Higher Calcium Level for SPS Growth? (vs Health)

[Wally.B]

Wally,
are you feeding any coral food in your sps tank?

That is a very good and timely question.

As you know if you read my thread from the beginning, and what the Algae Wars movie is all about. I got into a lot of GHA & Cyano trouble when I started feeding my SPS corals in the past.

Yes, part of my reasons was the overdose of Red Lighting too. Prehaps that would have never happened without the Red lights (I'll never know).

However since my Red lights are no longer there, and also I have added a Algae Scrubber, I have been open to start feeding my SPS corals, with Extreme Caution and Close Monitoring. I am more interested in increasing my Lighting (which I reduced with new Frags) and raising corals to the final resting places.

So at this point as pictures show, my tank is very stable and Algae Free, thus I have started some feeding to promote more coloration and growth (above and beyond the natural fish waste that is more than in the past, since I have added more fish). Fish Waste (poo) is the best safest food as far as I am concerned if Nitrates and Phosphates are kept in check.

So, I have started feeding Amino Acids. Specifically Acro Power which I trust based on my own experience and others feedback. It's Coral Candy. I started about 2 weeks ago (where I tried 1 capful, once a week). Last week I increased to 2 Caps a week and have noticed an positive Color and Growth response on my Monipora that is in the front of my tank. I can clearly see it with my eyes, and proof from comparison pictures.

Another product that I have started which I kind of trust is Aquaforest Vitality which is a Vitamin. I believe this product is equivalent to ZeoVit Coral Vitalizer that I've used in the past. The only downside to this product is it drives my skimmer crazy, so I have to dose into my tank, not sump.

And just last night I used AquaForest Coral Food which is a powder food similar to Reef Roids, or Coral Frenzy that I have used, and still us in my other mixed tank.

With these 3 (Amino/Vitamin/Food) products being added to my tank I am watching closely for any signs of Algae (since that was my downfall last time).

I feel I am quite safe since my Algae Scrubber is quite capable to removing any excess nutrients.

I am also dropping ZeoVit Sponge Power which supports filter feeders once a week and using Zeovit Coral Snow to assist the skimmer in water cleanup. These are not Coral foods, but nutrient export assistance products.

If things go well, and I see Polyp Extension Improvements, Growth, and Coral Coloration improvements, I will explore more since I do have other products on the shelf from the past. The next product to consider would be ZeoVit Phols Extra, and Phols Extra Special that helped with (Brightening or Darkening Colors as needed). Phols Extra is the one I noticed worked really well in the past.

However once I run out of many of these products, I don't think I'll be buying all of them. Only the proven ones. I plan on testing some in my Isolated QT/FRAG tank once I get it started again.

I will mention since this is a Coral food thing, I have started using AquaForest Probotic Salt last year. Then I switch to Tropic Maurin Pro for proper trace Elements.
Now I've decided for ($) reasons, to use AquaForest Probitic with Reef Crystals (50/50). With extra test kits, I'll be able to make sure all Micro/Macro Elements are in check.

For me the biggest change that I plan on doing is measuring my K (Potassium), which I never did before. I just got a Salifert kit a month ago. I haven't figured out how to boost my K other than water changes. But I am reading up on using KCL (Potassium Chloride, which is a powder natural Salt Alternative for human consumption).

To reconfirm. Feeding corals and dosing products is risky, but fun and exciting if you get (above natural) results.

GTAreef (Thang) always gave me advice that the best is Just Water Changes, and Fish Waste which is all he does to produce those amazing colors from his SPS.
BTW. I hear you were in the area and got some nice SPS Frags from GTAreef just like mine. Can't wait for a photo from you. Watch your lighting and acclimatize slowly.

 

[sensei]

Wally,


not sure what you mean by BTW in your response above.

my situation is a little different.
I am quarantining all frags and invertebrates in an independent qt dt (90g) with NO fish , thus I need to dose coral food or there would be no nutrients for sps corals.
I actually dose coral food 3 times per week.

every qt batch lasts 72 days to be sure no ich gets to main dt.
I am not sure if there is a need to dose amino acids or vitamins, I am just alternating between coral frenzy and reef roids powder. Coral food in powder contains protein and since aminoacids are the building blocks of proteins when the coral digest the coral food they should get the aminoacids and vitamins they need.

