Help! More Corals are Bleaching.

[Tripod1404]

Its not bleaching, it looks more like necrosis.

Your nitrate and phosphate are way out of balance and phosphate is too low for that level of nitrate and alk. If you want to keep phosphate that low, you need to reduce nitrate below 1ppm as well and drop alk to NSW levels of 6.7-7dKH. Or a easier way would be the let phosphate go up to ~0.05ppm and keep the other to around current values. It is very stressful for corals to have one of the N, P or Alk low while others are high, or vice versa. As a rule of thumb, never make one of the components limiting or excess (making something excess makes other stuff limiting), this includes light as well.

If I were you, I would just remove GFO. There is no need for continuous use for GFO unless you have rock leaching phosphate or if there is massive algae issues.

People didnt use to have this kind of weird bleaching events before widespread use of GFO.

 

[Str8linespeed]

Also op didn't state if he had phosphates checker or phosphorus
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You quoted my post yourself in post #12. I already told you I test twice a week and with the Hanna ULR checker.

Also a reef tank with no pods. Lol. Can we really trust his judgement. If he doesn't have pods I am the queen of England
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Being I've never introduced pods, and I started with dry rock in my system over a year ago I would have no idea where they would come from. I've never visually seen any, and yes I know some would be very small and hard to see with the naked eye. All my corals are dipped prior to being introduced so if they are hanging out on the corals I would think they would be dead.

I don't think they are at 2 if Gfo is used correctly. But maybe it isn't. Maybe it stopped tumbling after a day. Maybe his test vial is dirty and giving a false reading. Op also never stated how often he tested. We are assuming he is doing everything correctly. But why are we assuming that. He also didn't state if he does water changes. Also he states he doesn't have an autotop off. Maybe he gets lazy for a couple days then tops off. This over time will cause problems.

As far as the lights. After 2 months the coral would of gotten used to the increased lights of it was simply stranger lights. And unless he went 2 years without changing his t5 I don't think that's an issue but once again we shouldn't assume


We simple don't know enough


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The GFO was still tumbling until I took it offline. I have an ATO, My test vials are clean, and rinsed with RO water after every use. I do a small water change twice a month. In this case 5 gals. I also track my readings in a spread sheet they are very consistent over the past year, and the water quality has only been improving as the system ages. You seem like you dont want to accept the fact that my phosphates are .006, no idea why.

 

[Str8linespeed]

Its not bleaching, it looks more like necrosis.

Your nitrate and phosphate are way out of balance and phosphate is too low for that level of nitrate and alk. If you want to keep phosphate that low, you need to reduce nitrate below 1ppm as well and drop alk to NSW levels of 6.7-7dKH. Or a easier way would be the let phosphate go up to ~0.05ppm and keep the other to around current values. It is very stressful for corals to have one of the N, P or Alk low while others are high, or vice versa. As a rule of thumb, never make one of the components limiting or excess (making something excess makes other stuff limiting), this includes light as well.

If I were you, I would just remove GFO. There is no need for continuous use for GFO unless you have rock leaching phosphate or if there is massive algae issues.

People didnt use to have this kind of weird bleaching events before widespread use of GFO.

Thank you for the well explained explanation!!! I'll try to find the balance and get the phosphates back up.

 

[anthonys51]

You quoted my post yourself in post #12. I already told you I test twice a week and with the Hanna ULR checker.







Being I've never introduced pods, and I started with dry rock in my system over a year ago I would have no idea where they would come from. I've never visually seen any, and yes I know some would be very small and hard to see with the naked eye. All my corals are dipped prior to being introduced so if they are hanging out on the corals I would think they would be dead.







The GFO was still tumbling until I took it offline. I have an ATO, My test vials are clean, and rinsed with RO water after every use. I do a small water change twice a month. In this case 5 gals. I also track my readings in a spread sheet they are very consistent over the past year, and the water quality has only been improving as the system ages. You seem like you dont want to accept the fact that my phosphates are .006, no idea why.

They come in on frags. Your funny

Plus Hanna makes 2 checkers. You didn't state witch one. Instead of writing a rude respond you could just answer


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[Str8linespeed]

They come in on frags. Your funny

Plus Hanna makes 2 checkers. You didn't state witch one. Instead of writing a rude respond you could just answer


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My response isnt rude, its justified by the fact that you assume Im an naive, have no idea what Im talking about, and how to test, etc... I may not have been in this hobby for that long, but that doesnt mean I dont know what Im talking about.

I've mention multiple times in this thread exactly which Hanna checker I use and how many times I test per week. Again, I use the Hanna ULR, not the phosphate checker for freshwater, but the marine checker for phosphorus.

Please tell me how pods survive a coral dip? I use the Bayer method, from what I've understood that kills all critters that could be living on the frags. This is why I believe I have no pods living in my tank and that the wrasse was eating the Weslo. Which today looks puffier in certain sections of its skeleton. Im hoping it recovers.

