How do I make it?

Just make sure none of the pieces are small or light enough to go down the drain and get lodged in the works. To tell the truth, every time I've had to fix something in my tank, my hands always come back with black stuff on them. Not too sure if I'd want that stuff 'soaking' into my rocks.
 
I'm working on setting up a 120 gallon tank and I'd like to make my own rocks for it, as 200 pounds of live rock would make me broke, and my girlfriend would kill me. Seeing as I'm in no hurry to get the 120 going (I've got 2 other nano's and 2 FW tanks) I could just cure it right in the tank in my living room, hey?
 
I wouldn't cure it in your aquarium, the 'scum' that forms is as hard as the concrete itself and would probably take a jackhammer to get off.

Get some cheap sterlite or rubbermaid containers (40g - 50g size) to cure them in. They are re-usable, disposable and did I mention cheap?
 
Where do you get the oyster shell in Orlando area? Tractor Supply Co.?

Also, Do you have to skim the cure tank while using old salt water? I'm hoping to do this on the real cheap.

My 125 is stocked but my boys are cycling a 20G reef, I even drilled it for them. I also want to do a "All Aquacultered Sea Horse tank"
 
TSC is where I got my oyster shell. Around $5 for a 50 lb bag.

During the FW cure, you'll get quite a bit of surface scum. You can either hand skim it off or like I did, just stick the hose in the container , turn it on and let it overflow.

With the SW cure using old tank water, there is no real need to run a skimmer at first, but as time goes on and you start getting large diatom/algae blooms, a protein skimmer will come in handy... assuming you'll actually be 'feeding' your DIY LR like I do. This is where a cheap skimmer like one of these off eBay will come in handy:

JEBO JB2003 in-sump (this guy always seems to have the in-sump version, just scroll down until you find them)

JEBO JB180 HOT (this guy always seems to have the HOT version, just scroll down until you find them)

No need to to possibly gunk up an expensive skimmer for this. But if you're going to put it in your aquarium shortly after curing, just regular WCs during this period will/should suffice. There may be a small bloom, but probably nothing a good cleaning crew can't take care of once the rock is in your display.
 
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Just got back from TSC. I got 2 50 pound bags for $4.00 each. I already have the cement and a bunch of crushed coral. I'll try tonight if the kids don't have too much homework
 
Buddy of mine at a LFS buys large gags of rock salt and sculps the rock with big pockets of salt throughout the piece. Once the rock is set he rinses off the rock from the mold and sprays the salt out of the rocks. The salt dissolves and he really gets some cool caves, tubes and overhangs.
 
TSC is where I got my oyster shell. Around $5 for a 50 lb bag

Where/What is TSC ? Do you have any contact info for them?? I would love to try some of this out.

Thanks.

Gixx.

PS: would really love to see some pics of your DIY rock guys . . always nice to have diversity in your idea.s

PSS: What specific recipies do you use? I have heard 1/5 Cement/Oyster stuff. How much pasta do you add for your best mixes? Anyone use newspaper or cardboard for caves and whatnot? why ? whynot?

Thanks.
 
TSC is Tractor Supply Co. They carry farm supplies around this area (Florida), their website can give you the address/phone number of the one nearest to you. If you don't live in an area with a TSC, just look in the yellow pages for feed stores or farm supplies. There is sure to be one around most people's areas, even huge metro areas.

Though I have never tried newspaper or cardboard, I don't think there would be any harm, unless the paper was treated with some special chemicals (flame retardants, antifungal/bacterial, etc.) that could leech into the concrete.

A ball of newspaper partially covered with 'crete (I'll use 'crete to signify the mix, whether you use aragocrete, oystercrete or a combination, is up to you) might make an interesting cave feature or a crumpled roll snaked through the center might make a neat tunnel. The only problem I could see would be getting any stuck pieces out. With pasta, it softens and dissolves relatively quickly, and any embedded pieces would provide a high carb food source for bacteria and other critters.

As far as how much pasta to use, I really can't give you an exact amount. You don't want to use so much that it compromises the strength of your creation. In other words, it's all trial and error (the cooking analogy I mentioned earlier). BTW, you don't want to mix the pasta in your 'crete mix, as it will begin to soften and lose its shape.

For example, I will line the bottom of my sand mold with some shell pasta or rotini and drop in a layer of 'crete. On top of this layer I might place a few pieces of ziti or macaroni... possibly even make small tunnel networks by laying pieces end-to-end. Or I might lay a jumble of spaghetti or fettuccini, perhaps poking a few pieces upright in the base to make 'micro' tunnels. Then I'll plop (gotta love these scientific terms :rolleyes: ) in some more 'crete, a little more pasta, another plop, then finish it off by pressing the shells/rotini on the outside to complete the texture.
When it comes to DIY rock... your only limit is your imagination. :idea:

I hope to be getting a digital camera sometime in the future, though it's not really on my list of priorities at this time, and maybe post some progressive pics. Perhaps even start a new thread showing the step-by-step methods I use. I might even build a complete plywood/glass aquarium, stand, sump/refugium, homemade rock, fragged coral, captive bred fish, etc. ... ... in other words, a nearly 100% (or as close as I can get) DIY system.
 
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Just a quick note:
you might not want to vinegar in the curing process, that could effectively weaken the cement... not worth any small decrease in curing time

I used 4 parts oyster shell, 1 part portland, and a little less than one part water

Mix the shell and cement together before adding water to make sure it's uniform

If you don't have the luxury of a sand bed to mold and hold your mixture, I used plastic bags. rested them on crumpled paper to provide an unven form on the back of the rock. Shaped the rest how i like it. At first I wasn't happy with how unnaturally smooth the back was from resting on the plastic (though still porous), but the realized that this is to my advantage, as it won't scratch the glass it rests against, and still looks natural from the front!
 
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