I do not know what is the opinion of others with dominated sps tanks?

 

[Wally.B]

Wally,
not sure what you mean by BTW in your response above.

BTW (By the way). Is that what you were referring to the acronym.

 

[Wally.B]

Wally,
my situation is a little different.
I am quarantining all frags and invertebrates in an independent qt dt (90g) with NO fish , thus I need to dose coral food or there would be no nutrients for sps corals.
I actually dose coral food 3 times per week.

every qt batch lasts 72 days to be sure no ich gets to main dt.
I am not sure if there is a need to dose amino acids or vitamins, I am just alternating between coral frenzy and reef roids powder. Coral food in powder contains protein and since aminoacids are the building blocks of proteins when the coral digest the coral food they should get the aminoacids and vitamins they need.

I do not know what is the opinion of others with dominated sps tanks?

Interesting. That is a similar concern I have in my QT/FRAG tank. I do have plans to hook it up to my SPS Display tank so it get's the same nutrients.

But right now my QT is a real QT for treatment so not hooked up.
Also hooking up will be a location/plumbing challenge.

So like you I would like to keep some SPS frags in there and the way I'm doing it is I'm using Water Change water from my Display tank.
What I mean is I'm doing more frequent water changes in my SPS tank that has eating and pooing fish(Weekly). So the water is pretty good, but loaded with Nutrients since it comes from the tank with fish.
It may have some stripped off micro/macro elements, but probably not much since it's week old water (roughly). Alk and Calcium and other water parameters perfectly matched to my Display tank, so this Frag/QT is ideal.
One advantage I have is the QT is only 20 Gallons, while DT is 100 Gallons. So at 10-15 Gallon water change in DT brings over a 75% water change into the QT/Frag tank (this would could normally trigger a cycle, but it doesn't since water is bio-active, and QT has some live rock, active Carbon, and a skimmer). The water change water taken from Frag tank is dumped since it is really used up.
But hey, I get double the use of my Salt Water which is cool. (Free Coral food too!)

I think this is a good way. Corals seem to be unaffected in any negative way (except when I burned them by too strong lighting, since the Two 10 Gallon Tanks making up the 20 Gallon QT/Frag Tank are much more shallow.
Plus the corals in QT can go straight to DT without any shock since it's the same water parameters. QT Fish can go into DT too with no acclimatization or shock. (Same water).

This may not answer your needs since you want to figure out Coral feeding. What I did, if you look back at my thread, is I got a big FAT Big Eatting fish from the local fish store. I put in in my Frag/QT tank and fed him. When I was finished, I took him back to the store for a credit. I got one quarter of what I paid for him, but I call that "Rent a Fish".

If you can't do that, then you need to figure out artificial nutrients. I'm not expert but Coral Frezy, Reef Roids, is a convenient nutrient. What I did (if you got back to the very beginning of this thread), is I used Reef Nutrition bottled Coral Foods (like Osyter Feat, Roti Feast). Liquid pulverized fish products. You have to keep the stuff in a fridge. It worked wonders when I fed my nutrient poor tank (nightly). Got my corals colored up from pale to bright strong colors in less than a month. There are photos of this change at the very beginning of this thread. At this post http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2500379&page=5

Here is one example photo of the color improvement (when I barely had any fish, and used the Roti Feat/Oster Feast Coral Food). Things kept getting better if you look at my thread way back.

Oh and another product I discovered last year is Polyp Lab's Polyp Booster. It triggers corals to feed. It also has I believe all the amino's too. Google it up (They have done some research and have proof it works).
I believe in this product and actually just ordered a bottle. It will probably be the only product I'll be using in my SPS tank once I've used up all my other bottles.

I hope one of these ideas helps you with your goal.
Wally

 

[sensei]

Wally,
Using main dt Water for WC of QT tank sounds like a good idea, but I am not quite there yet. my main DT is in a 600g system. Main dt is just 9 month old and I do not have enough fish to provide enough food for sps coral.

