HOW TO SET UP A TANK, condensed verions (retitled)

Great info and point made about the differnce in salanity between bag and tanks this is so often missed and a disaster in the making.
 
I am preparing to set up my first salt water tank (60+ gal reef). I am doing a 20 gal (24x12x163/4) sump/refugium with an overflow box as tank not sump ready. Was a little confused on the "layout" as I have to put the baffles in myself. Was looking at intake section containing the skimmer with a split baffle (if that makes sense) the water flowing into next section 4' from bottom, the middle chamber as refugium (ls,lr and chaeto; will likely place heater/s here as well), a 1.5" wide bubble trap, then the return/pump section. Any suggestions on height of baffles? All suggestions welcome! Also, what are the opinions on using PVC vs flex hose for intake and return.
 
If you show pictures of the sump, that will help others help you regarding the baffles.
The height of the baffle will depend on 2 things: 1:the sump should have enough space left if power fails and the water siphons from the retun line via pump into the sump, it shouldnt overflow... 2: the height of the skimmer...though you could adjust this by placing a stand under the skimmer.
personally I think rigid PVC handle better. I had tried spaflex, but wasnt very comfortable handling them, they r not so flexible and then at the connections I did not feel secure.
My 2 cents

CAFoster5 said:
I am preparing to set up my first salt water tank (60+ gal reef). I am doing a 20 gal (24x12x163/4) sump/refugium with an overflow box as tank not sump ready. Was a little confused on the "layout" as I have to put the baffles in myself. Was looking at intake section containing the skimmer with a split baffle (if that makes sense) the water flowing into next section 4' from bottom, the middle chamber as refugium (ls,lr and chaeto; will likely place heater/s here as well), a 1.5" wide bubble trap, then the return/pump section. Any suggestions on height of baffles? All suggestions welcome! Also, what are the opinions on using PVC vs flex hose for intake and return.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for all the great info. Have read this thread beginning to end.

I am starting my first Marine tank and am more interested in corals than the fish themselves. I am getting a 72 gallon bowfront tank with a 15 gallon sump along with about 100 pounds of Tonga rock with coraline algae from a well established and reputable tank.

Lighting will be a canopy suspended from a shelf that's bolted to the wall, in the canopy are 2 current sundial pendants. Each one has two 32 watt actinic bulbs and a 150 watt metal halide with a 48" lunar strip with a hundred LEDs for accent lighting.

I am currently making RODI water and filling an old 40 gallon tank to "stage" the rock in until the new tank is in place. Once it is, I am planning on placing the rock, filling with the water from my "staging" tank and then adding 80 pounds of rinsed live sand.

Without getting ahead of myself, am I missing anything at this stage? Beside keeping salinity at .24 and temp, should I be concerned about anything else before cycling? Or am I on the right track?

Also, very important. Will the lighting described support coral?

Thanks again for alll this info!
 
I just redid my tank, took all livestock out, all sand, and all rock. Replaced it with dry Pukani from BRS. Was planning on letting it run for four weeks, then do a 100% water change to remove any PO4 that might leach from rock. See if I get another cycle. Add an ammonia source and see what happens let it run for another 2-4 weeks. My question is I see it is recommended to run the lights? Wouldn't it be better to keep lights off to keep algae down? Or is it better to just let the algae grow to remove nutrients and just add a clean up crew at end of cycle?
 
I am in the process of starting my new tank, just getting back into this from a 7 year hiatus. I have a 40g tank that i wish to turn into a reef tank. I will be getting the reef octopus bh300 as my skimmer. I intend to just add uncured LR, live sand and Medium grade Aragonite to get my cycle going. Once it is going plan on using Aquatic Life T5 HO 4-lamp light fixture w lunar leds. Suggestions/commets on set up greatly appreciated.
 
Great Post

Great Post

Very helpful information for someone just beginning or like myself out of the hobby for awhile and need a refresher.
 
tbopslt said:
Once it is, I am planning on placing the rock, filling with the water from my "staging" tank and then adding 80 pounds of rinsed live sand.

Also, very important. Will the lighting described support coral?
Click to expand...

Rinsing live sand kind of defeats the purpose of paying extra for live sand so I wouldn't. Since you're starting to cycle your rock, just use regular sand, rinse that, and add it once your rock has cured. It will become "live" from the water and contact with the rock and less chance of adding more (unwanted) hitchhikers that way too.

The MH lights should be fine for most coral. I have lps, sps, and polyps, doing fine under T5ho flourescents.
 
kissman said:
Wouldn't it be better to keep lights off to keep algae down? Or is it better to just let the algae grow to remove nutrients and just add a clean up crew at end of cycle?
Click to expand...

I know this is an old question but wanted to chime in. My of my research sides on leaving the lights off when cycling rock; that it is not needed. Rather not have a mess to begin with than trying to clean it up later.
 
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