How much are you guys pushing through your AGA dual overflows

fishdoc11

fishdoc11

catch and release
Team RC
I currently push about 700gph through one on my 90 gal.
I am planning a new 120 BB SPS tank and will be using an Iwaki 40rlxt through three outlets aimed towards the three spaces in the back of the tank for my main return(~950gph according the head calc here on RC). I would like to also run my chiller/UV pump(an Eheim 1262) through a Seaswirl. I'm guessing this is going to be about 1500 - 1600 gph total(the Eheim is not listed on the head loss calc so if anyone thinks this # is off please say so). Anybody running that much and if so how loud is it? I will be making/using Durso standpipes, not the Megaflow kit.
I am debating between this and just running the chiller loop back into the sump and running a controlable stream out from between the overflows. Either option is mainly to add some random flow. I will also be using my current CL with a GenX40 through two penductors.
TIA for your comments/suggestions.
Chris
 
I am running around 2100 GPH through two Oceanic megaflows (same as AGA) using a Sequence 1000 pump. Would NEVER do it again. Horrible microbubble problems and loud as hell w/o lots of tricks. Expensive to boot (both pump purchase and recurring electricity bills and cooling costs). Closed loop all the way, instead (in fact, thats what I am changing my setup to, which of course is a pain on a running system of two years age).
 
According to the head loss calculator I'm pushing 1,036 gph through 1 overflow, so you shouldn't have a problem running 1,500 - 1,600 through two overflows.

I used to have just my Mag 9 as a return, overflow was quiet. Added the flow from my chiller pump (Quiet One 3000) back to the tank for added / random flow, and the tanks water level is now right at the top of the openings on the overflow box. Noise increased quite a bit too.

Edit: Saw above post.....I run filter socks, agree without them micro bubbles would be a nightmare.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6700694#post6700694 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by galore
I am running around 2100 GPH through two Oceanic megaflows (same as AGA) using a Sequence 1000 pump. Would NEVER do it again. Horrible microbubble problems and loud as hell w/o lots of tricks. Expensive to boot (both pump purchase and recurring electricity bills and cooling costs). Closed loop all the way, instead (in fact, thats what I am changing my setup to, which of course is a pain on a running system of two years age).
Click to expand...

I tried pushing 1200gph through the overflows and its very loud and like galore stated, microbubbles!

You are moving water so fast through the sump that trying to rid yourself of microbubbles can be tough.

You should run your UV/chiller, etc on a small closed loop or have that return back to the sump. I wouldn't do anymore then 900-1000gph because it can be loud.

I'm running a mag 9.5 on my 120BB system for the return and it is absolutely silent.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys.
I am allready pushing ~ 700gph through one overflow so I know 1400gph won't be too bad. Good point about microbubbles. I have allready planned a bubble box, a larger sump and two sets of baffles for that so I think I'm covered, maybe not.

Anyone else?

thanks, Chris
 
9.5 Mag on my 90 Megaflow. I use both holes 1" and the 3/4, 0ne to my sump and the other to my fuge. I installed Durso's and actully cut the teeth out of my megaflow. I could easily push another 300 gallons per hour thru it.. BUT, micro bubbles are a problem...
 
I push about 1700 through my 120 aga. The sumps are in my basement so I have room to disipate MBs. Consider poly padding to disipate MBs.

There is a mod you can do to aga overflows to get more water through them. That way water doesn't flow over or even worse, water doesn't hit the top and as a result never skims the surface. Use a drill bit or a file to open the teeth. Its easier then it sounds because your basically shaving the sharp part of the overflow down. I know I have a pic of when I did it. I try to post it.
 
I am a noob. I am thinking about purchasing an AGA 75 Reef ready. It has a Megaflow in it. The megaflow has 3 sets of inlets for water to flow into it. these holes are top middle and bottom. Does one risk suckin in a lot of live stock with the bottom holes and how will these holes affect a DSB. What happens if I cover these bottom holes?

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6706080#post6706080 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spivack
I am a noob. I am thinking about purchasing an AGA 75 Reef ready. It has a Megaflow in it. The megaflow has 3 sets of inlets for water to flow into it. these holes are top middle and bottom. Does one risk suckin in a lot of live stock with the bottom holes and how will these holes affect a DSB. What happens if I cover these bottom holes?

Thanks
Click to expand...
1) No
2) shouldn't effect the DSB
3) I wouldn't cover them
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6705541#post6705541 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JMBoehling
9.5 Mag on my 90 Megaflow. I use both holes 1" and the 3/4, 0ne to my sump and the other to my fuge. I installed Durso's and actully cut the teeth out of my megaflow. I could easily push another 300 gallons per hour thru it.. BUT, micro bubbles are a problem...
Click to expand...
Yeah I ran a Mag 9 on mine just fine with one pipe and no alterations to the overflow. I run an Eheim 1262 now which is about the same or a little more flow at the same head now.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6705858#post6705858 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kmagyar
I push about 1700 through my 120 aga. The sumps are in my basement so I have room to disipate MBs. Consider poly padding to disipate MBs.

There is a mod you can do to aga overflows to get more water through them. That way water doesn't flow over or even worse, water doesn't hit the top and as a result never skims the surface. Use a drill bit or a file to open the teeth. Its easier then it sounds because your basically shaving the sharp part of the overflow down. I know I have a pic of when I did it. I try to post it.
Click to expand...

I noticed during molding a lot of the "thin part" is left on these overflows compared to the one I'm using now. I had planned on using a file to shave it down even with the thick part. A drill bit would be much easier but I would be hesitant about it going where I don't want it too. Any pointers/pics you might have to keep from cutting too much out would be aprechiated. Does the drill bit just stop cutting when it gets to the thicker section? I did notice I can take out both of the notches for the returns on each side of each overflow and probably get a little more flow that way also.
 
Chris, This is the best pic I have. The drill bit works better because its easier to not screw it up. Just use it like a drill bit.

All Glass had a good idea when they went to mega flow. They just didnt follow through and make the drain holes larger. What the heck were they thinking?! In my opinion the bigest advancement in the hobby within the past few years has got to be an appreciation for more and more flow. All they had to do was get bigger bits and fittings.

The 3 intake levels (I have an olskool 120 that only has 2, top and bottom) is that if you get sponge growth or even algae growth in between the walls, you loose flow through the lower levels, thus forcing the water over the top teeth only.

oflow.JPG
 
I used Concept3's method (Yo Merv...;) ). Worked unbelievably well. Break out the dremmel and start grinding away. Very easy to control and no mistakes. Use the bit he has in his pic. I run a MAK4 thourgh it with oversized pipes, but like merv says, 1200 will be no problem. btw, I use the return for a drain (dual drain) as well. Definately, its loud...with that much flow, its difficult keeping it quite.
 
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