Hi MTRC.. Restarting Reefing :)

Lookin' good :)

If it were me, I would swap out each outlet in the stand for a GFCI outlet (pull off the faceplate, and replace the innards). I'd wire them up so that one won't trip the other (wire in parallel rather than series). That would make me rest a little easier with all that in the stand with the salt spray.
 
Good idea.

Much better to have a few GFIs running inside rather then 1 point of failure at the wall.
 
Mkay, Got 1 GFCI outlet in the stand. Been a LONG time since I worked on electrical stuff, so It took me forever to make sure I did it right before I plugged it in.

I need to replace 1 more outlet in the stand and then I should be in good shape, having 2 GFCI circuits in the tank stand. The 2nd one is just difficult to get too, as I need to take the boxes out of the stand to replace them.

Still debating on drilling more holes for the CLS or not. what would you guys recommend for the CLS inlet? I'm wanting something like a 1500-1800GPH CLS using an external pump.
Would a 1" inlet be enough, or would I need to bump it upto 1.5"? I'm thinking of using multiple 3/4" outlets, thinking 4, all with 6" LocLine sections that I can direct where I need.
 
I'm not going to doing any calculations, but my gut reaction is that if you want a pump in the 1500-1800 gph range you'll need to bump up your plumbing to 1.5" (at least that would be the safe thing to do). Most pumps can handle head pressure, but are not made to deal with resistance on the inlet side of the pump.

You could go with 2 smaller inlets if that keeps you from having to put really big plumbing behind the tank where it will most certainly keep you from putting the tank closer to the wall.
 
Nice thing about this stand is I have a 6" Mechanical chase behind the tank, so thats not too much of a problem.

2 Smaller inlets is a good idea too. could do another two 1" holes, and then spread the four 3/4" outlets elsewhere in the tank.

Need to buy more bulkheads now.. lol
 
I'm not sure what c_stowers used for his -- I think 1.5". He hung his over the back of the aquarium, if I recall correctly. I don't think he drilled his aquarium at all and his flow is pretty much all closed loop.
 
Looking nice, Mnemic! I like that over-all design. Scott did a great job. :)

BTW, cheap bulkheads = glass-holes.com ;)

Brandon
 
Haven't updated in awhile.
No big progress. Mild holding pattern for this month on new stuff. Next month I'll begin plumbing and hopefully getting some more LR for the Tank.

I moved the Stand 12" to the right from where I was going to put it, and its perfectly level there. Tank will sit on 2 Trusses in the floor here, and its level, so I think I've found its place.

Some thinking I've been doing on the Build, and I'm going to spend the extra cash to get power efficient equipment. I'm trying to minimize heat into the tank. So with that, I've picked out some equipment I'm going to be using.

I've decided I'm going to go with an ATI Bubblemaster 160 Skimmer. I really like the small footprint, and everywhere has good things to say about them. Its more then I was planning on spending on the skimmer, so it will push my completion back two or three months, but I think it will be a better investment in the long run, for a respected energy efficient skimmer.

Eheim 1260 for my Return from the sump.
Undecided on CLS Pump. Need to research External Pumps. I may try the Mag18 & see how much heat it puts into the system.

Other things I need to get in the coming months still.
175W MH Electronic Ballast. I Have 1 currently, as well as 2 reflectors/mogul sockets, plus a number of various 175W bulbs to experiment with.
2x65 Watt CF Actinic bulbs

So thats that for now. :)
 
Soo ITs been awhile....

As some may recall when they last saw us at a meeting ooh, last August.... we were expecting a baby.

The build got put on hold for awhile due to some unforeseen repairs to a car. By the time I was ready to get going again, sebastian was born (Dec 15th), and well, things haven't quite been the same yet :)

Well now that things are calming down, and we are getting into a routine, I'm starting up... once again... lol

So Hi everyone, I'm back :D. Inc 75 Gallon Setup!
 
Oh man, I hope you get to finish that 75 and get it up and running. Good luck, and then the new baby can chill out watching the fish :)
 
So I had a conversation with the wife about the tank & where exactly we can put it, and I found out she is well, extremely dissatisfied with the Doors of the tank stand, and canopy, and doesn't really even want it until that is corrected... :P They were just some leftovers from the original owner, and do not match the stand & canopy, which is a Red Oak.

