Help with DIY 40B sump build

[E.Rude]

I've built a sump before, but the baffles were a bit too long and my siliconing was sloppy...impatience got the best of me. I'm working on a new build and want things to look cleaner than before (a lot cleaner, lol).

I've got the baffle configuration figured out, and I'm going to use 1/4" glass, cut 1/8" shorter than the internal width of the tank to allow space for silicone. Or should I have it cut 1/4" shorter?

I've looked up some threads with similar titles to this one and I'm left with a few questions:

1) How do I get the silicone b/w the narrow baffles of a bubble trap and keep it clean looking? I was thinking of putting painters tape down and then using some sort of tubing (rigid or flex?) on the tip of the silicone tube.

2) How do I keep the baffles in place after getting the silicone applied? I'm going to do one baffle at a time and let it settle for a few hours before doing the next baffle. I figured I'd just use some chunks of 4X4's and some 1" wood spacers, but if there's a better way I'd love to know.

 

[mcgyvr]

1/8" is fine assuming your dimensions are spot on.. 1/4" is fine too.
1) Thats what I did.. (I used some extra that came with my RODI).. be aware you are going to have to squeeze really hard to get it to go through.. I just taped the tubing to the end of the caulk really well and went for it..
2) I just cut some short pieces of PVC to create the spaces and just left them in there. no problems.. Then just a few pieces of tape to keep them vertical.

 

[E.Rude]

Thanks for the quick reply mcgyvr. I'm going to use black aquarium silicone that comes in the large tubes that I can use with a caulking gun. I'm hoping that makes squeezing it easier.
I watched a video on youtube and the guy used a section of a large diameter plastic hanger as tool to smooth out the silicone once the baffles were in place. I reckon I might use this technique.
It's a 40B sump going on a 200DD tank with a goal of roughly 600gph through the sump. I was thinking 1" gaps b/w baffles and b/w the bottom of the sump and the bottom of the bubble traps... sound right?

 

[mcgyvr]

Yeah that 1" gap is plenty..

and I used the regular tube of caulk too.. Its going to require some squeezing..

I hope that 600gph is flow AFTER head loss and that you aren't just using a pump rated to 600gph..

Typically recommended sump flow rate is 3 to 5 times display size per hour after head loss.

 

[4Hummer]

Here is how I held the glass in place while the silicone was drying

Only word of advice. If when your building the bubble trap, Start with the center piece

 

[scubadan206]

Personally I would have made the baffles a little wider, like 1,5 inches. If you drop stuff between them, and you will, it will be all the more difficult to retrieve them. The baffles in my 40 are 1 inch gap and acrylic. I have shaved my knuckles a few times trying to reach stuff.
Daniel. :wildone:

 

[E.Rude]

Yeah that 1" gap is plenty..

and I used the regular tube of caulk too.. Its going to require some squeezing..

I hope that 600gph is flow AFTER head loss and that you aren't just using a pump rated to 600gph..

Typically recommended sump flow rate is 3 to 5 times display size per hour after head loss.

Yes, I am using an Eheim Compact+5000 pump which is controllable b/w 660-1320gph. I am aiming at around 600gph turnover through the sump.

 

[E.Rude]

Here is how I held the glass in place while the silicone was drying

Only word of advice. If when your building the bubble trap, Start with the center piece






This looks a little more reliable to me than my original plan. I'm guessing I can get those 90*s at Home Depot?

 

[E.Rude]

Personally I would have made the baffles a little wider, like 1,5 inches. If you drop stuff between them, and you will, it will be all the more difficult to retrieve them. The baffles in my 40 are 1 inch gap and acrylic. I have shaved my knuckles a few times trying to reach stuff.
Daniel. :wildone:

I have some long tweezers if I need to get something from b/w the bubble traps.

 

[4Hummer]

Yes those 90's are from depot. Cut the corner off so you can silicon under it and not glue it to the glass

The 2x4's worked perfect for the gaps between the bubble trap and below. Also Each section of my sump is 1inch lower than the previous section. Nice flow threw the sump and no splashing

 

[E.Rude]

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[E.Rude]

Trying to post a pic from photobucket...hmmm

 

[E.Rude]

Ah, success! So the sump is a 40B and each square represents 1". First chamber will be skimmer (Skimz Oval Sk-201), second chamber is fuge (chaeto, LR rubble, and two 250w Jager heaters), final chamber is return, ATO sensors, and one MJ1200 for GFO and Calcium reactors

 

[mcgyvr]

IMO.. baffles could be higher..
When I do one I make them as tall as possible (to add the most water volume) and just ensure that when power is out the sump won't overflow.. (but it gets right to "normal aquarium" water level.

And ensure your return section is large enough that during startup (the water level will drop considerably) that you don't run the pump dry until the overflow has time to kick in

 

[RocketEngineer]

I use scrap lumber to space the baffles apart:

Since I already have the wood lying around it doesn't cost me anything. Also, I built it as shown one baffle at a time so I'm not in a rush.

With regards to the overall layout, I personally like the return in the middle so I can make the refugium 14" tall in my 16" tall tank. Gives the algae more room to grow before it needs trimming. With the layout you have, that isn't possible. Just a personal preference.

Keeping the layout you have I agree with mcgyvr that you should increase the baffle height. Whichever skimmer you pick will determine how high you can raise it off the bottom of the sump before you start hitting the top of your stand. Work down from there to set the water height as high as possible to maximize water volume. You really don't need the bubble trap after the refugium, a single baffle will do since any bubbles coming out of the skimmer should be handled by the refugium. Also, I recommend shortening the refugium to 12" so you can maximize the return volume. You want as much give in that section as possible.

 

[E.Rude]

Thanks for chiming in R.E. I'm going to raise all of the baffles 1" but because of the limited internal H of the Marineland Monterey Stands. I like the idea of making the return larger.

At the top of the sump I'm going to put four 2" glass squares (you can see the lines on the drawing) that I will clamp eggcrate to so that when the return power's off the chaeto doesn't wander to other chambers and get sucked into intakes.

 

[E.Rude]

Do you guys get the corners of the baffles beveled to accommodate the silicone of the sump tank?

 

[Yodeling]

When I built my 40 breeder sump, I had the glass shop round one of the long sides (the top side), rest were untouched. I think I used 17 3/8" wide 9" high glass except last one was 8". Done in 30 minutes.

Btw, in your design, it's not necessary to gradually decrease water height.

 

[E.Rude]

Btw, in your design, it's not necessary to gradually decrease water height.

Yeah, I'll prob make them the same H.

The glass shop I deal with has clear glass and also tinted glass. The tinted glass, which I used on the coast to coast weir on my last tank, isn't that dark but it's greyed out a bit. I don't know if it will cut down on algae growth, but I might use it just b/c I think it'll look cool.