RandyStacyE
New member
Yeah ... any new techniques or changes in the method?
I've been saving my DI just in case I decided to do this.
I've been saving my DI just in case I decided to do this.
How to recharge DI resin
- Thread starter dngspot
- Start date
dngspot
Premium Member
The technique is the same as described. I did obtain a few pounds of spent resin from our LFS. The only thing I did differently was multiply the chemistry to accommodate the large amount of resin I had to recharge. I did about 7 pounds of resin. I will keep the anion and cation separated until I need them, and then mix.
Because of the weather here in Kansas, I did the process in the house. I have a 6 foot table in the basement and a sink a few steps away. It worked out great.
Because of the weather here in Kansas, I did the process in the house. I have a 6 foot table in the basement and a sink a few steps away. It worked out great.
tgunn
Active member
I've got a couple big containers with all my old resin. I had no trouble finding the muriatic acid, but the lye was a bit hard to find locally. Apparently lye can be used to make Crystal Meth, so it's not common to find it in hardware stores, etc. Of course I did call up a farm supply store which was willing to sell my a 50lb bag. Lol. Luckily I found a smaller quantity at a small hardware store.
I'm going to give a shot at keeping the anion and cation separated. We'll see how that works out.
Of course I'm going to wait until spring so I can do this outside.
Tyler
I'm going to give a shot at keeping the anion and cation separated. We'll see how that works out.
Of course I'm going to wait until spring so I can do this outside.
Tyler
mr pink floyd
New member
what is the molarity of the Acid and Lye?
also, how do you neutralize the two? Most likely, simply mixing them in the bucket wont be sufficient in completely neutralizing them. 1 mole of HCl will neutralize 1 mole of NaOH. IF not measured out properly, you could be dumping excess acids or bases down the drain.
also, how do you neutralize the two? Most likely, simply mixing them in the bucket wont be sufficient in completely neutralizing them. 1 mole of HCl will neutralize 1 mole of NaOH. IF not measured out properly, you could be dumping excess acids or bases down the drain.
dngspot
Premium Member
I have noticed that the pics of the process are gone. If those are needed, they can be found with instructions at my local thread. http://wichitaaquariumclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100
DazedandConfuse
New member
For anyone who is having a hard time finding Lye. I get mine from an online soap making supplier. Lol, I've been making soap for years and have already gone through trying to find it locally. Also with the soap making suppliers it will be pure lye. Unlike some of the drain cleaners which have other things in them.
Hope this helps!
(if anyone needs a website address. Fell free to just ask. I'm not sure if I can just post it here since they aren't a Sponsor).
Hope this helps!
(if anyone needs a website address. Fell free to just ask. I'm not sure if I can just post it here since they aren't a Sponsor).
DazedandConfuse
New member
Oh. And another thing. You ALWAYS add the lye to the water. NOT the other way around. Lol, that's one of the first things they stress in soapmaking. Too many people have gotten hurt by adding water to lye.
dngspot
Premium Member
During my last recharge (today for a demonstration) I realized that I had not been exhausting the anion before it is recharged. I am not sure that this will make a difference but, I have noticed that my cation does turn purple when it is recharged and the anion does not change color during the recharge process. During the usage of the mixed resins, the canisters never change from a purple to a light brown. I have been changing the resin when the TDS goes up. I began to wonder if the anion did not recharge as well as the cation. This would be why the cation never changed color when the canisters where ready to be recharged.
What I did was after the separation process I removed the anion from the Lye solution and bathed it in the acid solution. It turned a much lighter brown and sunk to the bottom of the container, this would have completely discharged the anion. I strained and rinsed it, then placed it back into the lye solution. Its color became darker and it floated again, this means it has recharged.
For reference the cation is completely exhausted in the lye bath during the separation process.
Any input would be welcome.
I will post the results if the resin changes color when it is ready to be recharged.
For those who are not willing experiment with the process, stay with the original directions until the results, if any, are evident. The resin does recharge fine by the directions.
What I did was after the separation process I removed the anion from the Lye solution and bathed it in the acid solution. It turned a much lighter brown and sunk to the bottom of the container, this would have completely discharged the anion. I strained and rinsed it, then placed it back into the lye solution. Its color became darker and it floated again, this means it has recharged.
For reference the cation is completely exhausted in the lye bath during the separation process.
Any input would be welcome.
I will post the results if the resin changes color when it is ready to be recharged.
For those who are not willing experiment with the process, stay with the original directions until the results, if any, are evident. The resin does recharge fine by the directions.
Buckeye Hydro
.Registered Member
Dngspot - you are right - the resin you are recharging (assuming its still the resin you got from us) only has the color indicating characteristic on the cation beads.
Russ
Russ
dngspot
Premium Member
An update. Each resin recharge is lasting about 2 months. I have two 10 inch units and they seem to be exhausting in that time. My auto top off system is topping off every 8 gallons of evaporation.
After each resin recharge I seem to have to run the system for about 20 minutes to get the tds to 0. Today I did something different, I let the filled cartridges set and drain for about 2 hours. When I hooked them up they cleared in about 2 minutes. I also have been clearing the canisters in series; this would have dumped the stuff from the first canister into the second. I have altered this also and clear the first one then the second. It is funny how the simplest things are overlooked.
I will update if these changes extend the run time.
After each resin recharge I seem to have to run the system for about 20 minutes to get the tds to 0. Today I did something different, I let the filled cartridges set and drain for about 2 hours. When I hooked them up they cleared in about 2 minutes. I also have been clearing the canisters in series; this would have dumped the stuff from the first canister into the second. I have altered this also and clear the first one then the second. It is funny how the simplest things are overlooked.
I will update if these changes extend the run time.
