How do you use Phosban?

Well if you are close to zero this should get you to a zero reading within a week or 2 I think. My test kit never shows a shade above 0 to me but that could be just my luck. My opinion on the product is that it works very well and with cyano being my problem from elevated phosphates it works wonders as I don't have any and my algae growth can't even be seen with a small cleanup crew. My coraline growth exploded after a couple of weeks of using this. since it had room to grow again :)
 
OK..thanks all.

couple more questions though.

if you T it off from your overflow, how can you tell when your generating the suggested 80 GPH?

As mensioned before, I am doing this to get rid of phosphates because of my algea problems (see gallery). I am testing at near 0 phosfates, but I am told that is because my algea is eating it faster than it can be realeased into the water. therefore my readings are probably not correct. make sence to you?
 
Exactly right... mine read 0 or near 0 all the time until it started dying and being eaten up then they shot up as the cyano disappeared... So you most likely are like me and will have a couple really high readings right after you suck all the cyano out or once it is about gone :)

You tell by the phosban media just barely dancing on the top... I did it for a while with the whole column dancing to about half the height of the reactor and it started pulverizing after a while.... If you have topoff water handy you can fill up a 1 gallon bucket and time it :p That is what I ended up doing to judge where to turn the valve to and and that makes the media mostly still with some small dancing on the top... maximizes surface time without crushing it.
 
Yeah, I don't really have a huge problem, I just like to know that if there are any phosphates, they will be taken care of. I also have a bunch of Chaeto in my fuge which probably helps a lot too, since it grows like crazy and I have to give it away!
I think I'll go with one for now, use a mix, and see what that does. It certainly can't hurt, and it has to be better than two filter socks just sitting there with carbon and phosguard in them!

Thanks for all the great info!
 
No problem... just finally glad I can type some info instead of read it for once :)

In my experience it is the cheapest thing that you buy that actually works for your aquairium :-D
 
OK..I keep hearing people talking about Chaeto.

It is obviously some sort of macro algea you grow in the fuge. I am thinking of turning part of my sump into a fuge for this purpase. I will research that on another web site since RC does not want us to search on theirs. Unless you pay money of course.

Where do you buy this stuff at and what kind of light does it require?
 
You can usually find it at your LFS.
Any type of full spectrum light would be fine. A good inexpensive bulb is this one Melev's I use one similar (couldn't find the exact bulb)
 
Is using phosban in a reactor much better than these other phosfate removers like Kent phosphate sponge, KNOP phosphatex marin phosphate remover and salifert phosphate killer?
 
You can use whatever media you choose in the reactor. The reactor itself is generic.

Just make sure you know the difference between the aluminum based phosphate removers and the iron-based removers. I think Randy from the chemistry forum did some analysis of these....the "general concensus" is the iron-based removers (the red/brown ones like phosban, rowaphos, etc.) are a bit safer to use than the aluminum-based, due to potential leaching of aluminum into the aquarium.

You might also want to use your new-found search function to review some of the lengthy threads on phosphate remover usage. Some people have experienced problems, others haven't. The current thinking is start slow (less than recommended dosage) and work your way up from there if necessary.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6414636#post6414636 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by examiner
You can use whatever media you choose in the reactor. The reactor itself is generic.

Just make sure you know the difference between the aluminum based phosphate removers and the iron-based removers. I think Randy from the chemistry forum did some analysis of these....the "general concensus" is the iron-based removers (the red/brown ones like phosban, rowaphos, etc.) are a bit safer to use than the aluminum-based, due to potential leaching of aluminum into the aquarium.

You might also want to use your new-found search function to review some of the lengthy threads on phosphate remover usage. Some people have experienced problems, others haven't. The current thinking is start slow (less than recommended dosage) and work your way up from there if necessary.
Click to expand...

Thanks...that is some great info. Going to go search right now and then perhaps order the reactor and some phosban
 
would I be able to use phosguard in the basket of my dead sea prism skimmer? I do'nt know what the water flow through it is, but the valve is only ~ 1/5 open to keep it from over flowing :rolleyes:
 
I would agree with starting slow. Removing the phosphate to quickly does seem stress SPS coral more then anything. I had one acro RTN just after adding the phosban. I removed half of the media and I had no further effects. All in all it is a great product, btw; I use phosban with the effluent chamber.
 
has anyone else had a problem with calcium precipitation after adding the phosban reactor? We just put one on this past weekend and I just noticed that when the auto topoff with kalk goes off, I get a "snow" like effect from the returns until the topoff stops.
 
OK...a few people on hear stated that they hooked theirs up to their overflow.

Do you have any pictures to share?

If you hooked it up to your overflow, do you need a pump for it at all. I am guessing you don't.

I really would like some pictures if anyone has some to share.

Mine is being delivered this week and I want to hook it up.

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6452761#post6452761 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Radicaljbr
OK...a few people on hear stated that they hooked theirs up to their overflow.

Do you have any pictures to share?

If you hooked it up to your overflow, do you need a pump for it at all. I am guessing you don't.

I really would like some pictures if anyone has some to share.

Mine is being delivered this week and I want to hook it up.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I don't have a picture, don't think it would come out that great due to the tight area it's in. Ours was real simple to hook up.

On advise from our lfs, we got a maxijet 1200 to power it. Our lfs stated that a smaller maxijet would probably work, but as time goes on, you need more and more power to make it work efficiently. With the larger maxijet, you turn the valve almost closed to have it work well in the beginning. As time goes on, you can open the valve wider and wider and get more use from the unit.

The reactor hangs on the outstide of our sump. One tube goes from the output of the maxijet to the reactor. The other tube goes from the reactor over to between the baffles of the sump and that's where the water comes out. As for the "snow" I mentioned, this settled down after the first day.

Also, on advise from our lfs, we put a circle of filter floss on the bottom of the reactor and one on the top, this helps to eliminate any "dust" getting into the tank. We also used only 1/2 the amount of phosban to start with. We may add the other half in a week or so.

You will need a pail when you first start up the unit. Discard the first gallon or so of water when you start it up. This water will be rusty in color and you don't want that going into your tank.

Right now ours is running great. You want the bubbles to be very slowly churning the medium....just a slow simmering, not a boil.

Good luck, and pm me if you want a picture. I'll try to see if I can get a good shot for you, but once you get it, you will see that it's self explanatory. :)

Sally
 
Loosman PM sent.

I will deffently look at this option and would still like to see others with the sraight hookup to the overflow.

A few have mentioned it in this thread
 
OK, another question on this topic - do you let this thing run continuously, or just run it for a few days at a time?
The phosphate sponge stuff I got is by Kent Marine, and it says to not use it for more than 2 days?!? I was thinking I could just set this up, and let it run, and then change the media every month or so. Maybe I need to use a different product?
I was planning on running both carbon and this phosphate sponge, or something similar.
 
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