Help! Sump/Tank problems

BigBlueTang

Active member
Hi,
I recently bought a tank + stand. The tank is 75 gallons, and the dimensions are 48" L x 18" Deep x 24" tall. I thought that the 40 B I bought from the Petco sale would fit. Sadly, it needs another 1/2 inch deep for it to fit. I am scared of trying to move things in my stand, because of flimsiness. Any advice?
 
I can send some pictures.. Is there really nothing I can do? I have my heart set on a 40B.. I don't really want a 20L
 
Hi,
I recently bought a tank + stand. The tank is 75 gallons, and the dimensions are 48" L x 18" Deep x 24" tall. I thought that the 40 B I bought from the Petco sale would fit. Sadly, it needs another 1/2 inch deep for it to fit. I am scared of trying to move things in my stand, because of flimsiness. Any advice?

Well, you have discovered why 75 gallon tanks, and most if not all tanks with gallon sizes ending in 5: 55, 75, 125, 175, etc. are (no offense) garbage tanks for marine systems. The narrowness (and width to height) is the inherent problem with them, and this causes issues on several fronts, as well as it being hard to get a halfway decent sump under them, when using a properly designed stand.

Personally, if I had to set up this tank, I would build a custom sump that is 17.5" wide, wrangle it in, and continue to march, rather than downgrade to a 20L (which is going to come up.) Then use the 40 breeder at the same level as the DT, set up as a refugium should properly be set up, plumbed to the common sump. Actually though, I would have skipped the 75 and gone for the 120. The 120/40 breeder seem to have been made for each other, aside from custom sumps.

A word of advice however. I see in your signature that you are planning on using "live" sand. There is nothing live about this product, it is nothing but wet aragonite, and the only thing in it aside from water will be anaerobic bacteria, which are the wrong type of bacteria to get your cycle started. The aerobic bacteria for the "cycle" do not survive the packaging and shelf time. It is snake oil, just like every so called cycling aid on the market. Plan on 1 - 2 months to break in your system (cycle is not really the right terminology) whether you use the snake oil or not. I advise you to save your money, and buy dry aragonite sand. The bacteria are ubiquitous and are everywhere EXCEPT inside that bag of wet sand, or bottled cycling aid...
 
Well, you have discovered why 75 gallon tanks, and most if not all tanks with gallon sizes ending in 5: 55, 75, 125, 175, etc. are (no offense) garbage tanks for marine systems. The narrowness (and width to height) is the inherent problem with them, and this causes issues on several fronts, as well as it being hard to get a halfway decent sump under them, when using a properly designed stand.

Personally, if I had to set up this tank, I would build a custom sump that is 17.5" wide, wrangle it in, and continue to march, rather than downgrade to a 20L (which is going to come up.) Then use the 40 breeder at the same level as the DT, set up as a refugium should properly be set up, plumbed to the common sump. Actually though, I would have skipped the 75 and gone for the 120. The 120/40 breeder seem to have been made for each other, aside from custom sumps.

A word of advice however. I see in your signature that you are planning on using "live" sand. There is nothing live about this product, it is nothing but wet aragonite, and the only thing in it aside from water will be anaerobic bacteria, which are the wrong type of bacteria to get your cycle started. The aerobic bacteria for the "cycle" do not survive the packaging and shelf time. It is snake oil, just like every so called cycling aid on the market. Plan on 1 - 2 months to break in your system (cycle is not really the right terminology) whether you use the snake oil or not. I advise you to save your money, and buy dry aragonite sand. The bacteria are ubiquitous and are everywhere EXCEPT inside that bag of wet sand, or bottled cycling aid...

Thanks for the advice! I wish I had seen this, 3 months earlier. Is there really no way to modify my stand to incorporate the 40b?
 
Is there really no way to modify my stand to incorporate the 40b?

Seems like there is one of these threads started every week.

There is always a way. The question is, is it worth it?

Just like remodeling a house, it takes more skill than building new. Not trying to put you down, but the fact you ask leads me to believe you don't have the skills.

The quickest and cheapest solution is to use a smaller sump. Almost tied with that would be a sump next to the stand. Then all you need to do is figure out how to hide it. Cruising the Ikea catalog would probably do the trick.

Next would be building a new stand yourself. Take a look at the 'Rocket Engineer' thread for ideas.

Lastly you can always hire a stand builder. Cost the most but think of it as spurring the economy! :bounce3:
 
Seems like there is one of these threads started every week.

There is always a way. The question is, is it worth it?

Just like remodeling a house, it takes more skill than building new. Not trying to put you down, but the fact you ask leads me to believe you don't have the skills.

The quickest and cheapest solution is to use a smaller sump. Almost tied with that would be a sump next to the stand. Then all you need to do is figure out how to hide it. Cruising the Ikea catalog would probably do the trick.

Next would be building a new stand yourself. Take a look at the 'Rocket Engineer' thread for ideas.

Lastly you can always hire a stand builder. Cost the most but think of it as spurring the economy! :bounce3:

You are 100% right. I do not have the skills. The Ikea idea is good, but what kind of thing should I use for hiding the sump?
Also, how much would an average stand builder cost?
I have my heart set on a 40B, but maybe a 20L
 
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