montrosereef
New member
why bother recharging it. it is not that expensive $8-10 for a bottle
How to recharge DI resin
- Thread starter dngspot
- Start date
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
It's an excuse to release that mad scientist within.
It's the hunger to want to understand every aspect of the hobby.
shifty51008
12-5 Chiefs record
because it can save a lot of money in the long run, I just recharged a little over 15lbs last weekend, you look at BRS and 15lbs would cost you about $120.00 + shipping. I paid around $20.00 for all the stuff I needed to recharge that much.
DeathWish302
Clown Hoarder
You obviously have a nano or silver-lined pockets. If your using more than 30gal a week and live in an area with lmore than 400ppm TDS, you'll quickly determine it's a couple hundred bucks in savings a year. When I was on the E. coast, I preferred the extra money annually for corals and equipment. Now in MI, it's almost worthless to recharge since a 10" canister lasts almost 6 months with a TDS of less than 100ppm from the faucet.
DI resin and GFO is expensive and I enjoy those whom toss it, so send your spent media my way.
winland
New member
It appears that all of the photos on page 3 of this thread are gone and in addition, the other link on page 6 to the wichitaaquariumclub.com is no longer working.
Any chance some one can restore these links/photos or provide updated instructional photos/videos for this very informative and cost saving procedure?
Merry Christmas and Happy & Safe Holidays.
Chuck
Any chance some one can restore these links/photos or provide updated instructional photos/videos for this very informative and cost saving procedure?
Merry Christmas and Happy & Safe Holidays.
Chuck
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
stormrider27
Member
Bye far one of the best DIY step by step pictorial instructions I have every read! Thanks for posting the link!! :beer:
adampottebaum
New member
First off, great thread and article, thanks!
I read through and have a couple questions before me and some friends recharge our resin this weekend.
1. Does the sodium hydroxide and hydrochloric acid solutions last in a sealed plastic container or do they need to be used right away?
2. Are there recommended pressure ratings for running cation/anion filters? I recently gutted my ro/di to have (4) 10" prefilters (two sediment filters and two carbon blocks) and 1 10" DI canister(mixed bed for now). I have another add on DI canister coming this week so I can run separate filters and a little more media.
The reason I ask about the pressure is my tap is very high pressure (90-100psi) and if I run it full throttle the 1/4" tubing will shoot water across the room. I have it plumbed so the prefilters can be purged until the tds fall, then run flow to the DI and purged til 0 tds and then opened to the holding tank. I ran the water through the prefilters and could only get the tds down to ~350 tds and out of the DI ~ 250-260 after 2 or 3 hours. I throttled back the flow and it went down a bit, but not much. It also might be because of only running one 10" canister of DI resin for now...
Thanks for any help!
I read through and have a couple questions before me and some friends recharge our resin this weekend.
1. Does the sodium hydroxide and hydrochloric acid solutions last in a sealed plastic container or do they need to be used right away?
2. Are there recommended pressure ratings for running cation/anion filters? I recently gutted my ro/di to have (4) 10" prefilters (two sediment filters and two carbon blocks) and 1 10" DI canister(mixed bed for now). I have another add on DI canister coming this week so I can run separate filters and a little more media.
The reason I ask about the pressure is my tap is very high pressure (90-100psi) and if I run it full throttle the 1/4" tubing will shoot water across the room. I have it plumbed so the prefilters can be purged until the tds fall, then run flow to the DI and purged til 0 tds and then opened to the holding tank. I ran the water through the prefilters and could only get the tds down to ~350 tds and out of the DI ~ 250-260 after 2 or 3 hours. I throttled back the flow and it went down a bit, but not much. It also might be because of only running one 10" canister of DI resin for now...
Thanks for any help!
Buckeye Hydro
.Registered Member
Realize that if you had that sort of pressure delivered to an RODI system, you'd be fine. The flow going through the DI would be about 1/5th the flow coming to the RODI system.
But if you deliver that much flow to 10" x 2.5" DI, I suspect you won't have adequate contact time with the DI to get the job done. I'd shoot for flow of about 0.5 gpm through a 10" x 2.5" housing.
But if you deliver that much flow to 10" x 2.5" DI, I suspect you won't have adequate contact time with the DI to get the job done. I'd shoot for flow of about 0.5 gpm through a 10" x 2.5" housing.
recharge
recharge
Hi guys am a window cleaner in Australia and we use the mixed bed resin to gain pure water for cleaning windows. Just a quick question, how long does it normally take for anion and cation beads to separate? have added lye mixture and all that's happened after four hours is the beads on top are lighter colour than the bottom but no liquid gap in middle.
Any help muchly appreciated.
Cheers
Mike
recharge
Hi guys am a window cleaner in Australia and we use the mixed bed resin to gain pure water for cleaning windows. Just a quick question, how long does it normally take for anion and cation beads to separate? have added lye mixture and all that's happened after four hours is the beads on top are lighter colour than the bottom but no liquid gap in middle.
Any help muchly appreciated.
Cheers
Mike
Brummie
Member
Just add a bit more caustic (sounds like its not strong enough) and give it another hour
shifty51008
12-5 Chiefs record
mine will seperate almost right away, make sure you add enough lye so that it has enough room to sperate.
also giving it a stir with an acrylic rod or something else also helps
also giving it a stir with an acrylic rod or something else also helps
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Yes, the separation is almost immediate. It sounds like you had too much resin and not enough fluid.
After doing this for a few years now, I have simplified my approach and keep the anion and cation separated. I just added a second DI container to my system. So now the RO water flows through the cation and then the anion.
When the anion has changed color I replace/recharge the separate resins. This makes for an easier process all together. In my opinion, the hardest and messiest part of this process is separating the two.
After doing this for a few years now, I have simplified my approach and keep the anion and cation separated. I just added a second DI container to my system. So now the RO water flows through the cation and then the anion.
When the anion has changed color I replace/recharge the separate resins. This makes for an easier process all together. In my opinion, the hardest and messiest part of this process is separating the two.
Buckeye Hydro
.Registered Member
Realize that for many brands of resin, the capacity of a given volume of cation resin does not equal the capacity of the same volume of anion resin. So do a little homework and see if you shouldn't be running something other than a 1:1 ratio of anion to cation resin.
Russ
Russ
tallball158
New member
Be careful with some of this stuff, you can also use some of these materials to make meth. Buying some of this stuff can cause you some unwanted attention.
Hi guys, cool the beads separated and the rest seems pretty straight forward.
Only thing is I have to recharge about 12 litres of the stuff! Trying to figure out best way to up the ratios and method.
Any tips? Was thinking of separating the whole lot and having lots of containers to store beads after rinsing, and continuing to leave them soaking in their respective solutions as per the ratio in dngspots method.
Cheers for the help!
Mike
Only thing is I have to recharge about 12 litres of the stuff! Trying to figure out best way to up the ratios and method.
Any tips? Was thinking of separating the whole lot and having lots of containers to store beads after rinsing, and continuing to leave them soaking in their respective solutions as per the ratio in dngspots method.
Cheers for the help!
Mike
