HQI ballast questions

luther1200

luther1200

Premium Member
This is a quote from a thread I have in reef dicussion. I was hoping I could get a little more info on it in here. Thanks.




<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14907886#post14907886 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by luther1200
OK, so I have another question. I am still running the stock ballats that came with the Coralife fixture. So I was thinking maybe I could get some better ballasts. If I got an electronic ballasts would I be able to just hook it up to my HQI sockets?

I was looking at this 1.

http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=28_395_433&products_id=2496

Would this work???
Click to expand...
 
You will have to inspect the light fixture. Coralife usually mounts the lamp ignitor (starter) inside the light fixture. This has to be removed or it can damage the ballast and short out the ignitor. Depending on the Coralife fixture you have it may require you to run a new cord from the ballast to the to the lamp sockets (in some of the combination light fixtures) because the neutral/common wire is sometimes shared with other components inside the light fixture.
 
Yes, the igniter is inside the fixture. So just remove it from the circuit? Because the new ballast has it in the ballast?

But basically it can be done, and it may just need to be rewired? I think I can handle that. I just wasn't sure if the sockets were usable.
 
The sockets are the same expect if you change the lamp wattage with double-ended HQI systems. Most ballasts are equipped with a lamp ignitor or lamp starting circuit. You want to remove it from the circuit to use the linked ballast. Also make sure the neutral/common wire is not shared inside the fixture (shared with fans or other lights). The neutral/common wire cannot be shared on the output cord from electronic ballasts.
 
Cool, I think I got it. Thank you. I will post pics if I do it. I will try to get some before and after shots.

Is that ballast I linked to a good 1?
 
I have no experience with that Coralvue ballast but most dual rated 150/175 watt ballasts do provide more lamp power to 150-watt lamps than a single rated wattage (150-watt) ballast. Providing more lamp power will result in a color shift and generally higher light output but may shorten lamp life. Some manufacturers are against using them because the ballast cannot meet the electrical specifications for both lamps (starting and operating requirements).

The IceCap ballasts are single wattage rated and will not overdrive lamps (operate lamp past wattage rating). The IceCap 175-watt ballast is only intended and recommended for 175-watt metal halide lamps.
 
The IceCap 150-watt ballast is a good choice. I personally prefer commercial grade electronic ballasts which the IceCap 150-watt ballast is.
 
Well I decided on getting 2 of the Ice Cap ballasts. I will either order them tomorrow or Saturday. I still need a little more info making sure I get everything to wire them up. I would hate to get them and have to wait a while to hook them up.
 
The PFO box/enclosure is nice but isn’t required. The PFO enclosure has a PFO lamp cord disconnect and will not fit the plug from other light fixtures. It is designed to work with PFO light fixtures. The wiring is pretty simple and pretty much the same for all electronic ballasts. You have white, black and green for input power and two output wires to the lamp socket/s.
 
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