Now, I have not the tools, nor knowledge to begin trying to build some Doors for this thing.

I'm not sure if there is anyone who would be able to do something like this for me. I'm willing to pay for them to be made, I just don't have what it takes to do so. I can buy materials, and I can pay for time spent, I just want to get some relatively simple doors to make the tank look consistent.

So if you can help, or know someone that can, send me a PM.

<img src="http://www.wickedawesome.net/img/75_Build/75-Build-001.jpg">


<img src="http://www.wickedawesome.net/img/75_Build/75-Build-002.jpg">

-Paul
 
Sorry about the doors. They were always close enough that my wife did not mind the differences in tone and grain. The doors came from a friend's kitchen where he had them replaced because of a minor scratch or two. I also got half his touch-up stain and used that for the entire stand. I believe the doors are maple. The stand and hood are red oak from Home Depot. Also, while the doors are sealed with acryllic and the stand/hood are sealed with three coats of poly (giving it the more yellowed look).

You probably wouldn't want to drive to Knoxville to pick up any doors I might make. :) It might be possible for me to do it to my satisfaction, but not likely to someone who was not satisfied with the old doors. Plus, my joinery stinks -- it would have to be something simple with a simple router edge. What would look good on that is a raised panel (beyond my means even if I had the $100 router bit set). You can buy bare doors to stain, but you might have to look for red oak.

BTW, did I give you the stain can I used to go with that stand? If I haven't already tossed it, you are welcome to have it. I'll check the paint shelf tonight and see.
 
No worries about the doors. I think she was OK with them at first, and would fix it later, but now that its "later" and getting it going, she wants it to look nice.

I didn't get any stain with it that I can recall. If you can tell me which one it was, I maybe able to buy it, and make some doors to suit the purpose.

On another note, Decided against the ATI 160, cause of the $$, and so I'm going with an Octopus Extreme 160. Getting all of the plumbing items purchased this week, and I'll install it all this weekend hopefully.

Going with a 1500 GPH Glass-holes.com setup, and going to use the 2 existing holes as a Closed Loop inlet for a Mag18, for now.

Going to be a lot of hole drilling this weekend... weee...

2 for the overflow Box, 1 for the Sump Return, and 1 maybe 2 for the Closed Loop Return. I may go with an over the top return though. Haven't fully decided yet.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14551170#post14551170 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Runner
Sorry about the doors. They were always close enough that my wife did not mind the differences in tone and grain. The doors came from a friend's kitchen where he had them replaced because of a minor scratch or two. I also got half his touch-up stain and used that for the entire stand. I believe the doors are maple. The stand and hood are red oak from Home Depot. Also, while the doors are sealed with acryllic and the stand/hood are sealed with three coats of poly (giving it the more yellowed look).

You probably wouldn't want to drive to Knoxville to pick up any doors I might make. :) It might be possible for me to do it to my satisfaction, but not likely to someone who was not satisfied with the old doors. Plus, my joinery stinks -- it would have to be something simple with a simple router edge. What would look good on that is a raised panel (beyond my means even if I had the $100 router bit set). You can buy bare doors to stain, but you might have to look for red oak.

BTW, did I give you the stain can I used to go with that stand? If I haven't already tossed it, you are welcome to have it. I'll check the paint shelf tonight and see.
Click to expand...
 
What kind of wood is the stand made out of? I have the tools and some wood but if you want a match you need to use the same type of wood. I can do a sample of it to test.
 
Stand is made of Red Oak.

I think i'm going to use the 2 Existing holes I put on the left side for the CLS intake.

Going to put 2 more holes for the overflow in the right corner. Returns will go over the top.
 
Runner is the original creator of it, so he can confirm, but in the original add for the tank he had
I made the stand and canopy with 2x4 framing, red oak front and trim, and 3/4" red oak plywood. The electrical receptacles are mounted on the full back plate and are included with the tank (along with an SO cord and plug external to the stand). You can see the details of my fabrication at this link (since they seemed to have removed my DIY articles from Reef Central):
http://www.diyreef.org/tiki-read_ar...hp?articleId=10
Click to expand...
 
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