How to recharge DI resin

Hi,

My ro unit takes a rather small canister of di resin that fits above the membrane. About a 1/4 of the amount that fits into the 10" housing.

My input TDS is 84 so my resin usually lasts about 4 to 6 months as I'm only making 5gal a week.

Should I scale down the recipe by half for my amount of resin?

Also I can't seem to find muriatic acid locally only pool acid which is 30% hydrochloric acid if I'm not mistaken. Can in use this instead?

What concentration is the Muriatic Acid you guys use incase I can source it somehow.

Thanks
 
I've been regenerating my resins for years and find it much easier to leave the resins in the 10 inch cartridges during the process. I have separate canisters for the anion and cation resins and slowly flow the appropriate regenerating solutions thru the 10 inch canisters.
An old Kent Marine instruction sheet says to use the following mixtures. Use 2 quarts of muriatic acid mixed with 3 quarts of water for the cation and 120 grams ( approx 1/2 cup) of sodium hydroxide mixed with 5 quarts of water for the anion resin.
I attached a funnel to an 18 inch pc of 1 1/2 pvc, put a 90º elbow on other end and reduced this down to 1/4 and thread it into the side of the 10 in canister and slowly flow the solutions thru the resins.
Flush with a couple gallons of water. Re-assemble unit and throw out the first 5 gallon batch thru, then good to go.
 
Hi,

My ro unit takes a rather small canister of di resin that fits above the membrane. About a 1/4 of the amount that fits into the 10" housing.

My input TDS is 84 so my resin usually lasts about 4 to 6 months as I'm only making 5gal a week.

Should I scale down the recipe by half for my amount of resin?

Also I can't seem to find muriatic acid locally only pool acid which is 30% hydrochloric acid if I'm not mistaken. Can in use this instead?

What concentration is the Muriatic Acid you guys use incase I can source it somehow.

Thanks



Muriatic acid IS hydrochloric acid!
It's definitely the stuff sold at the pool shop, but it's also sold in many builders merchants as "brick acid" for cleaning up mortar spills on brickwork. If you find it there, it's probably going to be in much smaller quantities.


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Dont know if anyone still follows this thread, but I attempted to recharge some resin earlier. Right after adding the lye solution I got the seperation as shown. Scooped out all the floating anion. Difference between OP and my result, the anion was already dark blue/purple in color. I then thoroughly rinsed the cation and added the premixed muriatic acid solution. Still do not have a color change. I even rinsed again and added a bit stronger mixed muriatic acid solution, no luck. It is still a golden brown color.

FYI this is BRS color changing resin. What am I doing wrong?
 
Dont know if anyone still follows this thread, but I attempted to recharge some resin earlier. Right after adding the lye solution I got the seperation as shown. Scooped out all the floating anion. Difference between OP and my result, the anion was already dark blue/purple in color. I then thoroughly rinsed the cation and added the premixed muriatic acid solution. Still do not have a color change. I even rinsed again and added a bit stronger mixed muriatic acid solution, no luck. It is still a golden brown color.

FYI this is BRS color changing resin. What am I doing wrong?

The cation will not change color, you just have to time it. with the mixed resin the blue color comes from the ation, the cation stays a brown color charged or discharged. Although, I will say that from experience the charged cation has a deeper redish hue compared to the discharged resin.

Rest assured that the cation is charged.
 
Yes, mixed bed color changing resin usually only contains color changing anion resin. Cation doesnt change. You can purchase color changing cation resin if you are running separate towers. Also, an hour is way more than enough time to fully recharge the resin, so you are good.
 
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