 

[Anemone]

[flamealert]

Kevin

 

[anthonys51]

My response isnt rude, its justified by the fact that you assume Im an naive, have no idea what Im talking about, and how to test, etc... I may not have been in this hobby for that long, but that doesnt mean I dont know what Im talking about.



I've mention multiple times in this thread exactly which Hanna checker I use and how many times I test per week. Again, I use the Hanna ULR, not the phosphate checker for freshwater, but the marine checker for phosphorus.



Please tell me how pods survive a coral dip? I use the Bayer method, from what I've understood that kills all critters that could be living on the frags. This is why I believe I have no pods living in my tank and that the wrasse was eating the Weslo. Which today looks puffier in certain sections of its skeleton. Im hoping it recovers.

Listen [emoji101] Hanna makes an ulr phosphates checker too for saltwater. [violation]

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[Lsufan]

I agree with what Tripod posted & I would definitely leave the gfo off line. I think to many people just think they are supposed to use gfo & it causes them issues. I would only use it if u actaually need to lower po4.

I see posts all the time with people saying that the nutrients are to low & they are starving the corals. In my experiences simple coraline algea is a great indicator. If someone’s nutrients are truly to low then they wouldn’t have any coraline eighther. If u have coraline growing then they more then likely have enough nutrients for your corals. In your case I don’t think it’s necessarily that your nutrients are to low, it’s that they are just way out of balance like tepid states. Although I’m not sure if nutrients is your issue, or only issue anyways.

 

[Lsufan]

The ULR is the phosphorus tester. They don’t make a ULR phosphate checker, it’s just the low range & doesn’t say ULR. Not trying to get into yalls argument, but it is what it is

 

[Str8linespeed]

Listen [emoji101] Hanna makes an ulr phosphates checker too for saltwater. [violation]

Wow!

I agree with what Tripod posted & I would definitely leave the gfo off line. I think to many people just think they are supposed to use gfo & it causes them issues. I would only use it if u actaually need to lower po4.

I see posts all the time with people saying that the nutrients are to low & they are starving the corals. In my experiences simple coraline algea is a great indicator. If someone’s nutrients are truly to low then they wouldn’t have any coraline eighther. If u have coraline growing then they more then likely have enough nutrients for your corals.

That makes total sense, I appreciate it.

 

[ReeferNoob4ever]

Just stop using GFO and you will see an improvement.

 

[rvareef]

My response isnt rude, its justified by the fact that you assume Im an naive, have no idea what Im talking about, and how to test, etc... I may not have been in this hobby for that long, but that doesnt mean I dont know what Im talking about.

I've mention multiple times in this thread exactly which Hanna checker I use and how many times I test per week. Again, I use the Hanna ULR, not the phosphate checker for freshwater, but the marine checker for phosphorus.

Please tell me how pods survive a coral dip? I use the Bayer method, from what I've understood that kills all critters that could be living on the frags. This is why I believe I have no pods living in my tank and that the wrasse was eating the Weslo. Which today looks puffier in certain sections of its skeleton. Im hoping it recovers.

Did you quarantine your rock and frags before going into the display? Bayer can kill critters living on frags, but it does not kill eggs, so multiple dippings are required if you want a podless tank. I have had numerous xmas wrasses over the years and have not had one eat a coral, I have had them pick/bite to move sandbed corals to eat the critters that live below, worms pods etc, im guessing he was hungry and seeing what was hiding under the welso. Most haliochores species dont eat corals. Do you dose ca and alk?

 

[Str8linespeed]

Did you quarantine your rock and frags before going into the display? Bayer can kill critters living on frags, but it does not kill eggs, so multiple dippings are required if you want a podless tank. I have had numerous xmas wrasses over the years and have not had one eat a coral, I have had them pick/bite to move sandbed corals to eat the critters that live below, worms pods etc, im guessing he was hungry and seeing what was hiding under the welso. Most haliochores species dont eat corals. Do you dose ca and alk?

My rock where dry rocks and cured prior to tank start up in a separate Rubbermaid bin. The frags where not quarantined, but the way I do dip is 4:1 Tankwater/Bayer with 15 min. soak in the bayer then a 15 min each rinse in 2 different containers. Im not saying Im pod free, but I've personally have never seen them in my tank.

Yes I dose CA, Alk and Mag as needed.

 

[top shelf]

My rock where dry rocks and cured prior to tank start up in a separate Rubbermaid bin. The frags where not quarantined, but the way I do dip is 4:1 Tankwater/Bayer with 15 min. soak in the bayer then a 15 min each rinse in 2 different containers. Im not saying Im pod free, but I've personally have never seen them in my tank.

Yes I dose CA, Alk and Mag as needed.

My start up was almost dead on to what yours was, I had a few lbs in a 10g that got severely neglected for about 8 months before hand of which I personally didn't see any life that survived. I have almost the exact same Bayer dip routine as well. Tank is now 8 months old and I have not personally witnessed a single pod, like you said not to say there not there but I'm not seeing them and I spend a lot of time looking at my tank day and night. Any life in there I have personally added like micro brittle stars and bristle worms. So your not alone.