How do you qt your fish or corals?

nivram

New member
I've recently loss the majority of my fish due to disease. I also know two people who recently found out they have acro eating flatworms.

So what do you do to stay disease or pest free? I'm looking for ideas since I have limited space.
 
As far as corals go, get them from trusted sources, dip the crap out of them, and never put anything "iffy" in your tank, no matter how tempting. Both times I got pests (MEN and AEFW) they came from iffy frags.

Fish wise, not a whole lot of options other than set up a QT tank. Honestly, given the size of your tank, if you plan on adding a lot of fish and coral, I would set up a fully cycled and fully functional second smaller tank and use it as an observation tank for both coral and fish. I was going to do that with my 30 until it crashed. The idea was solid though, LOL!

Coral QT is another option, but I would only do that if you were going to consider an SPS dominant tank where the majority of the livestock would be in jeopardy with one little pest.
 
A 10 gallon or 20 long will work as QT for most fish, unless your buying many at once or very large ones. Same with corals.
 
I use (2) 10 gallon tanks and perform tank swap to eliminate ich. I use prasipro in the first two tanks of the swap to eliminate parasites. Then I place in a running 20 gallon for 2 more weeks. All corals are dipped and then placed in the 20 gallon for qt for 12 weeks as I have gotten ich from a coral before. Corals and fish are never in qt at the same time.
 
Right now for fish I'm looking to do the tank transfer method (with praziquantel and chloroquine and then place in my 8gal nano for observation.

That's my plan. Of course the hard part is following thru.
 
I have been ich free for almost a year. I have a 10 gallon tank running all the time. I put new fish in there and put 1/8th of a teaspoon of chloroquine. I keep them in there for 5 days and toss in my tank.
 
Isnt 5 days too brief?
I am running Chloroquine also but I run at least the recommended 21 days or more (usually a month).
Have a powder blue now doing double the recommended 21 days on it.
 
I dip all corals with either of the many available commercial dips. My preferred is Revive followed by Bayer.

Fish ive been a little irresponsible. I dont QT, but again I might only add one fish per year since most of my fish are anywhere from 4-8 years in tanks, and im happy with 10-12 fish in my 200G tank.. My last fish infestation was over 4 years ago where i lost maybe 2 fish.
 
None of the dips mentioned will kill parasite eggs on coral...only the adults. RPS All Out should kill eggs and adults.
 
None of the dips mentioned will kill parasite eggs on coral...only the adults. RPS All Out should kill eggs and adults.

Prove it! Nothing I have read about RPS tells me it is any different than others. No anecdotal evidence to your claim of killing eggs have been found.
 
Which part? About the rest of the dips not killing eggs, or RPS being able to?

I am merely repeating what is on the back of the bottle for RPS All Out....I have never had eggs survive through this dip...has anyone else?

http://reviews.drsfostersmith.com/...ps-all-out-coral-dip-4-oz-reviews/reviews.htm

The statement about it killing eggs.

Many other threads here on RC think its a fine dip, but the egg issue has not been proven, as with all other commercially available dips.

I wish you where right. That would be a great product for this hobby.
 
Is there anything proving that it doesn't? I believe Phillip came up with this dip, correct? Same guy that made CoralRX? He used to be a member of Sustainable Reef, our non profit...imagine that he would have the "proof" you seek...

I have seen it kill visible eggs...montipora nudibranchs. It took awhile for them to rot away...I noticed another thread on here that cited them being unhatched - but still there - after four days was considered "proof" the dip does not do as advertised. (Most likely the life cycle of the egg form would be shorter than this....actually providing proof to the contrary?)
I don't consider my experience "proof" much more than any other anecdotal experiences on here. And I have LONG since given up the idea that if it is the common conception on a forum (yes, even this one) then that would be proof it's true.

I should say...this dip claims to kill eggs, and I have not seen proof otherwise. Remember, if the colonies are not transferred to another system after dipping, it would be the adults loose in the tank that would re-infect the corals. I imagine this is blamed for the dip "not working" pretty commonly...

It does really seem too good to be true, though, huh?
 
I've moved to a FOWLR setup and in the stocking process I have tried various ways to QT and maintain a disease-free tank. First I tried Hyposalinity which was a total failure. I had to go fallow for 12 weeks to get the ich out of the DT. Lesson learned. Next I used Cupramine with some success, although it's rough on tangs and gave my yellow some HLLE that he is still recovering from.

For my last 7 fish I have followed the TTM verbatim using 5 gal buckets, Prazipro on the 2nd and 4th transfer, followed by minimum 21 days observation (makes sure no flukes or other parasites/diseases) in cycled QT tanks. I have had great success with this method will stick to this procedure for all future additions.
 
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