How many filter feeders can I have in a 30 gallon tank?

[Weboh]

I currently have a Philippine feather duster. I plan on getting a bubble-tip anemone and some zoanthids. I know that they're all filter feeders and that there's a limit to how many can be in the water based on the amount of nutrients in the water.

I already do a spot-feeding of phytoplankton every 2 weeks or so for the feather duster, and would probably do so for anything else I get as well. I want to get a couple more feather dusters or coco worms, but I'm not sure how much my tank will support. Is the amount of nutrients in the water even an issue if I do spot feeding? What do you all think?

 

[Cliving1]

Your anemone is more based on lighting than filter feeding. What else is in the tank? How long has it been setup? Parameters? Zoa's are very easy to care for. No experience with coco worms. Feather deasters are relatively easy, should he able to have more than one.

 

[homer1475]

Coco-worms are doomed to die in a tank unless spot fed very well, and they still typically end up dying. Our tanks can in no way support the amount of filter feeding these creatures require long term.

They seem to do fine for a while, lose their heads(crowns), grow back smaller(indicating it's not getting enough to eat to support a huge crown), then die.

Feather dusters on the other hand, do fine with some spot feeding.

 

[TokiHacker]

Coco-worms are doomed to die in a tank unless spot fed very well, and they still typically end up dying. Our tanks can in no way support the amount of filter feeding these creatures require long term.

They seem to do fine for a while, lose their heads(crowns), grow back smaller(indicating it's not getting enough to eat to support a huge crown), then die.

Feather dusters on the other hand, do fine with some spot feeding.

I dose my coco worm with an iv machine and airline with marine snow through the night and he is still kicking 2 yrs later.

 

[Weboh]

I dose my coco worm with an iv machine and airline with marine snow through the night and he is still kicking 2 yrs later.

Eh. Way too complicated for a beginner. I didn't realize coco worms were so much harder to care for than feather dusters. The guy at my LFS told me they're about as easy to care for as feather dusters, but then, he also told me BTAs were easy to care for...

Anyway, the question still stands. I still really like feather dusters and want to get a couple more varieties.

 

[TokiHacker]

just remember. If you do go with a coco worm they have calcareous tube so making sure calcium is in the "good" is very important also.

 

[Weboh]

Your anemone is more based on lighting than filter feeding. What else is in the tank? How long has it been setup? Parameters? Zoa's are very easy to care for. No experience with coco worms. Feather deasters are relatively easy, should he able to have more than one.

I'm aware anemones need light; I have a special light bulb for when I get one. But they're also filter feeders. I know they need spot-feeding with plankton every week or so, but do they also need nutrients from the matter like feather dusters?

Yeah, I should really add my tank info to my signature. I have two percula clowns, a blue damsel, (with a clear tail and I think it's actually called something else) a sand-sifting starfish, turbo snails, (two large, one small) and the feather duster. In a week or so I'll get a blue tuxedo urchin, and a maybe a month after that a BTA. It's been set up for about three months and all the parameters are normal.

 

[Weboh]

just remember. If you do go with a coco worm they have calcareous tube so making sure calcium is in the "good" is very important also.

Right. I read about that. Another thing to turn me off of coco worms. Feather dusters are better anyway since they have bigger crowns.

 

[TokiHacker]

Right. I read about that. Another thing to turn me off of coco worms. Feather dusters are better anyway since they have bigger crowns.

personal preference.

 

[TokiHacker]

I'm aware anemones need light; I have a special light bulb for when I get one. But they're also filter feeders. I know they need spot-feeding with plankton every week or so, but do they also need nutrients from the matter like feather dusters?

Yeah, I should really add my tank info to my signature. I have two percula clowns, a blue damsel, (with a clear tail and I think it's actually called something else) a sand-sifting starfish, turbo snails, (two large, one small) and the feather duster. In a week or so I'll get a blue tuxedo urchin, and a maybe a month after that a BTA. It's been set up for about three months and all the parameters are normal.

Please don't get a BTA.... you need a good absolute minimum 6mo for a nem to be successful. Better is one year. They are really delicate creatures. As for filter feeding, yes techniquely they will catch things in the water. BUT most nutrition come from light so lighting is going to be important. What kind of light have you invested in getting? And maybe I missed it but how big is your tank?

speaking about light, zoas require special lighting also.

As for nem feeding... once a month I will give it a piece of krill... with the exception of that I don't do anything special for mine.

 

[juniorrocketdad]

Please don't get a BTA.... you need a good absolute minimum 6mo for a nem to be successful. Better is one year. They are really delicate creatures. As for filter feeding, yes techniquely they will catch things in the water. BUT most nutrition come from light so lighting is going to be important. What kind of light have you invested in getting? And maybe I missed it but how big is your tank?



speaking about light, zoas require special lighting also.



As for nem feeding... once a month I will give it a piece of krill... with the exception of that I don't do anything special for mine.

Btas really aren't delicate and if you know what you're doing you can add one after 2-3 months, if you stay on top of your parameters you should be able to control the swings enough to have a healthy bta

 

[TokiHacker]

Btas really aren't delicate and if you know what you're doing you can add one after 2-3 months, if you stay on top of your parameters you should be able to control the swings enough to have a healthy bta

personal opinion. Id prefer the nem to not get upset try to move then get stuck in a powerhead and wipe out my tank because I was being over zealous.

personal choices, but make the right ones for the creatures.

Plus, the remark of a SPECIAL BULB makes me a bit nervous on what kind of lighting the OP is planning on providing.

