HI all- been away for a while
- Thread starter acer
- Start date
acer
New member
Ok ordering a probe tonight from BRS. LOL - well I think I remember why I gave up on this hobby ( just kidding) MY bulkhead in the hospital 45 cube has developed a drip leak. Ahhh.... *!^**.... OK think.... got it apart, but now what - on a Sunday night I doubt I can find any sealer - hmmm.. dam I cant even remember how to install a bulkhead- I know i used something on it to make sure it seals. Does the washer go on the inside of the tank between the bulkhead and the tank or the outside between the "nut" and the outside of the tank? Off to search the web....
Update: Got it fixed - I think. Had to use a razor blade to remove the sealant from both sides of the tank and use very hot water to get it off the bulkhead parts with a little elbow grease. Yep- the sealant must have dried out and allowed the bulkhead to leak. I dont think i installed this one. SO - maybe not to blame-either way crisis is over for now.
Update: Got it fixed - I think. Had to use a razor blade to remove the sealant from both sides of the tank and use very hot water to get it off the bulkhead parts with a little elbow grease. Yep- the sealant must have dried out and allowed the bulkhead to leak. I dont think i installed this one. SO - maybe not to blame-either way crisis is over for now.
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MondoBongo
Obligate Feeder Obsessed
Rubber washer always goes on the wet side of the bulkhead. Eg opposite side of the glass from the nut.
acer
New member
UPDATE: The 45 cube has been running for almost 2 weeks, the 2 small colony's of Colt doing well still and the live rock looks great.
Got the 65 reef up and running yesterday = Yeah!! Ended up purchasing a new pump (Sicci SIC-PSK1000 Skimmer Pump) for my Modified G3 skimmer which was a pain to DIY the connections as the new pump is overpowered compared to the original pump it came with or the Oceanrunner 2500OR I was using that just died. But wow is it making some great foam now. Had to DIY an air intake silencer as the new pump really draws air= noisy.
Got the Radion lights and Vortec MP 40 all hooked up with the battery backup - that was new as I had never seen that setup before. I did confirm the Radion is first gen (bummer - I was hoping for gen 2) - so for $175 I can send it back and get it upgraded to the gen 3= Worth it or not ? Since I have no livestock now - i will have to decide soon- opinions appreciated.
The return pump the setup came with is not pushing a whole lot of water. So purchased a Eheim 3000+ pump that will be here in a week.
Now it is time to figure out the AC3 I have , but never used, as my temp and PH probes arrived yesterday.
Got the 65 reef up and running yesterday = Yeah!! Ended up purchasing a new pump (Sicci SIC-PSK1000 Skimmer Pump) for my Modified G3 skimmer which was a pain to DIY the connections as the new pump is overpowered compared to the original pump it came with or the Oceanrunner 2500OR I was using that just died. But wow is it making some great foam now. Had to DIY an air intake silencer as the new pump really draws air= noisy.
Got the Radion lights and Vortec MP 40 all hooked up with the battery backup - that was new as I had never seen that setup before. I did confirm the Radion is first gen (bummer - I was hoping for gen 2) - so for $175 I can send it back and get it upgraded to the gen 3= Worth it or not ? Since I have no livestock now - i will have to decide soon- opinions appreciated.
The return pump the setup came with is not pushing a whole lot of water. So purchased a Eheim 3000+ pump that will be here in a week.
Now it is time to figure out the AC3 I have , but never used, as my temp and PH probes arrived yesterday.
acer
New member
update on 65 reef setup :
phosphorous ( Hanna checker) = 69 = .233 phosphate.
ammonia ( API kit) = between 0 and .25 ppm
Temperature holding at 78 degrees F.
Brown spots ( cant remember name - getting old LOL ) are pretty much gone and now getting some fine hair algae. Set up the LED light for Cheato and started the BRS filter with phosphate remover today.
NO room in cabinet for a top off container and the auto top off stuff - so will have to either find a cabinet or build one to put a top off container in next to the aquarium and get it set up with the AC3 unit.
will recheck the ammonia/phosphate/nitrate in a week. Hopefully the hair algae with begin to die off as well.
phosphorous ( Hanna checker) = 69 = .233 phosphate.
ammonia ( API kit) = between 0 and .25 ppm
Temperature holding at 78 degrees F.
