How to make a spray bar to replace the AGA overflow nozzle

Yes I will..Got half the fuge built tonight, should finish up tomorrow then to the plumbing.

Thanks again electric for the tip
 
Project Update

Project Update

Started a small fuge/sump last night and went to Lows today for return lines and the spray bar tube. Just like electric said, 1.98 for a 5ft section. Here are a few pictures of the progress. Pump and overflow will be here by weeks end. By then I should have most of the pipe cut. the spray bar drilled and ready for assembly next weekend. Let me know what you all think so far.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v710/scead/DSC00003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v710/scead/DSC00002.jpg
 
Great thread - a couple questions

1. to connect the PVC fittings to the siloflex - are you using regular PVC glue/cement ?

2. Is the bond between PVC and siloflex watertight? ie can I use it outside my tank (instead of regular PVC or vinyl tubing) and not worry about leakage? I ask because unfortunately my Lowes, while carrying siloflex - only has the big rolls, not the small 5' sections.

Thanks
 
superstein61 said:
Great thread - a couple questions

1. to connect the PVC fittings to the siloflex - are you using regular PVC glue/cement ?

2. Is the bond between PVC and siloflex watertight? ie can I use it outside my tank (instead of regular PVC or vinyl tubing) and not worry about leakage? I ask because unfortunately my Lowes, while carrying siloflex - only has the big rolls, not the small 5' sections.

Thanks
I did like electric did with his, I got a barbed elbo, slightly heated the end of the pipe to let the barb go in easy. Let it cool and wha-la. Threded connector on the other side and PVC from there.
 
Sil-o-flex can not be glued. It must be used by pressing it on a barbed insert fitting. The idea of heating it first with a hair dryer makes this go pretty easy.
 
yeah, what they said. you use barbed, threaded fittings to go into the siloflex (just like the pictures show) and the you get threaded PVC fittings to thread the barbed fittings into. and yes, everything is water tight if you do it right.
 
Electric..Like you said in a earlyer post..Told my wife I was going to Lowes to get parts for an upgrade and its only $5.00,,I even had to show a receipt..belive it!
Yea..whipt like all the rest,,,,,
 
Sceadu said:
Electric..Like you said in a earlyer post..Told my wife I was going to Lowes to get parts for an upgrade and its only $5.00,,I even had to show a receipt..belive it!
Yea..whipt like all the rest,,,,,
been there!
whippingboy.gif
:lol:
 
electric130 said:

:lmao: The answer is from OTHER people who get them from sites like smileycentral.com!

I think that is J.R.'s real answer too! :lmao:

Way more convenient and safer too! This is coming from one of those "IT guys".
 
OK, so where are the "codes" without the ad ware? Thats coming from one of those "nowhere NEAR an IT" guys:D
 
H20ENG - It's easiest for the "IT challenged" to point to a friend's site that houses the graphics, or use a service like photobucket. But there are some great smilies on the link that PaPa_Johnny posted and the code with the full link is an easy cut and paste into your messages.

PaPa_Johnny - Thanks for sharing that great link.

J.R. - I had to take out my spraybar temporarily. I had too many holes and my current pump didn't push enough water for it. Overall circulation was much better, but no surface turbulence. I still haven't purchased a bigger pump (was waffling between a PW 50PX-X and PW 100PX-X). I think I'll jump off the fence and settle for the 50PX-X. It should have plenty of flow and lower power consumption. Besides this is a FOWLR, not a reef.
 
Hello all,

I've read through this whole thread and think it's a great idea, very simplistic. I was hoping I might get some feedback on a project I'm thinking of.

I'm about to convert my 125 AGA, 72"L X 24"D X 18"W from FO to a reef tank. I've already ordered the lights to see how much they will raise my water temp.

The AGA has 2 X 1" overflows with 1 1/2" Dursos and 2 X 3/4" returns. The returns are powered by a mag 12. It's 4 feet from the pump to the top of the returns, but there is a T 18" from the pump. The T has clear vinyl tubing attached that runs horizontally to the return inputs, 12" to one input and 4 feet to the other.

I was thinking of 3 levels of bars behind the rock to keep ditritus from settling. There would be disconnects at each level to ease breakdown and cleaning.

Sorry I couldn't post the schematic, I'll try to explain.

The bars would be approx 5 feet across. Looking at the tank, the return on the right side would elbow down to the third level, with a T at the second level. On the left side there would be a T at the top with the top of the T going across and providing flow at the top level and the T down would meet the second level. The second level would be supplied by both returns. I hope this makes sense.

Will the mag 12 be able to supply the needed pressure? Any comments or critiques would be greatly appreciated.
 
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