Hi MTRC.. Restarting Reefing :)
- Thread starter Mnemic
- Start date
:lol:
Mnemic
New member
I really like the Rock Lifts for my tank. I like the look of Rock in a reef tank going pretty high, just not around the lower 2/3 of the tank.
The way the rock is, I can see all the crap on the bottom that I need to siphon out.
I put a Koralia 3 and 4 in the tank, and while I have a mild undertoe going right now, its not as strong as I would like.
When Koralia releases the updated 3&4 models with the shaftless design, I'll prob add or replace them in the tank and use the RKE as a wavemaker on short intervals. I get my RKE tomorrow, and I'm going to see how well they will work on prob 10 & 15 min intervals for wavemaking.
The way the rock is, I can see all the crap on the bottom that I need to siphon out.
I put a Koralia 3 and 4 in the tank, and while I have a mild undertoe going right now, its not as strong as I would like.
When Koralia releases the updated 3&4 models with the shaftless design, I'll prob add or replace them in the tank and use the RKE as a wavemaker on short intervals. I get my RKE tomorrow, and I'm going to see how well they will work on prob 10 & 15 min intervals for wavemaking.
poolkeeper1
New member
Hate to disappoint but, Koralia don't work on any kind of timers for very long If they do at all. They will make all kinds of noise every time they start, a kinda clicking noise as they tend to start backwards most of the time. the end result will be a burned out pump in a short period of time or the shaft will break. I know this because It happened to one of mine when I had them on my RK2. If you set the timers at 15min intervals you may get away with It for awhile but the end result will be a damaged or broken pump.
Bill is right. Standard Koralia power heads die fast when sued on short interval timers. The motors aren't made for lots of starting and stopping. Kolalia made a DC version for that very purpose, so you could check into those, but with the RKE it does you little good. Tunze or Vortec (much more expensive) do better work with the RKE.
Mnemic
New member
Good to know.
Well I'll have to do more research. The DA forums mentioned the hydors work ok for wavemakers, which is why I got them. I'll prob just configure some sort of day and night schedule for the pumps for now. If The AC Magnums don't have a shaft, I'll spring for one of them in the next few weeks and try using it as a wave maker.
When I get closer to begin stocking the tank, I'll prob get different pumps for water circulation, maybe a proper wavemaker setup if the shaftless hydors are only DC versions.
For now, these Hydors will do the job.
Well I'll have to do more research. The DA forums mentioned the hydors work ok for wavemakers, which is why I got them. I'll prob just configure some sort of day and night schedule for the pumps for now. If The AC Magnums don't have a shaft, I'll spring for one of them in the next few weeks and try using it as a wave maker.
When I get closer to begin stocking the tank, I'll prob get different pumps for water circulation, maybe a proper wavemaker setup if the shaftless hydors are only DC versions.
For now, these Hydors will do the job.
sandalscout
New member
Very cool rock lifts! Looks great.
poolkeeper1
New member
Are the new one's any different than the low voltage models, because they only work with their controller they have odd connectors that only match up to their controller. If they are the same they won't work with the RK either! If I am not correct just let me know FWIW.
poolkeeper1
New member
So some of their pumps are now controllable with RK and others? Is this right and all will be in the future? That If true Is a smart decision on their part! Learn something new every day, Now I are not as stupid as yesterday Har Har Har.
Mnemic
New member
Its not that they are controllable, so much as they have removed the shaft, and the prop is held by something else now. I emailed PremiumAquatics today asking if they had the Magnum 5 without an impeller, and they responded it has an impeller, but is shorter then the normal (1-4) ones, so I don't know if this is an updated one or not.
I don't know the exact details, nor can I find much information on it. Brandon posted a link to a DA forum post here:
http://www.forum.digitalaquatics.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=952
that goes over the details about the new versions.
This post is from March 14th, but no new updates.
I don't know the exact details, nor can I find much information on it. Brandon posted a link to a DA forum post here:
http://www.forum.digitalaquatics.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=952
that goes over the details about the new versions.
This post is from March 14th, but no new updates.
