Help me select an RO/DI system please!

[CLJ94104]

Hello,

I have narrowed my search down to two contenders for an RO/DI system for my home. They are the BRS 75gpd Plus 5 stage RO/DI system and the AquaFx 100gpd Platinum Barracuda RO/DI system. Which would you suggest and why?

I have a whole house water softener system installed as well, a RainSoft EC5 that will be filtering all my water before it even hits the RO/DI system.

All input is appreciated. Thanks in advance!


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[Scrubber_steve]

Whats your TDS before & after it goes through the water softener?

 

[CLJ94104]

Whats your TDS before & after it goes through the water softener?

Unfortunately, I have no idea.


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[Scrubber_steve]

Well then, the first thing to buy is a hand held TDS meter

 

[alton]

Both are great companies, my Barracuda system is 15+ years old and right now filled with BRS filters and resin. Several questions you need to get answers for before ordering either system;
1. Chloramines or just Chlorine and how much
2. Your water pressure, why buy a booster pump if it is not needed
In my case my total and free chlorine is 3 to 4 ppm and contains Chloramines which if not removed 100% leads to membrane failure very quickly. After trying 3 x 10" Chloramine blaster filters with no avail I moved up to the Chloramine monster from BRS which is a 4" x 20" filter, which most RO companies sell. If you add a booster pump and your Chloramine levels are too high it may cause issues because of not enough contact time and Chloramines not being 100% removed before membrane will lead to its demise. Pool companies sell chlorine strips, just make sure to buy the one with free and total chlorine and check your local water supply to see if they or the wholesaler uses chloramines.

 

[CRJ]

BRS would be my choice, but I would get the 6 stage 150 Gal water saver.

need 50psi, as close to 77* water as you can (colder just means slower production of rodi).

if you are on well water or live in a big city, i would absolutely have the 6 stage with twin DI and twin membranes.

 

[OhsCC]

I have an old Kent Marine RO/DI but use AquaFX filters, tubing, and membrane. So basically I have a AquaFX 100 gpd system. Great system and great people. I live close to their store so I just take my unit in and they change the filters out.

I have it hooked up to my kitchen sink to with a storage tank. They made it so I have a separate valve for the DI for the saltwater.

I am about to buy a water softener from Aqua Engineering too.

 

[Scrubber_steve]

Hello,

I have narrowed my search down to two contenders for an RO/DI system for my home.

I have a whole house water softener system installed as well, a RainSoft EC5 that will be filtering all my water before it even hits the RO/DI system.

All input is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I'd be considering the RODI water to Flush water ratio, if I were you.
The ratio is typically 4 to 5 Flush water to 1 RODI water.

But, if you have a TDS level of say 35ppm at the point of entry, rather than 350ppm, why use such an extreme ratio?

Also, your whole house water softener system makes a big difference when considering the best ratio -
"Using Softened water extends membrane life. This includes naturally soft or salt softened water.
If your feed water is softened, meaning the calcium has been replaced with a non-scaling salt, you can send less water to waste.
When softening with sodium you end up with deposits that dissolve rather than scales.
So a small amount of flushing can dislodge some of the buildup, extending membrane life, while still reducing waste water."

http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com...atios-in-Residential-Reverse-Osmosis_b_8.html

 

[Bent]

You also need to check your municipal supply on the net to see if chloramines are used. This will affect what you need to get.

 

[CLJ94104]

You also need to check your municipal supply on the net to see if chloramines are used. This will affect what you need to get.

There are definitely chloramines used by the county to treat our water.


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[Scrubber_steve]

You also need to check your municipal supply on the net to see if chloramines are used. This will affect what you need to get.

That's an interesting topic.
My town supply specs are 0.04 "“ 0.08 mg/L for Monochloramine & 0.30 "“ 0.90 mg/L for Free chlorine.

I test what arrives at home with Total Chlorine test strips - 0.05 to 1.0 mg/L, & get a reading around 0.12mg/L.

To get a reading of zero I just use a single 10", solid, 0.2 micron carbon filter.