Herbie/Beananimal overflow question

[Capt_Cully]

I'm doing a Beananimal (3 pipe) overflow. Trying to get the dimensions for the overflow box correct. Bean's main drain and emergency drain are only 1/4 inch from the bottom of the overflow box. If I go more is that ok you think? I'd like to err on the side of caution, but I'd also like to get it pretty close to his design.

My plan is for a 12" wide x 6" tall x 4" front to back

Anyone forsee a problem with this plan?

Thanks

 

[SkiFletch]

More in which direction Cully?

 

[Capt_Cully]

Mike, more of a gap between the "floor" of the overflow box and the opening of the main drain elbow.

Beananimal runs his overlow across the entire back wall of the aquarium. Mine will be a box housing the three drains. One main, two back ups.

Does that make sense? Would this create a sucking vortex by having a larger gap?

 

[magdelan]

From what I read of his thread, he was pretty confident that with his design, a vortex could not occur.


-Quote from Beananimal's thread-

"I have had the system running for almost (2) years now, exactly as shown above. The standpipe setup currently handles close to 1,500 GPH with no vortex. For proof of concept I have pushed almost twice that through with no vortex problems. I can run the water level with the tops of the elbows slightly exposed without a vortex being created.

Here is what I attribute it to:

A) The water is shallow, but it is not a pool. The overflow box is long and narrow and processes a fairly large volume of water. The water is moving rapidly and does not allow vortex forming eddy currents to get a foothold.

B) The rounded backs of the elbows and the large surface area of the intakes help prevent the vortex from forming.

I have used 1.25" x 1" street elbows as the intakes. They are very close to glass bottom (1/4" gap).

If I am not mistaken, the traps (in this case) would not help with the siphon velocity other than adding a slight amount of friction due to the added pipe length and eddy currents that form by the friction and change of direction in the elbows. The velocity of the siphon is controlled by the ball valve on the standpipe, though it is a very forgiving adjustment. Of course, the open channel standpipe is what makes the balance possible."

 

[Capt_Cully]

I started to read it, but, the thread is over 100 PAGES. Figured its easier to ask. Not sure if the 1/4" gap is integral or if variability effects performance or hydrodynamics.

 

[Conesus_Kid]

From my understanding, the distance from the drain openings to the floor of the overflow box isn't a critical dimension. Dialing in the siphon rate correctly is what makes this method silent.

 

[Capt_Cully]

That's what I was thinking. I can see where a distance LESS than 1/4" would affect flow, but not a larger gap.

As for dialing it in, I bought a 1 1/2" gate valve for fine tuning versus relying on a more finicky ball valve.

I think I feel confident enough to draw up the overflow box and submit it for construction. To think, all this to avoid those large corner overflows..... I hope its worth it!

 

[jacksonpt]

You're talking about the full siphon drain, right? Just make sure it's not so close that it restricts flow. It's gotta be far enough from the bottom of the box to flow freely, and far enough from the water line in the box to not suck in air. Both of those are dependent on how much flow you have going through the line.

 

[SkiFletch]

Oh so you want to raise it up a little and create a larger gap between the bottom of the elbow and the bottom of the box? No problem at all. I have a 1" gap on my setup with only one problem... An astrea snail got in there once and managed to wedge itself to perfectly block the flow in the drain. Good thing I set it up with the emergency. And good thing I didn't glue the right angles in place so I could swap it out. Snail was so wedged in there he died though. Dummy.

 

[Capt_Cully]

OK, Mike et al. I can confidently roll ahead with my planned dimensions and get this build really rolling.

I was planning on utilizing Gutter Guard on the opening's of all three stand pipes to prevent critters from doing such damage. But good point about not gluing the elbow's in, just in case!!!! That could be a potential disaster.

 

[Conesus_Kid]

Just throw a single piece of gutter guard over the top of the box. That'll keep the ne'er-do-wells out of your plumbing.

 

[Capt_Cully]

Yes, planning that Scott, or even having a top made for it to blot out light and prevent algae in the box. But planning on running a toothless overflow box, with the opening closed with Gutter Guard. I've done this in all my previous tanks. Here's what I mean:

 

[SkiFletch]

Make sure you cover the top too Cully . I've got really tall teeth on my overflow and for that little bastage snail to get in there, he had to be out of the water for a while... Anyway, that's what the extra overflow is for in the first place.

Oh and btw, the extra space in my overflow turns into a wierd psuedo refugium full of algae and pods. Kinda neat

 

[block head]

my blacked out hob skimmer is extra crunchy inside. all kinds of critters. i'd lean towards keeping it open

 

[acdraindrps]

Cully,

I'm not sure what a beananimal overflow is. This is how I set up my overflow, and it's 100% silent. The trick is drilling the hole in the pvc cap just big enough to allow for the shown water level in the overflow box. I guess a gate valve could be used instead of the cap, but once I made my cap I haven't had to mess with anything and have been running the setup for 6 months. The water level in the sump will affect the head pressure on the return pump, therefore affecting the water level in the overflow box. This is the only downfall, but can be corrected with an ato.

 

[Capt_Cully]

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

 

[kelso1980]

Q about the beananimal overflow, because I'm thinking about doing one in a nano tank: do you have to have the overflow box? Is the only reason for the overflow to keep critters/fish out of the standpipes?

 

[jacksonpt]

It's also to help increase surface skimming, but you could to the elbows/drains right in the tank if you wanted to.

 

[cardiffgiant]

Mine are about 1/4", but I don't think that more space would impact performance. If you get a vortex, close the valve on the closed channel slightly.

 

[cardiffgiant]

It's also to help increase surface skimming, but you could to the elbows/drains right in the tank if you wanted to.

Technically, it's possible. I had to operate this way when I had to change over from my 75G to my 90G and was letting the overflow box cure to the 90G. The closed channel is very fast (even dialed back). It drained to the mouth of the inlet and caused a vortex that could be heard outside.