how to deal with to much return pump?

[Remmers]

I picked up a reeflo dart/snapper hybrid and it only has the the bigger impeller.

So Its pushing around 3600 gph which is going to be to much since Im using it on a 180 and only have about 6-7ft total head going thru dual 1" returns.

I am going to make a manifold for my reactors and uv, but I'm thinking iI'm still going to have a little to much.

Could I use a ball valve to turn it down or will that hurt the bump over time?

or could I run a "pipe for blowoff" like you do a air pump and and have it dump into the return area?

 

[alton]

Your second choice, put a "T" and let the access go back into the sump or use it for a reactor in the future

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

Restricting the output will not harm the pump & is said to reduce the current usage.

 

[tom obrecht]

Restricting the output will not harm the pump & is said to reduce the current usage.

+1 When I ran larger systems I did this on numerous occasions Works just fine without issues.

 

[PorkChop]

^what they said.

Ball or gate valve to control the flow.

-Porkchop

 

[vashawn]

why dont u just add a shut off valve.

 

[FirstContact]

your second choice, put a "t" and let the access go back into the sump or use it for a reactor in the future

+1

 

[Bent]

3600gph - 7 feet of headloss + plumbing loss on a 180?

Doesn't sound excessive to me.

 

[PorkChop]

3600gph - 7 feet of headloss + plumbing loss on a 180?

Doesn't sound excessive to me.

Could still be. Depending on what you are doing. Some people don't use the return pump to play much of a part in "in-tank" flow. So... high "in-tank" flow for SPS or whatever is made via powerheads, while having very low flow to/from the sump to allow large dwell time in the sump to process it highly before it's returned to the main tank.

That's how I run mine.

-Porkchop

 

[WiDataTech]

I'd probably skip the ball valve and use a gate valve. Easier to make fine tuned adjustments if needed, and less likely to get corroded or clogged.

 

[PorkChop]

^ agree with that.

If you can add a union before and after it will make it way easier in the future to replace that valve if it ever does fail.

If you can't fit the unions in you might consider this one even though it is a ball valve and you can't make such fine adjustments... it is one of the better ones and comes with a union built into each side.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/cepex-ball-valve-1-45e03f0f460f42940faebd081950bf57.html

-Porkchop

 

[Sounds Fishy]

On occasion,for no apparent reason,my Mag 24 becomes more capable of pumping water,than other times.I think it has something to do with household electrical current...Anyway one day I noticed it was pumping overcapacity for my Durso system on my 220 Marineland XH,and was about to overflow the tank.I stuck a sponge on the outside of the pump intake.It worked just right,and everything seemed back in spec.For some reason,the pump went back to it's normal sluggish self a few weeks later.

 

[gone fishin]

I would just get the snapper impeller for $27. very easy to change.