.
both tangs were not much larger than a 50 cent piece and the lionfish was probably 2 1/2 to 3 inches long so I wouldn't think it was a bioload issue with ammonia and nitrites at 0 and nitrates at 10 but I could be completely wrong (I'm not a novice but not super experienced either). the puffer went in first by itself with no other fish or corals. I waited 2 weeks after it died to add anything else and then added the carpet anemone along with the frogspawn and polyps. a week after that I added the 2 tangs. after 2 more weeks with ammonia and nitrites at 0 and nitrates around 10 I added the lionfish. when I awoke to all 3 of them being dead about a week later I tested the water and also had the LFS test it to make sure my test results were accurate and the results were the same ammonia and nitrites 0 and nitrates around 10. a week and 1/2 later I added the larger lionfish by itself and within about 3 or 4 days it's developed what appeared to be ich. I removed it and took it to the LFS for quarantine. a week or later I added the clownfish and it died with 3 days. tested water again and nitrites and ammonia were still 0 but nitrates were around 20. not sure if that's a bioload issue or not. if not then does anyone else have any ideas what it could be. the corals are fine as well as the anemone.
HurricaneSystem
Member
So the question that has not been asked, describe your filtration and how you maintain it.
HurricaneSystem
Member
That's your problem. You need a bio bag that has the porous media that you can leave in for bacteria and not clean. Sounds like your tank is constantly going through the biological cycle and killing your livestock when you add load to the system. Go get 2 of the aquaclear bio bags and drop in each side of your filter.
MrTuskfish
Team RC
You have ich in your tank for one thing. Once a fish develops ich, all fish will have it and need treatment. You can't ignore this forever.
Your filtration should be fine. Bio-Wheels are great at eliminating ammonia, but don't help with nitrates (which don't hurt fish, just the inverts).
Your filtration should be fine. Bio-Wheels are great at eliminating ammonia, but don't help with nitrates (which don't hurt fish, just the inverts).
Monkeyfish
Active member
I agree that the problem is not the bioload or the filtration; though these may become problematic in the future. I wouldn't use this type of filtration with a reef tank due to quick build up of nitrates.
Two possibilities come to mind:
1. There is a disease, in addition to Ich, that is killing your fish; perhaps introduced when you first added the puffer.
2. The store where you buy livestock sucks and you're buying sick fish.
IMO - Leave the tank fishless for 8 weeks. While the tank is fallow (fishless) buy a fish and keep it in QT so you can observe it for signs of disease etc. During QT use Prazipro to treat for possible flukes and parasites. The med isn't harmful so there's no down side to using it (if done apprpropriately). If anything else pops up you can treat that too, though it's usually best to only use one medication at a time. After 8 weeks add the fish. This should leave a sufficient amount of time for the Ich to die off (though it might not as some studies have shown that crypto can live much longer without a host). Keep up with regular water changes to lower the nitrates and keep the corals/inverts healthy.
Good luck.
Two possibilities come to mind:
1. There is a disease, in addition to Ich, that is killing your fish; perhaps introduced when you first added the puffer.
2. The store where you buy livestock sucks and you're buying sick fish.
IMO - Leave the tank fishless for 8 weeks. While the tank is fallow (fishless) buy a fish and keep it in QT so you can observe it for signs of disease etc. During QT use Prazipro to treat for possible flukes and parasites. The med isn't harmful so there's no down side to using it (if done apprpropriately). If anything else pops up you can treat that too, though it's usually best to only use one medication at a time. After 8 weeks add the fish. This should leave a sufficient amount of time for the Ich to die off (though it might not as some studies have shown that crypto can live much longer without a host). Keep up with regular water changes to lower the nitrates and keep the corals/inverts healthy.
Good luck.
Triton_Z
Member
If you have ich, allowing the tank to go fallow (no fish) for 8-9 weeks will likely eradicate. You will leave the inverts in your tank. I have my doubts the ich infestation is responsible for your numerous deaths, but needs to be eliminated.
Your live rock and sandbed will provide sufficient biological filter for the appropriate bioload, which from your description of your stocking, was a tad high. Go slower in the future and consider a small QT to hold fish for observation and treatment before they go in your tank.
