I am trying to fix a leak in my HOB overflow. I think it is fixed. While I was at it I changed my return line from my fuge to modular tubing. I hooked everything up and my overflow did not seem to be regaining prime. Since it was late I decided not to mess with it anymore. I was cleaning up and noticed water pooring out from under my display. My fuge was overflowing. I double checked, my return pump is off. Why is this happening???
Help me please!! I am flooding!!
- Thread starter Willie_6
- Start date
I will try to provide more info, in desperation I pulled my 2 return lines thinking that is the only way water can be getting into the sump to flood. This did not seem to help, so I unplugged everything, except one power head. It seems to have stopped, but my tank is only a little over half full. I am afraid to start anything back up at this point and my dining room has water all over it. Please help.
Here is a good pic:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/Willie_6/FishTank10.jpg
You can seet the return lines, their the whit PVC at the top of the tank. You can also kind of see my sump.
Here's another of just the sump set up:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/Willie_6/FishTank8.jpg
Another shot of the returns and HOB overflow (pictured left)):
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/Willie_6/FishTank7.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/Willie_6/FishTank10.jpg
You can seet the return lines, their the whit PVC at the top of the tank. You can also kind of see my sump.
Here's another of just the sump set up:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/Willie_6/FishTank8.jpg
Another shot of the returns and HOB overflow (pictured left)):
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/Willie_6/FishTank7.jpg
Dont know what an outflow is.
To drain 1/2 the water out of the display, again, what is the line that is in that deep? The return line? Return line is what is connected to the return pump.
You need to have siphon break holes drilled in the return lines(s) just below the surface of the display.
To drain 1/2 the water out of the display, again, what is the line that is in that deep? The return line? Return line is what is connected to the return pump.
You need to have siphon break holes drilled in the return lines(s) just below the surface of the display.
Oh this really worries me.
Here is a pic of the modification I made with the modular tubing.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/Willie_6/DSCF0033.jpg
Sorry it's not brighter, but tank lights are off. Everything else is the same and these are the only tubes that are this low. Sorry about out flow. I geuss it is the return line leading directly from the pump as opposed to my suction line coming from My HOB overflow.
Here is a pic of the modification I made with the modular tubing.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/Willie_6/DSCF0033.jpg
Sorry it's not brighter, but tank lights are off. Everything else is the same and these are the only tubes that are this low. Sorry about out flow. I geuss it is the return line leading directly from the pump as opposed to my suction line coming from My HOB overflow.
I think I figured out the problem. Tell me if this makes sense. I started to plug everything in one at a time. Believe it or not it wasn't my heater. I plugged in my return pump so that it would drain my fuge a bit. I turned it off once it reached a certain level. I watched the fuge begin to rise again, I figured this is the water that was trapped in the plumbing. I noticed it wasn't stopping. So I think:
When I called it quits on trying to get my sump and overflow working there was a vaccuum left in my return line drawing water out. This time I shut the valve coming back into my fuge and the water stopped. Does this make sense?
When I called it quits on trying to get my sump and overflow working there was a vaccuum left in my return line drawing water out. This time I shut the valve coming back into my fuge and the water stopped. Does this make sense?
dchao
New member
When the return pump is stopped, water will siphon out of the main tank, through the return line, into the sump until the water level in the main tank drops below that of the return line. Your sump must have capacity to absorb this extra water.
You can reduce the volume of water siphoned back into the sump by drilling "siphon-break" holes in the return plumbing just below the water line.
Does your blue and yellow tangs get alone well?
Also I think 8 x T5's in your tank is too much. 4X should be enough, less heat and less evaporation. Don't forget, T5's with parabolic reflectors are more efficient than the wattage rating.
You can reduce the volume of water siphoned back into the sump by drilling "siphon-break" holes in the return plumbing just below the water line.
Does your blue and yellow tangs get alone well?
Also I think 8 x T5's in your tank is too much. 4X should be enough, less heat and less evaporation. Don't forget, T5's with parabolic reflectors are more efficient than the wattage rating.