Brown spots ( cant remember name - getting old LOL ) are pretty much gone and now getting some fine hair algae. Set up the LED light for Cheato and started the BRS filter with phosphate remover today.
NO room in cabinet for a top off container and the auto top off stuff - so will have to either find a cabinet or build one to put a top off container in next to the aquarium and get it set up with the AC3 unit.
will recheck the ammonia/phosphate/nitrate in a week. Hopefully the hair algae with begin to die off as well.
acer
New member
ok - pulled off the dying hair algae- did a quick stir/siphon on the 1 inch sand, calibrated PH probe and temp probe using the older AC3 unit I have last night.
Current water parameters:
Temp= 77.8
PH = 7.71
Alk= 180 Hanna Tester
Po4 = 4 on phosphorous Hanna tester coverts to .012 phosphate
Ammonia = 0 (Red Sea)
CA+ = ?
Nitrate= ?
Test the ca+ and nitrate today .
I am concerned the PH is low at 7.71 - any advice? Or should I not worry about it?
Current water parameters:
Temp= 77.8
PH = 7.71
Alk= 180 Hanna Tester
Po4 = 4 on phosphorous Hanna tester coverts to .012 phosphate
Ammonia = 0 (Red Sea)
CA+ = ?
Nitrate= ?
Test the ca+ and nitrate today .
I am concerned the PH is low at 7.71 - any advice? Or should I not worry about it?
acer
New member
Nitrate= 0 ( Red Sea)
Ca+ = 483 ( Hanna checker )
OK now I need some refresher for the brain- whats the difference between using the BRS Bulk Kalk powder ( calcium hydroxide) made into a solution ( 1.3 cups per gallon or RODI) and Randy's recipe#1, part 2 ( cooked baking soda 2.5 cups per gallon of Rodi) which is sodium bicarbonate? Why would I use one vs the other? I have both available.
Ca+ = 483 ( Hanna checker )
OK now I need some refresher for the brain- whats the difference between using the BRS Bulk Kalk powder ( calcium hydroxide) made into a solution ( 1.3 cups per gallon or RODI) and Randy's recipe#1, part 2 ( cooked baking soda 2.5 cups per gallon of Rodi) which is sodium bicarbonate? Why would I use one vs the other? I have both available.
acer
New member
Ok cooked up part 2 of Randy's recipe #1 = Arm & Hammer baking soda 2 .5 cups into a gallon of Rodi. Also have sodium bicarbonate powder from BRS made into a solution per their recipe. Also have Kalkwasser powder from BRS.
Tested Mg+ = 1350 ( Hanna checker)
From what I understand ( have read) the BRS sodium bicarbonate increases ALK but slightly lowers PH, the Kalk water solution increases PH and ALK. Randy's recipe increases ALK and really raises PH greatly. I am somewhat confused as I thought sodium bicarbonate IS Baking Soda.
So why does Randy's recipe raise PH greatly, but the BRS sodium Bicarbonate actually slightly lower PH?
EDIT: Ah HAAAA!! Finally found an article explaining that the cooking of the baking soda drives of the Co2 = causing increased PH.. LOL- I used to know this stuff- it is hell to get old.
Tested Mg+ = 1350 ( Hanna checker)
From what I understand ( have read) the BRS sodium bicarbonate increases ALK but slightly lowers PH, the Kalk water solution increases PH and ALK. Randy's recipe increases ALK and really raises PH greatly. I am somewhat confused as I thought sodium bicarbonate IS Baking Soda.
So why does Randy's recipe raise PH greatly, but the BRS sodium Bicarbonate actually slightly lower PH?
EDIT: Ah HAAAA!! Finally found an article explaining that the cooking of the baking soda drives of the Co2 = causing increased PH.. LOL- I used to know this stuff- it is hell to get old.
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loui
Member
May I ask why you are adding all this stuff? Best setups I have had in the past and present I do nothing other then water changes worst setups are the ones where i was constantly tinkering around with it. I currently have a 75 gallon tank that has been running for about 1 1/2 years SPS mainly all frags from LEAR frag swap I do a 5 gallon water change every 2 weeks with instant ocean salt (IO salt will add the majority of what is needed back to the aquarium) and have never added any chemicals to it. My tank will never be tank of the month, but it looks good to me with little to no maintenance. Keep your hands out of the tank as much as possible and keep things easy. pay attention to the tank and it will tell you when something is wrong and I can almost guarantee you it won't be PH, Cal, ALK it will be a skimmer, or a pump not working right or a to big of a temperature swing that will cause most problems. just my 2 cents.
