High TDS
- Thread starter jterrell
- Start date
HighlandReefer
Team RC
Sometimes a cheap fix would be to add another DI filter after your first.
Assuming your RO membrane is seated properly, not all RO membranes are the same. Some have a rejection rate of around 90%, while the more expensive may have a rejection rate of around 98%.
Proper water pressure on the membrane is important.
Assuming your RO membrane is seated properly, not all RO membranes are the same. Some have a rejection rate of around 90%, while the more expensive may have a rejection rate of around 98%.
Proper water pressure on the membrane is important.
30 tds coming out of the membrane, while larger DI will certainly resolve short term but you will be going through it quite fast. 10" cartridges are only going to last around 100g or less.
Like others mentioned be sure to get the best rejection rate membrane possible. Even just a few % rejection rate points can save significantly in DI resin costs. For well water, you may need a booster pump to get the rejection rate higher as well. Especially if yours is lower than 50psi.
Like others mentioned be sure to get the best rejection rate membrane possible. Even just a few % rejection rate points can save significantly in DI resin costs. For well water, you may need a booster pump to get the rejection rate higher as well. Especially if yours is lower than 50psi.
Last edited:
HighlandReefer
Team RC
I'm wondering if setting up a dual RO membrane wouldn't be cheaper. I would assume you would have to run the water through the first RO membrane into a container. Then pump at enough pressure through a second membrane followed by a DI filter. This might involve another pressure holding tank smaller than the one used on your house. This is just a thought and I am not certain about the details in making this work.
HighlandReefer
Team RC
I have run a series of carbon/sediment filters using as low as a 1 micron filter, without much effect on my TDS. These filters will remove the particles from the water, but not many of the ions. Carbon filters are great for removing chlorine and chloramine. Chlorine and chloramine are hard on RO filters.
Measure for me the pH and Alk of the RO effluent water and I can tell you how much CO2 there is and how fast the DI is depleting from CO2.
I'm on well water and my TDS out of the tap is about 750. After RO/DI I still get 30 TDS.
That can't be if the unit is new. If the unit is older, then the DI is depleted. How long has this unit been running ?
As a side note I was at the local Kinetico company and told them I needed 0 TDS and the guy actually laughed at me!
The they are idiots :lol:
What about using a series of inline filters just before the RO unit? Something like a .2 micron filter
Cliff is correct. They cannot remove ions of any kind, they take out sediments
and then a carbon block.
They will take out some things like iron and heavy metals
I'm on well water and my TDS out of the tap is about 750. After RO/DI I still get 30 TDS.
That can't be if the unit is new. If the unit is older, then the DI is depleted. How long has this unit been running ?
As a side note I was at the local Kinetico company and told them I needed 0 TDS and the guy actually laughed at me!
The they are idiots :lol:
What about using a series of inline filters just before the RO unit? Something like a .2 micron filter
Cliff is correct. They cannot remove ions of any kind, they take out sediments
and then a carbon block.
They will take out some things like iron and heavy metals
Well, there is something very wrong with the way it is set up or put together. You cannot get those numbers of TDS on a RO or DI that new. The water must be blowing buy somewhere. More than likely you damaged the RO membrane when you put it it.
Call Jim and tell him I said he will fix you up
http://www.thefilterguys.biz/
Call Jim and tell him I said he will fix you up
http://www.thefilterguys.biz/
