help with led diy project

[Tonycip]

not yet I'm still finishing the 2nd unit and then I have to make a stand/storage box for all the drivers . stay tuned...

 

[guillotine]

thanks for the heads up about soldering them i am starting mine this weekend and that is something good to know. what gauge wiring did you use

 

[Tonycip]

I used 16 gauge. but thats over kill I read 18-20 would be fine.

 

[Tonycip]

Ok lets build the power station!
I needed it to hold 4 drivers and I through in a fun just for fun.

 

[Tonycip]

Ok this is the last update.. installing the leds and removing the t5's.
funny thing is right before I started one of the t5's burned out. HA!
I saved 20.00 already lol

now I have to just figure out how to program the apex for ramping them up and down ..
to the guide..

 

[kdrof]

Esquare, What is the difference of the drilled and tapped heat sinks. I saw those and just got normal. I was unsure of it being drilled would actually do since i had seen alot of people sticking them right to the bottom of the heat sink. Sorry i am kind of new to LEDs and just ordered my setup today actually..

 

[Esquare]

From what I have seen, there are 2 main ways to attach the leds to your heatsink, either drill, tap and screw them in or use a thermal epoxy.

The thermal epoxy is easiest but leaves little room for error or adjustment afterwards.

Drill and Tap will still need thermal paste (not epoxy) but allows you to unscrew them later to adjust, replace a bad led or whatever. You do want to use a nonconductive screw so you don't short out the whole thing.

 

[Esquare]

Very nice build Tony

 

[Tonycip]

Thanks I'll be doing one more for over my frag tank longer and with the drivers attached
since this one will hang higher over the tank .

 

[Esquare]

Tony, I forget if you mentioned it but how are you controlling the dimming? I just switched from my diy manual dimmers to my Apex and am not able to dim them lower then 27% at which time they flicker and go out. It's not that big of a deal, I just wonder if it's normal.

 

[cmbspd]

The thermal epoxy is easiest but leaves little room for error or adjustment afterwards.

The epoxied LEDs are still very easy to pop off with a sharp chisel - just takes a gentle tap with a hammer. I replaced several this way to change colors and haven't had any issues, even epoxying them back onto the residue from where the old ones were glued down (ie there must still be good enough contact for thermal dissipation).

 

[Esquare]

The epoxied LEDs are still very easy to pop off with a sharp chisel - just takes a gentle tap with a hammer. I replaced several this way to change colors and haven't had any issues, even epoxying them back onto the residue from where the old ones were glued down (ie there must still be good enough contact for thermal dissipation).

Are you able to reuse the led after you pop it off?

 

[cmbspd]

Are you able to reuse the led after you pop it off?

Yes, there is absolutely no damage to the led that I saw. There is some old thermal epoxy residue on the led so that it might not sit as flush on the heat sink a second time. I don't know if that will affect how efficiently heat is transferred to to the heat sink once you re-expoxy, but the re-attached leds at least work short-term (I think my "reglues" are about 3 months old now).

 

[Esquare]

I guess if it made a difference in the heat transfer you could file the back of the star down clean.

 

[Tonycip]

In order for proper heat transfer the led has to sit flat
The better the contact between the heat sink and the led the more efficient the
Heat transfer. Some people polish there heat sink to a mirror finish. to get the best contact. (overkill for what were doing but on computer overclockers its all about the heat)
Over time it may affect the longevity of the led. imo..