If not and I'm guessing a QT isn't in the cards, consider some proactive dips (Paraguard, Formalin, or Freshwater with methylene blue) as methods to reduce disease. The best practice is using quarantine, but dips have their place in our "toolbox".
Your live rock and sandbed will provide sufficient biological filter for the appropriate bioload, which from your description of your stocking, was a tad high. Go slower in the future and consider a small QT to hold fish for observation and treatment before they go in your tank.
If not and I'm guessing a QT isn't in the cards, consider some proactive dips (Paraguard, Formalin, or Freshwater with methylene blue) as methods to reduce disease. The best practice is using quarantine, but dips have their place in our "toolbox".
Peter T
Gallantly Forward
You do not need to remove anything now to treat for ich as long as there are no fish in the tank. You just need to leave your tank fishless for 8 weeks and the ich parasite should be dead. If you then quarantine all future fish, your tank will remain ich free. Be sure to "feed" your tank during this fishless period so your bacteria does not die off.
The fastest way to reduce nitrates is water changes. To keep nitrates down, you can start a refugium, feed less, set up an algae turf scrubber, employ a DSB or remote DSB, go bare bottom tank, or start to wet skim. Depending on how much LR you have, you can also add more LR and increase flow in the tank more. So many options and methods to keep nitrates down
The fastest way to reduce nitrates is water changes. To keep nitrates down, you can start a refugium, feed less, set up an algae turf scrubber, employ a DSB or remote DSB, go bare bottom tank, or start to wet skim. Depending on how much LR you have, you can also add more LR and increase flow in the tank more. So many options and methods to keep nitrates down
Triton_Z
Member
Your filtration is fine and would spend any extra money on a setting up a QT/HT if you have the budget.
I run a small reef tank with a HOB and no skimmer established for 4 years and grow hardy SPS (orange Montipora capricornis), LPS (lobos), and zooanthids. However, Monkeyfish's nitrate point is well taken, as regular water changes I believe are responsible for its success. Otherwise, it likely would have been a nitrate swamp.
Regular maintenance will improve your success.
I run a small reef tank with a HOB and no skimmer established for 4 years and grow hardy SPS (orange Montipora capricornis), LPS (lobos), and zooanthids. However, Monkeyfish's nitrate point is well taken, as regular water changes I believe are responsible for its success. Otherwise, it likely would have been a nitrate swamp.
Regular maintenance will improve your success.
HurricaneSystem
Member
I respectfully disagree on your filtering. I have faced many of these problems in the past. A bad LFS could be an issue, but you have horrible filtration for a saltwater tank honestly. A HOB should be a backup or for Chaeto, etc. In my opinion, a sump with sufficient media is almost a must.
Live sand and live rock are great, but I don't care what anyone tells you, they do not equal excellent water quality. Especially when you are overloaded. Just being honest and trying to help. Send me a PM. 20 dollars (not to me) will have you fixed right up.
Live sand and live rock are great, but I don't care what anyone tells you, they do not equal excellent water quality. Especially when you are overloaded. Just being honest and trying to help. Send me a PM. 20 dollars (not to me) will have you fixed right up.
I don't think it's LFS, several years ago i had a 75 reef setup and never had any issues with their livestock, I also have a biocube 29 reef setup now with a mated pair of black clownfish and a flame hawk that are healthy as can be, I think the 55gal is possessed I really appreciate everyone's input and I have already purchased a 10 gal quarantine tank but haven't gotten it set up yet. would it be best to use established water to set it up or would a full cycle be recommended?
I really appreciate everyone's input and I have already purchased a 10 gal quarantine tank but haven't gotten it set up yet. would it be best to use established water to set it up or would a full cycle be recommended?
MrTuskfish
Team RC
Basic reef tanks were kept for many years before anyone even knew what a fuge or chaeto was. IMO, while these are great advances, they aren't a requirement for a new basic reef with hardy inverts. . Many great Berlin system tanks are run with nothing but LR and a skimmer.
To the OP: Just another possibility; how are you acclimating new fish? PH, temp, and SG differences require very slow (by most standards) acclimation.