With saying this I realize that if my SPS corals do start to get to big I will have to add Cal to keep them happy, but this early in the game it is not necessary.
With saying this I realize that if my SPS corals do start to get to big I will have to add Cal to keep them happy, but this early in the game it is not necessary.
acer
New member
I agree with most of what you said, but I think my several year old reef crystals salt was lacking some decent chemistry. I am not sure what you mean by "adding all this stuff" as the only thing I ended up adding is cooked Baking soda ( Randy's recipe #1 ,park 2 ) due to the PH being too low from the initial Reef Crystal salt chemistry. Once the chemistry tests are in normal range, or at least close, I will basically leave it alone ( other than putting a bit of kalkwasser( lime) in the top off water after my corals get established and start changing the ALK and Ca+ which will probably take months) - this is not my first rodeo, but i am trying to remember some stuff so posting for some help. I am not adding a bunch of pre-manufactured chemicals, or other reef chemistry crap nor will I in the future.
I appreciate your insight and agree with it wholeheartedly. Chasing a bunch of "perfect" numbers will certainly:
1) cost a bunch of cash
2) drive you crazy because it doesn't work
3) probably do more harm than good.
Not sure you read my whole thread- so if you just read my last few posts- i can see why you posted what you did. I certainly am not going to purchase expensive livestock and put them in a tank that has a pH of 7.6 - would you?
I am also posting/created the thread because other inexperienced reef hobbyist may learn from my thread.
If you still disagree with me adding something to raise the PH a bit - let me know. I am in no way an expert and appreciate others input. That is how anyone learns- right?
I appreciate your insight and agree with it wholeheartedly. Chasing a bunch of "perfect" numbers will certainly:
1) cost a bunch of cash
2) drive you crazy because it doesn't work
3) probably do more harm than good.
Not sure you read my whole thread- so if you just read my last few posts- i can see why you posted what you did. I certainly am not going to purchase expensive livestock and put them in a tank that has a pH of 7.6 - would you?
I am also posting/created the thread because other inexperienced reef hobbyist may learn from my thread.
If you still disagree with me adding something to raise the PH a bit - let me know. I am in no way an expert and appreciate others input. That is how anyone learns- right?
MondoBongo
Obligate Feeder Obsessed
7.6 a bit lower than i would be happy with, but your alkalinity is in a good spot. 180ppm, so ~10dKh or so...
are you sure your pH test is accurate?
maybe try getting some more surface agitation in the water to help oxygenate it and release any dissolved CO2 that could be lowering your pH.
if i'm honest, i don't chase pH, nor do i even bother testing for it most of the time. i track alkalinity as my primary concern (outside of temp, salinity, and nitrates).
are you sure your pH test is accurate?
maybe try getting some more surface agitation in the water to help oxygenate it and release any dissolved CO2 that could be lowering your pH.
if i'm honest, i don't chase pH, nor do i even bother testing for it most of the time. i track alkalinity as my primary concern (outside of temp, salinity, and nitrates).
acer
New member
Yep i agree. As long as PH is above 7.8 . But at 7.6 somethings is off.
1) have lots of surface agitation - the shimmer effect is too strong and I was just looking into how to decrease shimmer effect of the LED's. I also have a great deal of air injection via the skimmer -so Co2 build up should not be an issue - unless my whole first floor of the house has high CO2 - with the front door 3 feet away from the tank I find that hard to believe.
2) Yes, recalibrated the pH probe ( 2 times) , even tested away from aquarium ( in case of electrical interference). I am going to mix some new water using the same old reef crystals ( new bag from same box) - to see if that is indeed the issue. If it tests OK as far as PH - then I have to conclude the first bag was bad. If it tests low , then I will bring it to the LFS and have them test the PH - if they test it and it is OK - then I have to conclude that the AC3 is screwed up or the brand new probe is screwed up.
I guess the calibration fluids themselves could be off? Just purchased with the new probe - so they aren't old.
