How to recharge DI resin
- Thread starter dngspot
- Start date
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
I'm using the Kati/Ani #1 unit, and I get between 30-40 gallons before I need to recharge. If I was smart, I would have purchased my TDS meter BEFORE going with the smallest unit available. If I had known how bad my water was, I probably would have sprung for the #10 unit.
Since I'm an idiot, I need to recharge more frequently, hence my desire to beef up my water purification with DIY'ing using the Spectrapure bulk resins.
Keep in mind, if your TDS is ~100, your resins will last four times as long as mine between each recharge, giving you 120-160 gallons.
The good news is that these German Aquatechnic resins will last me at least 8-10 years (based on the experience of Steven Pro and Anthony Calfo).
I've seen too many thread where people argue over which unit is the best, blah blah blah.
For me, water down the drain was not an option. I have the capability to get 0 TDS with no wastewater. Recharging the system every two or three weeks is the price I pay to do this. If your water isn't as crappy as mine, you won't have to do it as much.
I'd be happy to answer any other questions you may have. Keep in mind that I'm a noob reefer!
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
Check out Anthony's forums on Marine Depot. Not all resins are created equally, so I would shy away from the ebay deals on these. the German resins (Aquatechnic) and Spectrapure are pretty reputable from what I have read.
dngspot
Premium Member
I have also been making concrete rock for my other tanks. I use my waste water for this. It is a good option as I do not have to do water changes. If I where not going to do any more rock I would still opt for the ro before the di system. The water here is terrible.
Kid how do you do your regen?
Kid how do you do your regen?
Buckeye Hydro
.Registered Member
Check out Anthony's forums on Marine Depot. Not all resins are created equally, so I would shy away from the ebay deals on these. the German resins (Aquatechnic) and Spectrapure are pretty reputable from what I have read.
Resin manufacturers vs resin resellers...
Resin manufacturers vs resin resellers...
A.T.T.R
Active member
i got as far as seperating them. went to buy the acid and the caustic soda and relized i couldent find caustic soda localy so i just bought new di;s ( actualy i didnt look at lowes or hd. only went to pool stores.. seemed like a logical choice)
at work i just disconnect the quick disconnects on each chamber ( not mixed bed. ) and run it just like directions for kati/ani say ( forgot the name of hte company that makes the towers)
i got the resins from spectrapure
anyways i guess doing hte lye solution and brine solution do the same thing. your putting resins into a denser tehn normal water ( in tap or ro water THERE IS NO GAP jus one usualy collects alil more ontop of the other) i was just told to do brine solution i guess as a safty ( so oyur not removing lye/ resin and then adding acid to it) but same thing your just killing two steps with one
at work i just disconnect the quick disconnects on each chamber ( not mixed bed. ) and run it just like directions for kati/ani say ( forgot the name of hte company that makes the towers)
i got the resins from spectrapure
anyways i guess doing hte lye solution and brine solution do the same thing. your putting resins into a denser tehn normal water ( in tap or ro water THERE IS NO GAP jus one usualy collects alil more ontop of the other) i was just told to do brine solution i guess as a safty ( so oyur not removing lye/ resin and then adding acid to it) but same thing your just killing two steps with one
30reef
New member
I wish my tap water's TDS was only 400. Here in Phoenix, the TDS often exceeds 1000. I measured mine a few minutes ago using a handheld COM100 and it was 1460. That is raw tap water, not from the softener, which I might add regenerates every other day.
I think saving exhausted resin and regenerating would be a great idea. Maybe do it as a group with a bunch of your reefing buddies.
I think saving exhausted resin and regenerating would be a great idea. Maybe do it as a group with a bunch of your reefing buddies.
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
I'm not sure what that means.
My regen process is pretty simple. Mix 1 liter of muriatic acid in 3 liters water, run through Kati for 45 min. and leave it sit for 15 min. Flush w/ 10 liters water.
Mix 80 g lye w/ 3 liters water, run through Ani for 45 minutes and flush w/ 10 liters of water through Kati then Ani.
Ready to go.
I run both solutions into the same bucket so they neutralize one another.
Works for me. YMMV.
MrSpiffy
Premium Member
Man, I hate to sidetrack anything, but today's Dilbert cartoon is great for our side discussion of hybrid cars and stuff. Check it out. 
http://dilbert.com
Scott, how do you run the solutions through the resins for 45 minutes? Do you use a powerhead?
http://dilbert.comScott, how do you run the solutions through the resins for 45 minutes? Do you use a powerhead?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Russ (buckeyeFS) was just saying that not all resins have the same capacity or the same "attraction" to ions. Simply put, some do a better job than others.
