How to do a basement or closet sump.

Sk8r

Staff member
RC Mod
Ideal is a basement with a concrete floor, floor drain, and utility sink. Every item of that makes life much easier, but it's still possible to isolate the noise of the pump from the room upstairs where the dt is, which is one really big advantage of a basement setup. You can access everything very easily.
I set up a dinged up bargain 100 gallon stand for a 30 gallon sump, and for a top---I used a piece of old kitchen countertop. Sturdy, absolutely cleanable, tough as nails.

To get your lines to the basement, you have to do some math and calculation, because you need to take two adequate lines through your upstairs flooring (hole saw blade on drill) and get hose through those and through your basement ceiling, if 'finished ceiling' down there. You need to support them without any right angle bends (hose is better than pipe for this, because pipe, if you get cavitation (uneven flow with air in it) it can sound like somebody's hammering down there. Hose bends where you need it and goes where you want it---which is into a pretty high intensity fall into your sump. Your return hose should have a pump that can handle about 10 to 20 feet of head (rise) without wheezing. I use an external Iwaki 100 (gph 2300) that sounds like a 737 revving for takeoff, but nobody cares down there. You DO need a gate valve in that line so you can adjust the flow.

You CAN do this kind of setup in a closet adjacent to or behind your upstairs tank, if your main thing is having a place where you can deal with a large skimmer, do water changes, and somewhat soundproof the operation. In this case your two holes go through the wall.

Neither does great violence to a house: you can spackle over the closet, or do some floor repair: 1 or so inch hole is not a devastation.

It's a dream of a setup if you have the place to do it. Makes so many things easier. I do my water changes from and to the sump, drain it down, fill it, pump it up. And I have good lighting and a counter to do the tests, etc.
 
my basement sump and fuge was the best thing I did for my tank, I have lots of room to work around it and I can have a good size sump/fuge. right now I have a 100 gal sump and 50 gal fuge. also makes water changes easier IMO.
 
Im doing a basement sump this summer. Questions ...

Do you recommend flex pvc to go through the holes in the floor to reduce vibrations and noise? Or a rigid pipe to eliminate the threat of leaks at all.

Do you recommend a pvc union above AND below the floor. Or just where the pipes come out of the tank?

What about having electrical lines going through the floor? Say I want the controller display upstairs and the powerbar in the basement to control some pumps etc? Would close proximity to pipes cause problems? Is there any condensation?

Do you use some spray foam in the hole after youve installed everything to keep the basement separated from upstairs or do you just stuff a rag around the pipe in the hole?
 
I have a collar on the hoses where they goes through floor. THe fit is tight, only 1/8th inch play. I don't like electric running beside water lines for any reason: if you had a bulkhead start to seep, as they occasionally can, getting older, it would get to the electrics. Just plan to go downstairs: you do need to run tests, eyeball things, make sure your skimmer is doing right, that sort of thing. I have only one valve, in the return line, convenient height to adjust. I use one continuous hose on each, no leaks.

What I do have, having an external pump, is an easy disconnect joint between the sump and the pump, with a threaded interior bulkhead connector, so I can cap the sump off, saving the sump water, and disconnect and reconnect the pump easily if it eats a snail and needs a little fix. Having an exterior pump wedded hard to your sump is a pita!
 
if I partially close the ball valves I have on each of my lines will that reduce the amount of noise I have in my pipes? Or maybe just on the drain side? I did a dry run with my setup and it sounds like a river is running underneath my tank, which I bet is air in the pipes with the water. Not terribly bad but louder than I want. Cheers!
 
I have a collar on the hoses where they goes through floor. THe fit is tight, only 1/8th inch play. I don't like electric running beside water lines for any reason: if you had a bulkhead start to seep, as they occasionally can, getting older, it would get to the electrics. Just plan to go downstairs: you do need to run tests, eyeball things, make sure your skimmer is doing right, that sort of thing. I have only one valve, in the return line, convenient height to adjust. I use one continuous hose on each, no leaks.

What I do have, having an external pump, is an easy disconnect joint between the sump and the pump, with a threaded interior bulkhead connector, so I can cap the sump off, saving the sump water, and disconnect and reconnect the pump easily if it eats a snail and needs a little fix. Having an exterior pump wedded hard to your sump is a pita!