Last edited:
pitt_prodigy
New member
I put a check valve on my return to prevent the backflow and keep my sump from overflowing. You can pick one up at the LFS (if they care pvc aquarium parts) for $12. Just put it on top of your return pump.... water pushes through during normal running... power shuts off the valve slams shut due to the back flow and your water stays were it belongs.... in your tank.
Dont get a check valve from HOME DEPOT or LOWES unless it is only rubber on the inside. The ones they carry typically work with a metal spring. Metal in salt tank = no good. Good luck.
Dont get a check valve from HOME DEPOT or LOWES unless it is only rubber on the inside. The ones they carry typically work with a metal spring. Metal in salt tank = no good. Good luck.
Pitt- I have 2 valves on my return line. That saved my butt big time.
dchao- Do you have a picture of these syphon break holes? There has to be more to it, then just drilling holes, otherwise water would spray out while the pump is in operation. I am very interested in doing this.
As for the lights. You are the first to say I have too much light. It's about 6 watts per gallon. I wanted to be able to keep most corals, so i made sure I bought some descent lightes. As for heat it is a concern, but not with my T5's. They produce very little heat. They are all enclosed and have 2 bulit in fans. I actually chose these because I have heat problems in the summer and the LFS suggested I go this route versus 2 Aqua Medi pendants. Are you familiar with Orbit fixtures? I only ask because, I am not sure if I have the reflector you are talking about.
As for my Tangs....uggghh...Tang Police. JK They actually get along great. I know 75 is questionable for 2 tangs. They are actually the reason I added a sump...yes I know that does not add room for them to swim, but it does add volume to handle bioload. It actually brings my tank up to 100 gal total. My Yellow is pretty much the dominant one in the tank, although my Coral Beauty will take turns from time to time. My blue really does not mess with anyone. Very timid. Nobody messes with her either. Prett much, it's my clownfish that gets picked on-by picked on I mean they might try to nip at him once and then they swim away. NEVER anything that would have me worried about his welfare. I have been very lucky in this regard.
dchao- Do you have a picture of these syphon break holes? There has to be more to it, then just drilling holes, otherwise water would spray out while the pump is in operation. I am very interested in doing this.
As for the lights. You are the first to say I have too much light. It's about 6 watts per gallon. I wanted to be able to keep most corals, so i made sure I bought some descent lightes. As for heat it is a concern, but not with my T5's. They produce very little heat. They are all enclosed and have 2 bulit in fans. I actually chose these because I have heat problems in the summer and the LFS suggested I go this route versus 2 Aqua Medi pendants. Are you familiar with Orbit fixtures? I only ask because, I am not sure if I have the reflector you are talking about.
As for my Tangs....uggghh...Tang Police. JK They actually get along great. I know 75 is questionable for 2 tangs. They are actually the reason I added a sump...yes I know that does not add room for them to swim, but it does add volume to handle bioload. It actually brings my tank up to 100 gal total. My Yellow is pretty much the dominant one in the tank, although my Coral Beauty will take turns from time to time. My blue really does not mess with anyone. Very timid. Nobody messes with her either. Prett much, it's my clownfish that gets picked on-by picked on I mean they might try to nip at him once and then they swim away. NEVER anything that would have me worried about his welfare. I have been very lucky in this regard.
reverendmaynard
New member
No, theres nothing more to it than drilling holes. They don't need to be very big, I think I used a 3/32" drill bit. You want them to be 1/4" or so BELOW the normal waterline. Water comes out of them but not enough to be a problem, and you don't notice it because it's below the waterline. I drilled mine at a slight angle so they kind of point down. This way, when the pump is turned back on, and they are exposed, water won't spray out of the tank. Make more than 1, in case 1 gets clogged by a snail or debris. Sorry, no good pictures.
reverendmaynard
New member
Not unless you have a microbubble problem. Do you normally "see" the flow from your return outlets? There might be some surface perturbation, but that's a good thing, no?
reverendmaynard
New member
Yeah, that sucks.
I was fortunate enough to find out about the siphon break holes before I built my setup and had a flood. Good thing too, because my returns extend down to the bottom of the tank, with the nozzels coming up out of the sand.