I added 4 oz of the part 2 and now PH is holding at 8.1. I will retest ALK to make sure it is not off the charts.
1) have lots of surface agitation - the shimmer effect is too strong and I was just looking into how to decrease shimmer effect of the LED's. I also have a great deal of air injection via the skimmer -so Co2 build up should not be an issue - unless my whole first floor of the house has high CO2 - with the front door 3 feet away from the tank I find that hard to believe.
2) Yes, recalibrated the pH probe ( 2 times) , even tested away from aquarium ( in case of electrical interference). I am going to mix some new water using the same old reef crystals ( new bag from same box) - to see if that is indeed the issue. If it tests OK as far as PH - then I have to conclude the first bag was bad. If it tests low , then I will bring it to the LFS and have them test the PH - if they test it and it is OK - then I have to conclude that the AC3 is screwed up or the brand new probe is screwed up.
I guess the calibration fluids themselves could be off? Just purchased with the new probe - so they aren't old.
I added 4 oz of the part 2 and now PH is holding at 8.1. I will retest ALK to make sure it is not off the charts.
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loui
Member
This is just IMO, I would never say that my way of doing it is the right way. And I didn't mean to come off saying your doing everything wrong. Also I defiantly agree with water agitation with keeping the water oxygenated
I have a controller, which is the best investment I have ever made, it has a PH probe with it. I have never calibrated it, it has always been around 7.7 I have never worried about it being low the only thing I worry about is keeping it stable it has been probably been 6 months since the last time I checked it. If I see bad polyp extension then I would check it out. My biggest problem over the years has been temperature swings with a controller my temps stay between 77-79 I use LEDS so I need a heater in the winter, which the controller regulates and a fan that comes on at 79, which the controller also regulates.
The older I get the easier and more realistic I try to make things. I am not saying that trying to achieve perfect numbers is a bad thing, but 6 months from know are you really going to want to continue to make parameters perfect, I know that I would get tired of doing so. then your corals would suffer because they are not used to the declining numbers such as Cal and ALK, but would then recover over time to the newer more stable and easier to achieve numbers. Ever hear from people that give up on a tank, but keep the pumps running only to say after a year of doing nothing every thing looks the best it has ever looked. I truly believe that corals will adapt to our aquariums if given the time to do so then it is our job to keep every thing as stable as possible. I do this by allowing IO or reef crystal (or what ever salt mix you us) do all the work by adding the necessary ingredients, thus IMO is the easiest way to maintain by doing a 5 gallon water change every other week.
I am to lazy to achieve perfect numbers, plus I like to travel and I know my tank sitter won't get it right, so I guess I am doing the lazy man to reef keeping. I used to be one of those guys that used to mess around with the tanks chemistry only to end up making things worse. I guess my point to all this is I have an SPS tank that I have never added anything to and it is going pretty good and I think keep it simple approach is the reason why.
I have a controller, which is the best investment I have ever made, it has a PH probe with it. I have never calibrated it, it has always been around 7.7 I have never worried about it being low the only thing I worry about is keeping it stable it has been probably been 6 months since the last time I checked it. If I see bad polyp extension then I would check it out. My biggest problem over the years has been temperature swings with a controller my temps stay between 77-79 I use LEDS so I need a heater in the winter, which the controller regulates and a fan that comes on at 79, which the controller also regulates.
The older I get the easier and more realistic I try to make things. I am not saying that trying to achieve perfect numbers is a bad thing, but 6 months from know are you really going to want to continue to make parameters perfect, I know that I would get tired of doing so. then your corals would suffer because they are not used to the declining numbers such as Cal and ALK, but would then recover over time to the newer more stable and easier to achieve numbers. Ever hear from people that give up on a tank, but keep the pumps running only to say after a year of doing nothing every thing looks the best it has ever looked. I truly believe that corals will adapt to our aquariums if given the time to do so then it is our job to keep every thing as stable as possible. I do this by allowing IO or reef crystal (or what ever salt mix you us) do all the work by adding the necessary ingredients, thus IMO is the easiest way to maintain by doing a 5 gallon water change every other week.