 

[Wally.B]

Wally,
Using main dt Water for WC of QT tank sounds like a good idea, but I am not quite there yet. my main DT is in a 600g system. Main dt is just 9 month old and I do not have enough fish to provide enough food for sps coral.

Good to see you are being extra Cautious with your QT, before introducing anything in DT.

So you are quite limited to Shelf Coral Foods, if you don't want to introduce a BIG Eating Fish into your QT.

Reef Roids and Coral Frenzy should be good enough.
The only thing I would consider if you want more is (Reef Nutirition OsterFeast made for SPS, and Polyp Labs Polyp Booster). If you want just pure Aminos then consider AcroPower.

All above should be use sparingly in a DT or could lead to Algae/Cyano problems. In QT, no big deal.

 

[sensei]

Wally,
At what time did you feed your corals when you were using all these products?
return pump and skimmer on or off?
if off how long?

thanks

 

[Wally.B]

I fed at night. After lights went off. That is when most SPS (actually all corals) extend their polyps to feed (under normal conditions). The Polyp Booster can trigger better feeding response.

I would dose a single capful (approx. 2ml) of Oyster Feast every night (in a 65 Gallon Tank). Nothing else.

I didn't turn down my circulation since it would help with spreading the food thru the water column. However I do understand lower circulation promotes extra polyp extension, but I wouldn't turn off Circulation in Tank to Zero.
The only time I ever turn my Tank circulation off is when Target feeding with a syringe. I do that for my Zoa's, Palys, Acans, in my other tank. But after target feeding, I still turn back on my circulation after 10 minutes.

I never turned off skimmer, but you could for a while right after feeding to improve the efficiency of food circulating through your water column. Never leave skimmer off too long. Max 1 hour.

I NEVER TURNED OFF return pump. Turning off return pump is a pain since it raises sump water and other issues like if you have sensors, heaters, or Calc,Alk dosing in sump.

In general, the food you add is no different than if you had fish making poo for nutrients. Let the system do it work consitantly and stably like a normal nutrient loaded tank.

KEEPING YOUR SYSTEM parameters STABLE is key (especially for SPS)!!

 

[Wally.B]

There is one other Food/Amino/Vitamin product that I use in case you can't get any of the above.

AquaVitro Fuel. I don't use in my SPS tank, but in my mixed tank. (twice a week, 1 small capful). I feed ReefRoids, Coral Frenzy, and Reef Chilli (weekly or every other week via Target Syringe *I use the Two Little Fishies Syringe[Great tool]).

 

[Wally.B]

FRAG MOUNTING WEEKEND (The 30 Final SPS Frags)

So the Frag Rack has been move to the Front of Tank to prepare the mounting.

Got a few more frags from GTAreef to finish the Color Combinations I want (30 Frags in all)



Newest addition on the rack is:

1) Red Dragon (Can't believe it bleached overnight like the last one, so it can't be lighting)
2) ORA Bonape Birdsnest
3) Candy Cane
4) Yellow Aussie SPS
5) Ultimate Bonsai

Yes things will be overcrowded, but I have decided to use the back of the tank since that doubles the mounting space.

I've also adjusted the power heads for some more aggressive circulation.

 

[Wally.B]

Last Close Up of Loose Frags

I'll dig up the ID Names, but took a last photo before I start Mounting.

I moved the Red Dragon to a Sump for some low light recovery. It went white but I see Flesh. It might recover. I think it was the Revive Dip. Maybe I dipped too long.

 

[sensei]

Wally,
they look good.
do you know the name of the 3rd acro from left to right in 2nd photo??

 

[Wally.B]

Wally,
they look good.
do you know the name of the 3rd acro from left to right in 2nd photo??

I'm compiling the names of all the SPS.
I'll eventually post a photo with #numbers# and name all the corals.
I want to know each one, to be sure I place properly, for lighting and circulation.

Hoping to get this information from Thang (GTAreef) since 99% of the coral frag I got from him.

 

[Wally.B]

FRAGROCK TANK (Finished) All (GTAREEF Frags) Mounted

Finally the tank is finished. Yup, I'm naming it Frag Rock since it is Frag Rock Planet from Algae Wars.