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10177189#post10177189 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MrSpiffy
Man, I hate to sidetrack anything, but today's Dilbert cartoon is great for our side discussion of hybrid cars and stuff. Check it out.
Scott, how do you run the solutions through the resins for 45 minutes? Do you use a powerhead?
I use gravity, slowly moving the solutions through the resins.
dngspot
Premium Member
MrSpiffy,
I thought you have not done this before and did not have a ro system yet. If you get one of the common brands you will get a mixed bed resin cartridge. Sending lye and then acid through the resin will not work. What ever you finish with, acid or base you will cancel one or the other resins. It is important that anion and cation are in separate containers.
Sorry if I sent duplicate info, but hope this is clear.
I thought you have not done this before and did not have a ro system yet. If you get one of the common brands you will get a mixed bed resin cartridge. Sending lye and then acid through the resin will not work. What ever you finish with, acid or base you will cancel one or the other resins. It is important that anion and cation are in separate containers.
Sorry if I sent duplicate info, but hope this is clear.
MrSpiffy
Premium Member
You're correct in that I have not done this before, nor do I have an RO/DI system. But I'm always curious to learn new things. I realize they need to be separated first, but my question was this:
It appears that you let the resin components simply soak in their respective solutions for the full hour or so. Could you circulate the solutions in the containers, like with a small powerhead or something? (Can't see this method being good for powerheads. But they are mostly plastic, so it might be okay. Might ruin an impeller a bit more quickly.) Or does anyone continuously pour/stir the solutions over the resin parts? I'm more looking for the best method, here. And I would imagine it might be more efficient to circulate/stir the solutions instead of letting the resin soak.
It appears that you let the resin components simply soak in their respective solutions for the full hour or so. Could you circulate the solutions in the containers, like with a small powerhead or something? (Can't see this method being good for powerheads. But they are mostly plastic, so it might be okay. Might ruin an impeller a bit more quickly.) Or does anyone continuously pour/stir the solutions over the resin parts? I'm more looking for the best method, here. And I would imagine it might be more efficient to circulate/stir the solutions instead of letting the resin soak.
dngspot
Premium Member
I have a couple of reasons why I would not use a power head. A powerhead does not have the head pressure to force a solution through a canister, it would end up cavitating. I also see no reason to take a pump and add it to the expense of recharging.
I have no research on how effective circulating solutions would be, but I can say the resin only needs to be stirred a few times to to get the solution they need. I also do not like the idea of running acid and lye through my canisters.
I am not closed to finding a better way to do this but in my situation with mixed resins separating and soaking is the best way so far.
To be honest what you are looking for may make the process more complicated than needed.
I have no research on how effective circulating solutions would be, but I can say the resin only needs to be stirred a few times to to get the solution they need. I also do not like the idea of running acid and lye through my canisters.
I am not closed to finding a better way to do this but in my situation with mixed resins separating and soaking is the best way so far.
To be honest what you are looking for may make the process more complicated than needed.
MrSpiffy
Premium Member
I agree. Adding anything else to the process probably isn't really worth doing, as long as what you're currently doing does the job.
Do the lye/acid solutions recharge the resin fully to it's original capacity? Or does it usually have a reduced capacity after the first use? Does it degrade over time and need to be replaced anyway down the road? (My guess is "yes".)
Do the lye/acid solutions recharge the resin fully to it's original capacity? Or does it usually have a reduced capacity after the first use? Does it degrade over time and need to be replaced anyway down the road? (My guess is "yes".)
dngspot
Premium Member
I cant give a complete answer to the questions but I will give it a shot. The lye and acid did their job. One thing I did notice is that the color changing looks much darker than the new stuff I have. Only time will tell if the resin is lasting longer over time. It is performing like the new stuff did, I see 0 tds.
I would guess that it must eventually not be useable. Every one will have different results because of the different resin quality. I used Buckeye Field Supply's product and like what I have seen. If I get 3 years of usage from my resin I will call it a success. Unfortunatly it will take 3 years to get a solid answer.
I have seen one post that this guy got 500 recharges and is still going strong. I can only hope this is what I will get but this may be inflated.
I would guess that it must eventually not be useable. Every one will have different results because of the different resin quality. I used Buckeye Field Supply's product and like what I have seen. If I get 3 years of usage from my resin I will call it a success. Unfortunatly it will take 3 years to get a solid answer.
I have seen one post that this guy got 500 recharges and is still going strong. I can only hope this is what I will get but this may be inflated.
Buckeye Hydro
.Registered Member
I was drawing the distinction between what I thought was a german resin manufacturer, and a US resin re-seller
