how do I clean the bottom of a rotifer tank??

I have tried using yeast, roti-rich, other typse of non living cultures, only to find it junk up my containers. I now use only phyto and DT. Less junk/gunk to worry about, and the rotifers seem to do much better. I also use 6 1 gal containers as insurance against crashes. I'll alternate water changes to 2/3 containers at a time.
 
I have tried using yeast, roti-rich, other typse of non living cultures, only to find it junk up my containers. I now use only phyto and DT. Less junk/gunk to worry about, and the rotifers seem to do much better. I also use 6 1 gal containers as insurance against crashes. I'll alternate water changes to 2/3 containers at a time.
 
the olnly non- living thing you will have good results with ime is either the algae pastes or DT's. Yeast isn't the best option because it will muck up your cultures and it is poor nutition wise also.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12039350#post12039350 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReidiLoverLinds
the olnly non- living thing you will have good results with ime is either the algae pastes or DT's.
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ReidiLoverLinds, when using Instant Algae for your rotifers, do you add it directly to the culture, or do you add it to new saltwater and then add it to the culture? How many drops would you add to a gallon of new saltwater? Do you use the Nanno 3600?

You prefer to use Amquel Plus rather than Amquel? Why? Just curious. Thanks!
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12041512#post12041512 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by prideprops
when using Instant Algae for your rotifers, do you add it directly to the culture, or do you add it to new saltwater and then add it to the culture? How many drops would you add to a gallon of new saltwater? Do you use the Nanno 3600?
Click to expand...


I mix the IA with rotifer water and dump in..I only use enough to turn the water slightly green,Yes Nanno 3600.I usually feed the rotifers IA then about an hour later I feed the rotifers to the clownfish larvae
 
Amquel + is better because it takes care of chlorine, chroramites (sp?), binds ammonia and also it binds the nitrite as well. I think there may be a few more things it takes care of as well. Original Amquel only takes care of ammonia if i am not mistaken. Just a tip though, it will not take away the ammonia, just render it harmless. It will still be available if lets say you are trying to cycle a tank or something. It will still show up at the correct level on a test as well.
The type of paste i use is the type that www.seahorsesource.com sells. I get the nanno to feed the rots and the t. iso to enrich. My routine is as follows: Open the culture that i plan to use that day, (i rotate) and dump some into a container, i then fill another container with clean treated saltwater with a very little amount of buffer added to the gallon that i premix to replace with. I fill up about the same as i took away and add at the most 3 drops and mix the algae in with a spoon then dump it into the culture. Keep your cultures at a salinity lower than your tanks. they can handle up to a .07 difference. You do this because they reproduce at a higher rate because they are actually brackish water creatures. I keep mine at 1.016. If the difference is too great though, you risk putting them in osmotic shock. hth
 
Thanks for that info. What type of containers do you find is the easiest to use and clean? Do you use ro/di water when you're mixing fresh seawater for the cultures?
 
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Use glass, i have tried plastic and talked with other breeders and for some reason the glass just works better. I went to walmart and picked up some 1/2 gallon containers with plastic lids and numbered them so i can keep them all striaght. I drilled the top for an airline and attached some rigid airline to some tubing and viola. Happy to help. I like the ia better because it is ALOT cheaper than DT's. I just use our tap water, i live by the sea and i could go and collect water but i just mix my own and i have never had any trouble.
 
Just a thought... The best way to clean the tanks if you are using them is too scrape up the crud with a old credit card or squeegee of some sort. It will be easy to suck up with a turkey baster after you do that. Takes some extra time that way but a good way to cull and then replace with clean water.
 
seems Im not getting the culture going as I planned...although I have never used any amonia remover..could this be my problem?

I have rotifers just not as much?
 
I tried both live and cyst...I have 3 cultures going 3 gallon and 2 quart jars...just not overwelmed with rotis...they are on my glass!!
 
you need to get the live starters imo. You can also order those from Seahorse Source for like eight bucks. That way you know what you are working with is thriving. I just get a bag or two of the rots and split it evenly into the culture containers with clean sterile saltwater. Do not use tank water because if you get some copepods in there you may have a problem. Copepods are a natural predator of rotifers. I would just put in a order with seahorse source and take the advice that i have given you and start again. You must give them alot of attention to really keep them up. But that is with anything in this hobby.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12052260#post12052260 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hendersonracing
they are on my glass!!
Click to expand...

Moving in jerky sort of movements?
 
No, they move fairly smoothly, and don't usually congregate along the glass. I'm afraid your rots are contaminated with copepods. On the bright side, if you sieve out the copepod nauplii, they too are a good first larvae food. Their drawback as a first food is a slow reproductive rate that makes it difficult to get good concentrations of naupllii.
 
Not quite the same as brine nauplii, just the same life stage of copepods vs. brine shrimp. The copepod nauplii are actually smaller than the brine shrimp ones.
 
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