4 million.
That should help with your tan too.(Tagging along.)
Depends how youre laying them out. A good mix of 460nm, 430nm, 420nm and a 400-410nm should cover the entire actinic spectrum. Sometimes those ranges are hard to find. But try to vary the colors.
your welcome, but remember not to over power the corals. We often run too much electricity through the actinic lights because our eyes can't perseve the blue spectrum as well as the green, yellow & red. so acclimate slowly and have a dimmer attached if you can.Hey. Thanks for the helpful and insightful reply. : /
your welcome, but remember not to over power the corals. We often run too much electricity through the actinic lights because our eyes can't perseve the blue spectrum as well as the green, yellow & red. so acclimate slowly and have a dimmer attached if you can.
you're welcome. sorry I didn't pick up on the sarcasm. good luck. Tell us how it goes.Ahmed your post WAS helpful and insightful. My comment and the sarcastic : / was suppose to be posted to the snide remark about killing my corals in a day or two! Stupid IPhone!![]()
Anyways, Yes I fully understand that the visual effect is more difficult to perceive with the violets. Acclimation on my current RB's that I added is being achieved by duration of photo period until I decide on a controller.
Again, Ahmed your post WAS helpful and insightful. Thanks!
I'm doing the same. I have 3 x 400W MH and I'm adding 2 x 200W blue (450nm)/violet (410nm) to add a color.
My surface is 34" x 96". I'm still setting it up so I can't tell you how it'll look live but the color improvement is dramatic with the LEDs
below 400nm is risky. High amounts of UV would not just damage to corals but all the micro organisms that live near the surface if the water. halides tend to output a slight amount of UV anyways.That's why I combined RB 450nm with near UV 410nm
I toyed with sub 400.. 380, 360 but decided it was a little too risky