I am to lazy to achieve perfect numbers, plus I like to travel and I know my tank sitter won't get it right, so I guess I am doing the lazy man to reef keeping. I used to be one of those guys that used to mess around with the tanks chemistry only to end up making things worse. I guess my point to all this is I have an SPS tank that I have never added anything to and it is going pretty good and I think keep it simple approach is the reason why.
acer
New member
NO worries . lol- I almost said " I am a lazy reefer" in my first post after your first post referring back to not chasing numbers once the tank is reasonably established. I meant what I said about learning from others and i did not take your post as a personal criticism. Good to know others in my area or even not in my area are willing to put their 2 cents in.That old adage about "2 heads are better than 1" is soooo true.
I just want to start out with decent parameters as I know that after you put in livestock you cant really mess with the system too much without making it worse. Also - as stated - I am a lazy reefer and I don't want to constantly test water parameters, put in additives, etc. My biggest concern is that I may have a whole load of reef crystals that are bad due to age or what -ever. I assume that the AC3 with the PH probe is correct after calibrations. I guess if I would not have calibrated the PH probe I would not be concerned because then you are right , as long as you don't have big changes in PH or Alk and the livestock is happy - then the best thing to do is leave well enough alone.
If the system stays above 8.0 PH - then I most definitely will not mess with it. Although I am going to mix up some new salt water and test it. If it is just fine other than low PH - then that is easily remedied with adding a small amount of cooked baking soda when doing water changes. Hopefully that is all it is and when I run out of the salt I have - then maybe the next bucket of salt wont have low PH issues.
We are on the same page- I am/was just nervous about buying livestock when the calibrated PH probe is reading 7.6 . I am at work now- will post tonight after seeing if the PH maintained around 8.0-8.1 and I will also post the new ALk number , as well as make up a 5 gallon bucket new salt mixture and test it and post that as well . I am now mostly curious as to what the actual issue is.
I just want to start out with decent parameters as I know that after you put in livestock you cant really mess with the system too much without making it worse. Also - as stated - I am a lazy reefer and I don't want to constantly test water parameters, put in additives, etc. My biggest concern is that I may have a whole load of reef crystals that are bad due to age or what -ever. I assume that the AC3 with the PH probe is correct after calibrations. I guess if I would not have calibrated the PH probe I would not be concerned because then you are right , as long as you don't have big changes in PH or Alk and the livestock is happy - then the best thing to do is leave well enough alone.
If the system stays above 8.0 PH - then I most definitely will not mess with it. Although I am going to mix up some new salt water and test it. If it is just fine other than low PH - then that is easily remedied with adding a small amount of cooked baking soda when doing water changes. Hopefully that is all it is and when I run out of the salt I have - then maybe the next bucket of salt wont have low PH issues.
We are on the same page- I am/was just nervous about buying livestock when the calibrated PH probe is reading 7.6 . I am at work now- will post tonight after seeing if the PH maintained around 8.0-8.1 and I will also post the new ALk number , as well as make up a 5 gallon bucket new salt mixture and test it and post that as well . I am now mostly curious as to what the actual issue is.
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MondoBongo
Obligate Feeder Obsessed
i will say that i've had very bad luck with the accuracy of pH probes. might be worth double checking with a chemical test, or something that was a control reagent.
i bought a pH test pen a while back that only ever seems to read 7.4, no matter what it's in, even after calibration in neutral calibration fluid.
i bought a pH test pen a while back that only ever seems to read 7.4, no matter what it's in, even after calibration in neutral calibration fluid.
acer
New member
Hence, the 2 times calibration with the AC3 and the new probe. The second calibration was away from the tank using pinpoint calibration fluids (7 and 10) as per the first calibration go around. I did check and with a tiny bit a kalk power in RODI in a glass it immediately peaked at over 10. Also , when I added the 4oz of part 2 the PH did go up pretty quickly in the tank- so I know it is reading - but not how accurately. ON the second calibration go around it read both the 7 and the 10 solutions correctly. That why I am confused- if the dam probe is working per the testing/calibration suggests. How the heck at 1.026 salinity solution is the water testing at a PH of 7.6? The only answers are the salt mixture is bad, the salinity is bad ( I did recalibrate the refractometer as well), the RODI is not working ( the TDS is 0) so the water cant have acids in it. Or my house has high CO2- which, at this point, I guess is possible.
It is a mystery- that MUST be solved -LOL.
It is a mystery- that MUST be solved -LOL.
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