Hi MTRC.. Restarting Reefing :)

Mkay RODI system is up and running!

I had the flow restrictor on the IN side of the membrane (first time, gimmie a break!) and was wondering why I was not getting any pure water :P. Fixed that, so now I've got me water!

Going to start cooking my LR, now that I have a good water source. I'm going to bring some water from my unit today, so if anyone has a TDS to test my water, that would be awesome.

On another note, Both my SEN900 and MAG18 are doing the same thing. rattling a lot. I'm hoping its just the impellers on both, as both were improperly stored w/out being cleaned up. (bad me)

I'm also looking for a few things if anyone has for sale.

1) Live Rock. Gota do a full cure/cook anyways, so Dry or wet. If you have any spare, that would be cool. Guesstimating I need about 40-50 lbs

2) Small powerheads/pumps. Just to help cook my rock in the rubbermaids. I've got 1 Working Powerhead ATM, and I think I need about 2-3 more. If you have any extras sitting around, let me know.

3) Test Kits. I tossed all of mine. if you have any kits you no longer use, or recommend a brand to buy, let me know :P
 
I wish I had seen this earlier. Was your RODI system stored with water/wet filters? I would have recommended that you sanitize the system before installing new filters...

Russ
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12937053#post12937053 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BuckeyeFS
I wish I had seen this earlier. Was your RODI system stored with water/wet filters? I would have recommended that you sanitize the system before installing new filters...

Russ
Click to expand...

I didn't run bleach through the system, but It sat in Vinegar water for awhile, and I replaced all of the tubing on the system.

I'm still having 1 problem I have not been able to solve yet. This is a brand new townhouse, and the plumbing is PEX. The Hot/Cold water cutoff valves are attached with the reinforced tubing, with no way of unscrewing from the valve. I will have to T off the threaded connection to the sink, but I have not figured out what adapters I need to purchase to do it.

Edit: to be clear, I have no 3/8 Fittings under my sink. Just 1/2 into the Bottom of the H/C on the Sink.
 
Last edited:
Thanks. Be nice to see and meet more local people. You are close to where I live as well (Nippers corner).

Hoping to get the ball rolling on a tank soon, but I keep changing my mind on what I want. :P

For a quick update, I've got a 20L filled up with DryRock cooking with a chunk of LiveRock in the Garage.

I have not got my skimmer working, but I don't think I'm going to bother with it, since I plan on going BB, so I need a bigger skimmer anyways. I'm just taking my time while the DryRock cooks. I'm guessing it will take 8-10 weeks before I can use it for a tank anyways. Once I get a tank I can figure out how much more Rock I am going to need.

Small steps, but progress either way.
 
Ok, moving forward...

I have acquired a 75 gallon tank, stand, and canopy setup, and got it put where I will be setting it up.

First challenge.... Tank is not level on the floor. The stand is VERY solid, and has a plywood base below the 2x4 supports.

Flooring is a Hardwood floor.

So with all this in mind, what does everyone suggest I do to correct the problem? Not sure shimming is the best way to do this.

Any help?


-Paul
 
How off is it? Shimming may be your best bet. C_stowers built a plywood base that he polyurethaned with a lip on it to catch any spills (and keep the floor nice). You might consider that, and make sure everything is level with that as the base that the stand sits on.
 
Part of me thinks the un-levelness is due to the hardwood that was laid down is party bowed. This is a Brand new home, so thats a possibility too.

I'm not sure how to shim it up either. I mean.. I've seen a block of shims at lowes, and that its a wedge. but knowing where to use them I don't know just yet.
 
Hey, Paul.

Sorry to hear you are having level troubles. I was pretty sure it was level in my basement, but it was sitting on carpet which would tend to level it. I took great pains to make sure it was square, but haven't checked it recently.

Have you checked the floor to see if it is level? Do you have a crawl space beneath the tank (as opposed to a concrete slab)? If so, you might be flexing the floor if you are running parallel to the joists. In that case, you could level with a 2x4 and a couple
of concrete blocks and adjustable structural supports.

Shimming might be a problem underneath the stand unless you can see a point where it is rocking and wedge some shim underneath that point. There is no good way to do it beneath the tank, though, because changing the height of the tank at any one point would push the plastic binding up above the trim height.

-Scott
 
No. 2nd Floor of my townhouse. Flooring is made of 2x4 web joists every 24" The Tank will sit over 2 joists. Its entirely possible the floor is not 100% level. but I think its due to the hardwood floor, not the building. I only have a small level (bout 8" long) and the level can change from foot too foot in front of the tank. I'm going to get a long level, pull the tank out and check the flooring out. I'm partly thinking when I add water to the tank it will level off, but going to measure a few things first, have someone stand on part of it, and check the level again, etc.

sidenote, I checked with design firm that designed my unit, and was told I could keep a 90 or 125G where I am putting this with no problem, as long as I have adequate weight dispersion on the floor, not just 4 legs transfering weight directly into the floor. so I'm ok in that dept as well.
 
ok

some progress.
i have not leveled the tank yet, but i did manage to drill 2 bulkheads tonite in the upper left corner in the back for the overflow.

drilling is easy one you get the hole started. that was the hardest part. i butchered the glass on the back starting them. good thing its the back :p

i filled it up and its sitting in the garrage atm checking for leaks..
 
Congrats on the drilling. Always wanted to try it when I had non-RR tanks, but I was too chicken. If I knew then what I know now I would have tried it, but at the time I was certain I would bust it.

I installed the bulkhead in my sump (acrylic) for my skimmer this weekend. Luckily, I didn't crack anything and it seems to be holding water... I'd really hate to have to take down the whole tank to get a busted up sump out from underneath (if ever I build a stand myself, it will include doors on both ends for easy access and getting the sump out... not sure why every stand is not built with them).
 
I know whatcha mean on the Tank Braces. Overkill for any stand made with 2x4 or better generally.

Some of the reasons I like the stand are its 36" tall, so I don't need to bend over to look at it. Another is the center "Brace" is more cosmetic, and its removable to get into the sump.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13091683#post13091683 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mnemic
I know whatcha mean on the Tank Braces. Overkill for any stand made with 2x4 or better generally.

Some of the reasons I like the stand are its 36" tall, so I don't need to bend over to look at it. Another is the center "Brace" is more cosmetic, and its removable to get into the sump.
Click to expand...

I 'overbuilt' my stand at 36" as well. I'm sure it could hold a 300 gallon tank. :smokin:
I like it much better than the 30's since my tank is so short (breeder).
 
Picturegasm for you peeps.

Stand Base
75-Build-001.jpg


Canopy Closed
75-Build-002.jpg


Canopy Open
75-Build-003.jpg


Stand Open
75-Build-004.jpg


Interior of Stand
75-Build-005.jpg


30G Sump (upside down ATM rinsed it out)
75-Build-006.jpg


75 Gallon With Holes Drilled (filled to holes)
75-Build-007.jpg


Upclose image of Butchered hole
75-Build-008.jpg


Both holes up close
75-Build-009.jpg


20G Long filled with Rock Cooking in the garrage.
75-Build-010.jpg
 
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