HELP! Tank Dying Slowly

[Bacchus_fl]

Hello Everybody!

I have been having a constant struggle with my tank since re-setting it up over a year ago. I have tried everything I know to get it on track but nothing has worked. I recently gave in and called the LFS and they came and did a litany of test and said they were just as confused.

Below is a list of my equipment and current parameters. I have also attached a couple pics under white lights so that they will show up on my iphone camera and to show just how bad my corals are looking. All fish are happy but I did lose my starfish and sea cucumbers.

Equipment:
180G display
40G sump
3x SOLBlu LEDs
300G euro reef skimmer
Apex controller
Dart reeflo return
Vortech MP40 x 2

Current Parameters:
Salinity 1.025
Alk 9.8
Calc 400
Mag 1300
Strontium 0-3
Potassium 430
Iodide .08
Iron 0
Nitrate 40-60
Phospates .03-.5
Temp 78

Phosphates register 0 on my salifert kit but was approx .5 on red seas kit
Nitrates register between 25-50 on salifert and approx 60 on red sea

Dosing:
Currently using all BRS additives using a 1.1ml dosers every 30 min over 24 hrs
Fresh carbon every 3 mo
Added NPX Bioplastics to fluidized reactor about 3 weeks ago to try to bring down nitrates and take looks worse since doing so. (Tried using vodka as a carbon source for a couple weeks and again tank looked worse while doing so)

Next steps:
Currently not running Ferric Oxid since PO4 has not been an issue but will be adding back today.

Will be doing a FURAN-2 treatment on all affected corals today to try to rule out a bacterial infection.

Also ordered Cuprisorb and will add to ensure that there isn't a heavy metal issue.

I am willing to pay if there are any services somebody can suggest or if you are willing and capable of figuring this out for me. Would really like another set of eyes, hands, and brains to help me figure this out!

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Bacchus_fl]

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[Bacchus_fl]

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[Bacchus_fl]

I should also mention that I do a 50G water change every two weeks. Have used both reef crystals and now Kent reef salts. RO/DI TDS of 0-4


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[plyle02]

First thing I would do is cut the whites on leds for now and run only straight blues. Next, look at discontinuing the use of ANY additives except those to maintain minerals. I would prepare 20% water change and displace current water. Check for stray voltage, and or any rust that may be leaching into the tank. Post water change, I would locate and find space to add chaeto on an opposite cycle to your main lighting. I would look to the sump and find space, as the chaeto does an excellent job of bringing down N&P, linear, as to not find yourself out of nutrient balance(redfield ratio). I have run so many systems at this point that I cannot explain all of them, but whenever I had any issues, I simply shut everything down and went to basic berlin style, just rock and skimmer. Once you see a rebound, then you can slowly bring GFO back online as well as carbon. If nitrates are high, fix them by finding where you may be accumulating detritus, and check the skimmer for performance. Try to break down the sump and clean the skimmer, any reactors or pumps, and use a wet vac to remove all water and detritus from sump. Once you have a clean sump, then add all cleaned components back online. This would be a perfect time to schedule a 20% water change. Get back to basics, and build confidence from there. I know, I have been there many times, it will get better, just be patient. Cheers

 

[plyle02]

Just saw your update about water changes... I am not a big fan of RC myself, but doubt that it is causing your problems. I have never been a fan of running alk any higher than 8 myself, so maybe consider a salt that is mixing in lower values that mimic NSW values. Just another thought

 

[Bacchus_fl]

Thank perry!

I will shut off the whites and vacuum out the sumo today.

I clean pumps and skimmer regularly. I have t seen any rust anywhere but I will check again. I also use a grounding probe so stray voltage shouldn't be the problem.

I know you are busy but I would be more than happy to compensate you for your time if you could come over to help me figure this out.

I'm ready to just shut it down and go FOWLR.


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[aquamn1999]

your nitrate between 40 and 60 is high especially since your doing 50 gallon water changes every 2 weeks.How much do you feed? how much is your bio load? do you have dead spots in your tank where detritus builds up?

 

[aquamn1999]

i have never been a fan of running alk any higher than 8 myself

+1

 

[Tenshoa]

Nitrates are WAY too high, even for softies. I am a fan of maintaining nitrates, but I prefer them in the 7-10 range. I would certainly call 20 about the max if you don't have sps. Get those lowered and you'll see your corals improve for sure. The photos are a clear indication of what they should look like when NO3 is too high.

What type of corals are you keeping and which are you noticing the worst improvement on?

I am surprised that a LFS thought that 40-60 was acceptable.