I'm getting an ecotech M1 and will be using it in sump to reduce leak probabilities.

Your other info is good to know. Your right I should just get used to the idea of having to go to the basement everyday. The display unit upstairs was more for the alarm it produces of certain conditions occur.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Some units will talk to your computer. That is one way to get the info wirelessly.
 
If you can submerge your water intake in the downflow, it will silence the flow. The old durso standpipe arrangements are noisy. The Beananimal/Herbie overflow (qv) seems to do better on the noise.
 
Some units will talk to your computer. That is one way to get the info wirelessly.

I have a Reefkeeper and live in an Apple / Mac world. So yeah. :lolspin:

If you can submerge your water intake in the downflow, it will silence the flow. The old durso standpipe arrangements are noisy. The Beananimal/Herbie overflow (qv) seems to do better on the noise.

I know. Ive heard about this and have gone back and forth I figure I can always add the return over the top later if I want. I like the durso at this point. Less holes, less points of failure, no constant adjustments needed. Ive seen if you set it up correctly the noise is really not a problem. Plus it will be under a canopy.
 
I am considering doing a basement sump on a new setup soon but am concerned about being able to sell the house in a couple years after drilling 4 1" holes in my living room floor (3 for Bean Animal and 1 return). I do have extra carpet, so I could make patches for the carpet. And I suppose I could keep the floor cutouts and then glue them back in. Any thoughts about this issue?

Also curious what kind of hose you use. If you use the Flex PVC, where do you get it? I asked around for some a couple years ago and I just got weird looks at the plumbing supply places.
 
I am considering doing a basement sump on a new setup soon but am concerned about being able to sell the house in a couple years after drilling 4 1" holes in my living room floor (3 for Bean Animal and 1 return). I do have extra carpet, so I could make patches for the carpet. And I suppose I could keep the floor cutouts and then glue them back in. Any thoughts about this issue?



Also curious what kind of hose you use. If you use the Flex PVC, where do you get it? I asked around for some a couple years ago and I just got weird looks at the plumbing supply places.



I'm guessing your setup would go against the a wall?

What you could do is remove the section of baseboard on that wall and cut 2 slices into the carpet with a sharp knife and only pull back a small rectangle of the carpet up to where your stand would be. Roll that small section up to the base to keep it neat. Then using a hole saw drill your holes in the flood and keep the cutouts. If and when you sell your house you can the glued the cutouts back in and roll the carpet back into place.

It would keep it neat and concealed and depending on your carpet might not even be noticeable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'm guessing your setup would go against the a wall?

What you could do is remove the section of baseboard on that wall and cut 2 slices into the carpet with a sharp knife and only pull back a small rectangle of the carpet up to where your stand would be. Roll that small section up to the base to keep it neat. Then using a hole saw drill your holes in the flood and keep the cutouts. If and when you sell your house you can the glued the cutouts back in and roll the carpet back into place.

It would keep it neat and concealed and depending on your carpet might not even be noticeable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't even think about cutting and folding a section of carpet behind the stand. Great idea, thanks! That should work nicely for me.
 
With carpet... the challenge is much less daunting. Just cut away the portion of carpet you need to remove and drill your 4 holes. You can try to clean/sand off and keep the "plugs" from the sub-floor for a rainy day when/if you ever needed to plug the holes back up and then re-cover with carpet pad and a new piece of carpet to bring back to its original state.

My basement sump install was through the new hardwood flooring I was installing at the time. I found some awesome floor vents that were the same white oak flooring and tongue and groove right into the flooring install for a seamless finish. Now if I ever move, I can just "plug the holes" and drop the vent cover over it. No one would be any wiser... you'll see what I mean toward the bottom of pae 1 of my build

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2566622

-Cheers
 
THat would be my choice if I were doing it again: go through the wall, down through the wall footing to the the basement, then patch the sheetrock and paint.
 
Also curious what kind of hose you use. If you use the Flex PVC, where do you get it? I asked around for some a couple years ago and I just got weird looks at the plumbing supply places.


Spa flex or ultra flex is what your looking for. Any spa/pool place should have loads of it in stock. Even Lowes has the spa flex in stock, but I think its like 2" diameter.
 
Back
Top