There have been some good suggestions as to ways to fix your issue, which is a combination of too much harsh light and not enough nutrients. For a big improvement I would bring your nitrates up from undetectable to between 2 and 10. You can do this with sodium, calcium, or potassium nitrate, which are readily available online. These fertilizers are typically used for freshwater planted tanks.
Raising nitrates through increased feelings or aminos is more difficult to achieve and control. Adding more fish is better than just feeding more to the fish you have if you don't want to directly dose nitrate.
So i got my hands on some KNO3(spectrazide tree stump) , and i want to dose it to raise no3. I tested again today and im at 0 salifert. Can someone please tell me the mixing*instructions, and the amount to dose. Also*a safeamount of ppm i can raise it to
Here is a calculator you can use to determine dosing: http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/calculator.htm
You can pre-mix with water or add the dry granules to an overflow box to slowly dissolve. Try to raise it about 2ppm at a time. I target 5ppm nitrate in my tank.
Thanks matt, I ended up doing 10 ml and mixed 2 tblsp in about 8 oz of RODI. This raised it to about 2ppm. But frankly I hate Salifert no3 kit because all the low number look the same lol
Thanks matt, I ended up doing 10 ml and mixed 2 tblsp in about 8 oz of RODI. This raised it to about 2ppm. But frankly I hate Salifert no3 kit because all the low number look the same lol
Will do. Just fiy I checked no3 this morning before dosing and went down just a bit. So I toned down my dosage from 10ml to 5ml, which put me at 5ppm, im guessing this seem to be the sweet spot for most people so I will leave it thereYes sometimes those shades are hard to tell apart. Just shoot for having some pink hue when looking through the side of the vial. I'm interested stop see what results you have:thumbsup:
Have you tried looking through the side?
I did notice, comparing 3 kits, that some of the cards were crap. I kept the best card with the most color difference. One of the cards had 3 squares of the same color, or at least my eyes couldn't tell the difference.
[/URL]
Too clean, look at your rocks, spotless and I can see into the next room.Make sure to feed some coral food on a regular basis, get some food in the water. Also make sure not to move PO4 too fast. .09 to .1 PO4 sounds about right for now. Maybe lower the light level, it may be too bright for how clean the water is.
If the corals had already been damaged some might be zombies and still showing symptoms from the original issue. Superglue the edges if you can and hope for the best.
Temp 81 lol. U are coocking corals lol
I never had a problem even keeping 83,5. Just be sure to have good flow around the tank
Best Regards
Neither have i Denadai, but i lowered it just to give it a try just in case. As far as flow i ran a gyre 130 at 60% pulse and mp10 at 40% reefcrest.
Yea the gyre is insane, i have to run it at pulse and cant go above 60 % without almost knocking corals of their base lol. I just run the mp to get the backsides of the tank more, but in reality i can go without it. I used to run the mp10 at 100% RC before the gyre, but for the money the gyre is amazing40% in a 62 cube?! I run at 85% in my 29g biocube, and it isn't that much flow!
I take it that the gyre puts out a lot of flow?
I ask out of surprise, and also because when my old MP10 died, I ran a korallia nano for flow for a week, and it was kinda meh flow, and my corals all browned out. About a month later with a new vortech, I was back to business and everything had colored back up again.