 

[Bacchus_fl]

No real detritus build up. I use a mag 7 to blow off all rocks before doing a water change once a month.

I can reduce alk but didn't think it was out of range enough to be causing this kind of damage.

I have about 12 fish. 5 decent size tangs and the rest small wrasse and assorted reef fish

I feed 1/2 of nori everyday and some pellets through auto feeder.




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[eg8r210]

I second that your nitrates are too high. Also I want to know if you mistyped your po4. It says "Phospates .03-.5". That is a huge swing and probably test or operator error. If your po4 is 0.5 then you should run GFO or Rowa.

People seem to not quite understand how biopellets work. They take a long time to seed and begin doing their job. If you are patient then they will work in time. If corals are dying then patience is tough. If you have high nitrates and phosphates then my recommendation is very large water changes. Pay your LFS to come out and do 50% or more each week for a couple weeks. This will reset your water while allowing your bacteria population increase with your carbon dosing regimen. Important, when doing very large water changes you want to match your temp and alk as closely as possible to prevent further problems with corals.

 

[Bacchus_fl]

Ok thanks guys. I agree the NO3 is too high but I can't seem to get them under control. I tried vodka dosing but within just a couple days it became worse and I was only about half the recommended dose.

I added the pellets about 3 weeks ago and I know they take awhile to work but things have looked worse since adding them.

The PO4 test was on my Salifert kits have always stayed at .03 to 0. The LFS used a Red Sea test and it registered approx .5.

I will add GFO back which I only removed 3 weeks ago in order to add the bio pellets since I only have one reactor.

I have a mixed reef and honestly everything seems to be effected to a certain degree with the exception of my clam and Carpet anemone.

Sps are the worst but even my zoas have slowly disappeared and Shrooms aren't even growing. Frustrating!!


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[rt67ghy]

I noticed you mentioned the death of your sea cucumbers. I think this may have caused your problems. When sea cucumbers die certain species can release a toxin. If this happened (there may be no way of knowing) I'd do some big WC's until things start to stabilize. Even if this didn't happen in your case, their deaths may have caused an ammonia spike which affected your corals. I would test for ammonia and nitrites and do big WC's if you find these in your water.
Can you list the types of sea cucumbers you had, their size and number?

 

[Swirlygig]

Daily water changes for sure. You can do up to 50% WC without issue daily if you wanted. This is the best way to get the nitrates in check. Sorry for your loss. We have all been there. Corals will die above 40 nitrates.

 

[fltekdiver]

Are you feeding flake food? I agree with the others. Get your NItrates down below 20ppm

Do less water volume. More frequent water changes. You could aim for 100% water change in the amount of a 10 day period, so every day you could change 18 gallons. Or 36G every 2 days , that should remove allot of the NO3.

Next you have to find the source of the NO3" heavy bio load, over feeding, lots can cause it.

With good house keeping, and basic water changes to stabilize and remove the NO3 , I wouldn't be surprised if you seen it turn around in the next few weeks

RedSea also makes NO3po4x , to help with keeping NO3 low by dosing

Anytime you have a sea cucumber die, it's good to do water changes immediately in case it released any toxins. I had one die, but I removed it early enough.

 

[1jwampler]

HELP! Tank Dying Slowly

Sounds like you have a lot of nice equipment. While probably not necessary a fast way to NO3 / PO4 reduction is a nitrate reactor. I have a GEO NR818 on my 150, I have a lot of fish, my family likes to over feed and I like corals. My nitrates kept rising and I tried biopellets, Marinepure blocks all worked but could not outpace the NO3. Nitrate reactors are not for everyone as you have to closely monitor output (every day for the 1st
30 days IMHO) and at least weekly after if not more often, but, they do allow some mistakes on feeding and housekeeping.

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[eg8r210]

Smaller more frequent WC are no where near as effective as large WC when removing nitrates. Rule of thumb is the % of water removed is equivalent to % of nitrate removed. If you have 100 gal and 50ppm nitrate and do 2 50% water change then you are "theoretically" down to 12.5ppm nitrate. If you do a series of 10% WC then you drop from 50 to 45 to 40.5 to 36.45 and on and on. I recommend you use the LFS because they can do this rapidly.

 

[bobbravo2]

Plus one on your NO3 being too high. I'd stop feeding everything except the fish, every other day. Also, 30%+ water changes over a week will help. Make sure you test salinity, temperature and alkalinity. If doing more than 30%, I'd also test/match calcium and magnesium.

 

[felps]

Is this a metal probe that's submerged in aquarium?

Thank perry!
I also use a grounding probe so stray voltage shouldn't be the problem.


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