How much light needed for bubble tip anenome?

so i finally went ahead and got an rbta.. it moved around for a couple of hours and then settled between a rock and the back of the tank in a 'cave' - there is some rockwork above that cannot be moved. when it reaches out it is partly in direct light from 2 tubes and part shaded from the other 2. has been there for a week now and the spinecheek anenomefish has taken up residence. should i be concerned about it being part in shade, or can i assume if it 'wanted' more light that it would move some place else?
thanks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7397138#post7397138 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Craig Lambert
I also question the feeding discussed in the article. That topic has been a challenge for me. Fenner's book says overfeeding is very bad for the animal, and that one feeding per week is more than sufficient. I've had a rbta for a couple of months and still feel in the dark about a feeding regiment. I've been feeding once a week thus far.

IME, not feeding an anemone is a good way to kill it or have it merely 'survive.' We always talk about wanting our animals to thrive, but some seem too content with just allowing their anemones to 'survive.' In other species (not E. quadricolor), I have noted that a combination of reasonable lighting (most don't NEED the lighting many recommend, but they will do well in it also) and good feeding. In fact, the combination is by far more beneficial than one or the other alone. I can assure you that if you feed your anemone regularly while it is under good lighting, it will do much better for you and will even engage in natural behaviors (i.e. spawning and non-stress induced reproduction).
 
Aphiron, I dont feed any of my anemones directly, and see great growth.


I think we're much better off just feeding the tank heavy, and letting the anemones catch what they can. Just run a big skimmer.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8050162#post8050162 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
Aphiron, I dont feed any of my anemones directly, and see great growth.


I think we're much better off just feeding the tank heavy, and letting the anemones catch what they can. Just run a big skimmer.

I am sure you will see growth (and potentially plenty of it) if the tank itself is fed well. I just feel that it can be of even greater benefit to an anemone if fed directly (often) as well.
 
i prefer to feed minimally (still battling aiptasia) and to keep fish tip top.. have a big skimmer (turboflotor 1000)...
so to sum up, i dont need to worry too much about it being partly shaded and i should feed directly about every week or so a small bit of fish/ mysis shrimp etc etc? what size morsel?
(my lfs said once a month was enough..)
 
Giorgiboy, a TF1000 is NOT a big skimmer for that tank, in fact its undersized. (its a 4" by 20" skimmer)

Just to be clear, I run a tank half the size of yours, and run a skimmer about 4 times the volume as yours. I feed roughly 4-5 cubes of food per feeding, and sometimes feed 3 to 4 times a day. So my anemone gets plenty of food from my regular feedings, so I may not be a good example here.


As long as its getting a good amount of food, I wouldnt worry about it being somewhat shaded.
 
IMHO, a direct feed once a week isn't really enough. I would target at LEAST 2-3 times per week (I feed mine every other day). I would target anywhere from a quarter of an inch (more or less, depending upon the size of the anemone). In general, smaller pieces have a greater surface area and are easier to digest. Meaty foods like silversides and krill seem to work well. Mysis is ok when you are feeding your fish, but I wouldn't consider it a staple.
 
OK maybe I need to look at upgrading the skimmer? This is what the 'blurb' says
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Aqua Medic Turboflotor Multi SL External 1000ltr
Aqua Medic Turbofloator Multi SL Motor Driven External Protein Skimmer 500-1000ltr.

The Turboflotor Multi SL is our most versatile protein skimmer. It can be fixed to the side of the aquarium ('hang-on' mode), or placed inside or outside the sump of the filter. Its compact size makes it small enough to be stored under the cabinet. In the 'hang-on' mode, only the pump is placed inside the aquarium.

The pump Ocean Runner PH 2500, 37 W, features a venturi with the patented Aqua Medic needle wheel.
------------------------------------------------------------
It is a hang on and I have been running it for about 4 years now producing thick black liquor... Is this really not up to the job?
what alternatives would people recommend (tank is 425 litres).
 
giorgiboy, I'd do a little reading on this site: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/btafdgfaqs.htm and check out all the links at the top for other info on BTA's.

You're getting alot of differing opinions about light and feeding so far in this thread, but there are a few different variables involved, besides just the "amount" of light or food.

Bascially.... your BTA needs energy one way or the other. It gets its energy from two different sources: its zooxanthellae and from direct feedings.

The zooxanthellae are the photosynthetic creatures that live inside the BTA and give it its color. They need light to live and to in turn give energy to the BTA, which is why the suggestion of strong lighting for the BTA.

Direct feedings can also give energy to the BTA: silversides, mysis shrimp, krill, etc.

These can be given in different proportions. Basically if one is lacking you need to increase the other. One problem with this is if the lights are TOO weak, the zooxanthellae will expell from the BTA and the BTA will very shortly after die

This is why you are getting different opinions from different people, they have different setups and also alot of different things work. RichConley has some REALLY NICE lights for a BTA. It can basically get by with no direct feedings in that kind of environment.

If you still have the same lighting you posted at the beginning, you'll need to make sure the anemone is getting energy through direct feedings. Probably a few times a week should be fine and start out with small minced foods.

The BTA may do perfectly fine in your tank, but I would feed it and observe it carefully. The sure sign that its light is lacking is the BTA's color starts to fade. At that point you'll need to upgrade lights or return it to the store before it dies.

Good luck! I just wanted to clear some of those opinions up for you ;). They were all fine, but thought maybe it needed some extra explanation.
 
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