All Frags Mounted.

Quick Photo, to show layout.
Not the best photo to show to SPS colors. Need to play with Lighting for Good Camera Shot. Frags still need to acclimatize and Polyp out.

But here it is.

I was surprised that all the Frags fit into the Front, so I have plenty more room for future frags in the back.

Finally I can sit in my office and enjoy the tank, instead of working on it.

Steady as she goes. No TINKERING around this time.

Wally

 

[Wally.B]

Tank Shot - Better Lighting Photo (Seems my SLR doesn't like MH Light that much. Low White LED works Best)

And a TOP DOWN Photo.(not best quality but good reference for Future)

 

[gtareef]

Wally,
they look good.
do you know the name of the 3rd acro from left to right in 2nd photo??

No name. Got it from reef raft on an Aussie shipment.


I think you are referring to this.

http://www.coralid.ca/?portfolio=rr-aussie-pink

 

[gtareef]

1) Red Dragon (Can't believe it bleached overnight like the last one, so it can't be lighting)

Hey Wally, red dragon or deep water acro don't like to be dipped with coral rx or revive but light dip with bayer is ok.

I dip all of my corals with bayer with great success.

I will give you another red dragon to try whenever you are ready.

 

[Wally.B]

Finish Touch #1 : (Refuge / Copepod Farm)

Going through some final touch up with Tank now built.

First is I decided the Refuge will be simple. I already have the Algae Scrubber so no need for Major Lighting or Macro Algae growing.

I'm think of shutting down my 5 Gallon Copepod Farm (Known as Copepodius in Algae Wars). Just extra work.

Rather than some complicated hard to clean junk in the Refuge going SIMPLE:

- (Dead Frag for Rubble, couple of live rocks )
- (Put a Pump Filter Sponge on the Airline which should provide much area for Pods to hide in and multiply)
- 2 Snails and some small hermits
- Simple low Light LED strip above (that I use for tank Maintenance) on Timer.

- Seeded the Farm with some "Doc's Eco Matter", a blend of Cepepods
- Also will be using "Doc Eco Bites" which is Live PhotoPlankton

 

[Wally.B]

Finish Touch #2 : (Automated Glass Cleaning [Tough Reach Side of Tank] ROBOT SNAIL )

And decided to crack open the ROBOT SNAIL that I bought myself for Christmas a few years ago. But I never used it.

Was always thinking of selling it, since it won't work on the Front of my Tank (My in Wall drywall won't allow it to work)

Then I thought it would be perfect for my Right Glass Wall that is really hard to reach over my other Tank Sump. I actually never clean that glass much, and it would build up and start GHA if too long.

The Robot Snail cleans the whole side DAILY, and I thought it would be an eyesore, but not too bad.

If it doesn't work out, I'll sell it. For now it's fun automation Gizmo. (Charging now, so no idea how it will work).

 

[Wally.B]

A better Photo of Tank (Replaced Red Dragon). Potassium Levels Low (KCL Dosing) ** Lost Fairy Wrasse **

So while researching to get a replacement camera for my wife, I learned feature that my current camera's have. Especially how to use the Manual Focus Assist. This will dramatically improve my ability to shoot Closeups (still practicing).

GTAreef was nice enough to replace the Red Dragon I burned with the Revive dip. This time no dipping (just inspection) since his tank is safe.

While there I picked up two more Acros and this complete the setup.

I started using my Salifert Potassium Kit. My K+ level is quite low (300ppm) where optimal is (400ppm).

I ordered some pure KCL and found a good Potassium Dosing Calculator to bring up K. http://www.ultimatereef.net/info/calculators/potcalc.php

Must be careful. Bring K up slowly (<10ppm per day). Never go over since high Potassium can trigger Algae bloom (my favorite thing).

Also going to start maintenance on Sand Bed with Light siphoning, since I see low current is accumulating brown Algae on left.

Also my Fairy Wrasse is missing. Last I saw it in Photo was last Weds. Looked in sump, on floor around tank. Weird since I put a net over Tank.
They are jumper, so could have jumped during a shot removal of net, but then where is it.