 

[Weboh]

Please don't get a BTA.... you need a good absolute minimum 6mo for a nem to be successful. Better is one year. They are really delicate creatures. As for filter feeding, yes technically they will catch things in the water. BUT most nutrition come from light so lighting is going to be important. What kind of light have you invested in getting? And maybe I missed it but how big is your tank?

speaking about light, zoas require special lighting also.

As for nem feeding... once a month I will give it a piece of krill... with the exception of that I don't do anything special for mine.

But do you have a reef tank that naturally has phytoplankton in the water for it to eat? And yeah, you missed it. It's a 30 gallon tank.

Btas really aren't delicate and if you know what you're doing you can add one after 2-3 months, if you stay on top of your parameters you should be able to control the swings enough to have a healthy bta

The swings have stabilized. That only took about about a month as I added Dr Tim's bacteria to speed it up. Is that 2-3 months recommendation another 2-3 months? I'd be fine with waiting if that's what it will take for it not to die, but it'd be nice to get more life in there. I know zoas are like BTAs where they're relatively easy to care for (yes, I know what relativity means in this context ). Would they be able to go in sooner, or are they just as sensitive? I'm thinking I should put the BTA in first so that the clowns have time to get used to it while they're still young.

personal opinion. Id prefer the nem to not get upset try to move then get stuck in a powerhead and wipe out my tank because I was being over zealous.

personal choices, but make the right ones for the creatures.

I don't have a powerhead but my filter provides a surprisingly decent amount of flow. The last BTA I had did move to the one place in the tank where I can't see it... I might have to rearrange.

Plus, the remark of a SPECIAL BULB makes me a bit nervous on what kind of lighting the OP is planning on providing.

It's one specifically designed for them. The box said it promotes growth of zoaxthanalle algae. CORALSUN brand, I think?

 

[TokiHacker]

But do you have a reef tank that naturally has phytoplankton in the water for it to eat? And yeah, you missed it. It's a 30 gallon tank.


The swings have stabilized. That only took about about a month as I added Dr Tim's bacteria to speed it up. Is that 2-3 months recommendation another 2-3 months? I'd be fine with waiting if that's what it will take for it not to die, but it'd be nice to get more life in there. I know zoas are like BTAs where they're relatively easy to care for (yes, I know what relativity means in this context ). Would they be able to go in sooner, or are they just as sensitive? I'm thinking I should put the BTA in first so that the clowns have time to get used to it while they're still young.

I don't have a powerhead but my filter provides a surprisingly decent amount of flow. The last BTA I had did move to the one place in the tank where I can't see it... I might have to rearrange.

It's one specifically designed for them. The box said it promotes growth of zoaxthanalle algae. CORALSUN brand, I think?

Yeah I miss things lol


anyways, personal opinion I'd wait on the BTA a few more months. Don't worry about the clowns they will be fine. It will usually be a while for them to want to host it anyways. Zoa's are def easier to keep. (relatively ) just keep in mind I think that is a t5 (not sure never personally messed with those).
I would have an experienced reefer in lighting let you know if that is going to be enough.

Also be aware zoa's usually contain palytoxins. Very dangerous if ingested or on skin when fragging etc. Just some info for you to know. Their was a thread of a guy who accidentally drank zoa water and had to go to the emergency room. Just be aware.

besides that I don't think the light is going to be enough honestly, but I am not quite sure what light it is either. Be aware BTA can get fairly large, but the 30 gallon should be sufficient. If he is moving then he doesn't like where he is at.

 

[Weboh]

Also be aware zoa's usually contain palytoxins. Very dangerous if ingested or on skin when fragging etc.

Oh totally. Very dangerous stuff. I'll wear long gloves when I stick my hands in and be very careful about starting siphons.

[offtopic] Though I wonder how fish are unaffected by it? As I understand it, basically everything in the water eventually works its way through the fish's skin through osmosis. Maybe the toxin is too large to do that? [/offtopic]

If he is moving then he doesn't like where he is at.

No, he eventually found a place he liked. Just I didn't like it. :lol:

 

[juniorrocketdad]

Post what light you are using so we can be sure, as for the time frame as to put a bta in, if you're testing frequently you should know your tank by now and you can make that call.

Since you seem inexperienced you may want to wait until things are a bit more stable but from personal experience lighting is the most important factor in keeping a bta and be prepared for them to move and split a lot.

In a year mine split into 8 and all the splits are bigger than the original, with this many there is always one on the move yet I still haven't lost a single one

 

[Weboh]

The kind of light I have is a Zoo Med Oceansun 10,000K.

I'm fine with them moving and splitting. Seeing them work will be half the fun.

 

[Weboh]

Slightly off-topic, but how would I start a siphon, say for drip-acclimation, with zoas in the tank? I can start the siphon I use to do water changes with a squeeze-pump it has bulit-in, but for my drip-siphon it's just airline tubing. I assume I wouldn't want to use my mouth to start it.

 

[juniorrocketdad]

Slightly off-topic, but how would I start a siphon, say for drip-acclimation, with zoas in the tank? I can start the siphon I use to do water changes with a squeeze-pump it has bulit-in, but for my drip-siphon it's just airline tubing. I assume I wouldn't want to use my mouth to start it.

I use my mouth, as long as you runcarbon and haven't cut zonas recently I doubt there would be a problem but tbh I haven't though of this and maybe I need a better way to start it myself

 

[Sk8r]

No, you would not. Lab stories of siphons and pipettes would curl your hair. You can use the submerge and flip one end over side method. you can do it with a pump. And don't wipe your face with a wet hand.

Why are you using a siphon for drip acclimation and of what? Fish should go into same-salinity qt; zoas need a dip and rinse, but I've never drip-acclimated a coral.