Help! Large ich outbreak

the corals and the inverts will all be in the qt, its easier for me to accomodate my corals and inverts than it is all my fish. so there wouldnt be any inverts in the dt during hypo
 
Last edited:
Try raising your temp to 86 for a few days. It will help get rid of ich on the fish but not in the tank. I have tried it and it works. My tank is a fowlr. Just make sure you remove the corals/cuc. My fowlr tank has been running temp of 84 for 3 months and all my livestock are still thriving. My friend has been running his temp for 84 for 10 years and his 125 gallon fowlr tank is still healthy. Not sure how this will affect reef tanks though.
 
ive read that the marine variety of ich is different from its freshwater counterpart in that it can survive from 50-90 deg so turning up the temperature to try and accelerate its life cycle is actually pointless.
 
IME, I tried it and it works. Clownfish is still growing strong after they had ich and I never seen ich pop up again.
 
Be careful of anything that kills sandbed and rock bacteria: it will increase the waste in your system while diminishing the capacity of the system to deal with waste. Rock and a hard place on this.

If it were mine: I'd bite the bullet, buy a tank adequate, and put all fish into it, bare bottom, no rock, no sand, with a plain floss pot-filter [really potent pump in bucket with floss atop, changed daily] and go hypo with them, with the ATO on this tank, leaving the big tank fallow, but all corals and life left in place. Then put the bought-tank on the sale forum and recoup some of your cost. The floss will grab any parasite that falls off the fish and is daily tossed.

OMG, just noticed you're using Prime: USING PRIME WITH CUPRAMINE CONVERTS CUPRAMINE TO A COPPER THAT IS 10X MORE TOXIC,---WARNING!!!!!!!!!! do not use copper in treatment.
 
Last edited:
the corals and the inverts will all be in the qt, its easier for me to accomodate my corals and inverts than it is all my fish. so there wouldnt be any inverts in the dt during hypo

I was referring to the inverts you can't remove like flatworms, amphipods, copepods, etc. In some tanks, they make up a rather large biomass that may died off.

Not saying hypo in dt can't be done...
 
Be careful of anything that kills sandbed and rock bacteria: it will increase the waste in your system while diminishing the capacity of the system to deal with waste. Rock and a hard place on this.

If it were mine: I'd bite the bullet, buy a tank adequate, and put all fish into it, bare bottom, no rock, no sand, with a plain floss pot-filter [really potent pump in bucket with floss atop, changed daily] and go hypo with them, with the ATO on this tank, leaving the big tank fallow, but all corals and life left in place. Then put the bought-tank on the sale forum and recoup some of your cost. The floss will grab any parasite that falls off the fish and is daily tossed.

OMG, just noticed you're using Prime: USING PRIME WITH CUPRAMINE CONVERTS CUPRAMINE TO A COPPER THAT IS 10X MORE TOXIC,---WARNING!!!!!!!!!! do not use copper in treatment.

i read that on the cupramine faq, about cu2 and cu+

what size tank is aqequate for a dwarf lion (6"), porc puffer (6"), bi color angel, maroon clown, white ribbon eel, fox face (6"), kleins butterfly, lawnmower blenny

as for a filter your suggesting a 5gal bucket full of filter floss with a return pump to the qt tank? the qt tank would then require a bulkhead/overflow

edit, i pulled my porc puffer, lipstick, and bi color before my light cycle started today, and since the light cycle started (hour and a half ago) all of my livestock has been hiding, nothing has come out from the rockwork.
 
lol, no, an 6" diameter child's play bucket, with no metal, or an old CD bulk-buy container [my favorite, and free.,]
 
Airstones are fine for aeration. The only issue is the mess that they can make with water spray. I agree that using something like Prime along with a copper treatment is very dangerous.

Doing hyposalinity on the live rock will reduce its filtration capacity, at the least, and the dying invertebrates (worms, etc) could cause an ammonia spike. I would get a bio-wheel filter going, and move the rock to tubs. The live rock pretty much needs only a powerhead and a heater, along with a bit of food now and then. The coralline might die off, though.
 
I know the LR doesnt need much, I have about 80 lbs in a rubber maid with a heater and small powerhead in the laundry room, it was extra so i just cleaned it and decided to let it cure.
 
Back
Top