Maybe I'm the last one to know this but I had the Hydor rep. come in to my shop today and show me one of the Koralia Magnum 7's. I have heard of theses months ago and thought to myself why the heck did they come out with these pumps. I have set up many large aquariums and the Koralia 4's work just fine. How many people have 300+gallon aquariums that would need pumps this large? The rep was showing me there unique design of the pumps. They do not have a shaft. There is a brace that holds the impeller in place. This makes it perfect for wave machines. I have put my old koralia 4's on the wave machine function and I could not stand the noise of the impeller starting up every time it cycled. You are most likley shortening the life of a koralia nano-4 by putting on a wave machine. So I got two Koralia 7's and put them on each corner of my aquarium and they work awesome. I am able to use them in three second intervals.The Koralia 7's use the same amount of wattage as the Koralia 4's.(12w) You have to put your ear up to the glass to hear them cycle. I have done many searches on this forum and didn't find any information on these so I just thought that I would share the news
Mnemic
New member
So I came home from work today, and was checking everything out, only to see that my skimmer had just stopped. It was working this morning, but not now. So I've tore it down, put it back together, and so far its working again, but I'm not sure if I should be concerned or not. I emailed PA, where I got it from for some advice on what I should do, and I'm waiting their response.
Mnemic
New member
RKE is installed and 2/3 wired up.
Got wireless bridge going, and have the equipment plugged in
I need to setup the timers, as I just turned the outlets on individualy.
Hopefully I'll get to do that tomorrow before I head to Florida until Sunday.
Still need to plug ph and temp probes in, and make the wiring look better.
Everything is sitting on a shelf for the moment except the SL1 which is in the stand.
Got wireless bridge going, and have the equipment plugged in
I need to setup the timers, as I just turned the outlets on individualy.
Hopefully I'll get to do that tomorrow before I head to Florida until Sunday.
Still need to plug ph and temp probes in, and make the wiring look better.
Everything is sitting on a shelf for the moment except the SL1 which is in the stand.
Mnemic
New member
As a connoisseur of many things electronic, from Celphones, to computers, to just about any mobile device, the RKE has disappointed me in a few ways, not in functionality but in presentation and "feel".
1) The LCD screen in mine, when viewed from either Level, or Looking down on it, has "lines" running verticaly. I seriously thought the LCD was cracked or something the first time I had it on. When viewed by looking "up" (ie, tilting the top away from you) it looks fine. I have typically only seen problems like this with cheap, and poorly made electronics.
2) I have a V2, the Head unit buttons do not have good tactile "click", and some of them, the "click" isn't even centered on the buttons. The left arrow when pressed doesn't even make the "click" unless I press the bottom part of the arrow. If I actually mounted it against something, I get the feeling that I would have difficulty using it.
3) The plastic used in all of the modules & head unit feels very cheap, and a little on the thin side. This combined with the buttons on the head unit really make the head unit feel very fragile in my hands.
So far functionally, its a great device, but for the $$ spent on these things, I kinda expected better craftsmanship of the hardware itself.
Best analogy I can think of. Its like having the powertrain of a Corvette, in the body of a beat up el-camino.
1) The LCD screen in mine, when viewed from either Level, or Looking down on it, has "lines" running verticaly. I seriously thought the LCD was cracked or something the first time I had it on. When viewed by looking "up" (ie, tilting the top away from you) it looks fine. I have typically only seen problems like this with cheap, and poorly made electronics.
2) I have a V2, the Head unit buttons do not have good tactile "click", and some of them, the "click" isn't even centered on the buttons. The left arrow when pressed doesn't even make the "click" unless I press the bottom part of the arrow. If I actually mounted it against something, I get the feeling that I would have difficulty using it.
3) The plastic used in all of the modules & head unit feels very cheap, and a little on the thin side. This combined with the buttons on the head unit really make the head unit feel very fragile in my hands.
So far functionally, its a great device, but for the $$ spent on these things, I kinda expected better craftsmanship of the hardware itself.
Best analogy I can think of. Its like having the powertrain of a Corvette, in the body of a beat up el-camino.
Function over form my friend. the reality is this keypad is better than the V1, so I was happy. V1 had cap-sense buttons that has issues. I did not get the feeling of the plastic being cheap and thin, but I do understand how you would want it to feel "harder" . I like the ever so slight flex; if I accidentally screw it down too far I don't just immediately snap the tabs.
My buttons give feedback to me, a little snap an pressure I can feel. I would call DA and talk to Brian. He's really nice and will help you determine if you have an issue with the buttons and with the LCD. The number is 425-527-0995 and press 2 for support.
