Husker Custom 5'x2'x2' Peninsula SPS Build

[HuskerBioProf]

I'm very early in this process, but I decided to start a build thread as to get some pointers from the seasoned SPS pros as I am working on this.

I had been out of the reef tank game for a few years. Even though my 40 Breeder setup was pretty nice, I bought it completely plumbed so I didn't get to run a ghost overflow or Bean Animal plumbing setup. I also used a lot of rock from somebody's tank that I didn't "kill" well enough. Consequently, my drains are loud and I have some phosphate and bryopsis "problems." I also built the stand for my 40 breeder. It is pretty level, but I don't trust my skills with a 150 gallon tank. I decided to have a local contractor custom build a stand for me.

We are at our permanent house, so I decided I wanted to build a custom peninsula tank to create a pseudo wall to close off a bit of what is now an office "area."

Here are the plans for the setup. The bold items are already purchased.

Tank: 60" x 24" x 24" Planet Aquariums with Starfire Glass on 3 panels
Overflow: Synergy Shadow Overflow with Bean Animal Plumbing
Lighting: ATI Sunpower 60" 8 bulb fixture Nanobox Reef retrofit (6 bulbs T5 + 6 Nanobox pucks)
Sump: 75 gallon tank
Flow: ??? I have an MP40 and an MP10 on my 40 breeder. I would like similar flow levels without any powerheads on the far end, if possible. I really like the Tidal Swell mode on the Vortecs and my SPS seem to, too. Would an MP60 do it?
Skimmer: ????
Return Pump: ????


Here is a general plan for my stand, tank, and sump. The stand will have a beam overhead for hanging my lights. There will be a closed-off electronics compartment above the ATO reservoir. The tower on the left will also serve as a cabinet for electronics.

Here is the plan for the aquascape. The LFS carries Pukani dry rock, so I plan on going over and hand picking some pieces. I have 2 rocks with a lot of nice SPS very encrusted that I want to add to the aquascape. The plan is to cement the main 'scape in place with a nice spot to set each rock.

If anyone has any suggestions or tips, please let me know (especially with flow, for those with peninsula tanks). I plan on having this tank set up for many years, so I want to do it right.

 

[Smokey Stover]

I'm also shopping/comparing flow options. For near the same cost of the MP40's The Maxspect Gyre 230, or 250 is looking good for me. And you can add another pump to run in sync with the nifty controller. Or I may just go with that new Icecap 3K and spend more on fish. Any of those would be great for a long tank.

 

[HuskerBioProf]

I'm also shopping/comparing flow options. For near the same cost of the MP40's The Maxspect Gyre 230, or 250 is looking good for me. And you can add another pump to run in sync with the nifty controller. Or I may just go with that new Icecap 3K and spend more on fish. Any of those would be great for a long tank.

True, an MP60 is definitely costly but I do have an MP40wqd already-- I could add another MP40 for reasonably cheap if 2 would work. I have an old gyre 130 right now that is just sitting around. I loved it when I had it in my tank, it puts out a lot of flow. There are a few issues though:
1) The controllability isn't near what the Vortecs have-- I really think the Tidal Swell mode of pulse-pulse-pulse-swell does a great job of keeping everything in suspension and knocking particles out of crevices.

2) The gyres are a pain in the butt to clean and the lose a lot of performance when they get dirty (at least the 130 did).

3) I would like to have my powerheads on the side against the wall (and not the other side, if possible). However, because that side also has the overflow, I don't think I would have space for a gyre unless I put it vertically. There will only be about an 8" space to put powerhead(s).

 

[jda]

If you can only do flow from one end, check out a wavebox along with your flow pumps. They effectively move tremendous amounts of water since every gallon washes back and forth and they are easy to hide on one end - considerably more effective flow than some static pumps.

 

[longdrives]

I'm very early in this process, but I decided to start a build thread as to get some pointers from the seasoned SPS pros as I am working on this.

I had been out of the reef tank game for a few years. Even though my 40 Breeder setup was pretty nice, I bought it completely plumbed so I didn't get to run a ghost overflow or Bean Animal plumbing setup. I also used a lot of rock from somebody's tank that I didn't "kill" well enough. Consequently, my drains are loud and I have some phosphate and bryopsis "problems." I also built the stand for my 40 breeder. It is pretty level, but I don't trust my skills with a 150 gallon tank. I decided to have a local contractor custom build a stand for me.

We are at our permanent house, so I decided I wanted to build a custom peninsula tank to create a pseudo wall to close off a bit of what is now an office "area."

Here are the plans for the setup. The bold items are already purchased.

Tank: 60" x 24" x 24" Planet Aquariums with Starfire Glass on 3 panels
Overflow: Synergy Shadow Overflow with Bean Animal Plumbing
Lighting: ATI Sunpower 60" 8 bulb fixture Nanobox Reef retrofit (6 bulbs T5 + 6 Nanobox pucks)
Sump: 75 gallon tank
Flow: ??? I have an MP40 and an MP10 on my 40 breeder. I would like similar flow levels without any powerheads on the far end, if possible. I really like the Tidal Swell mode on the Vortecs and my SPS seem to, too. Would an MP60 do it?
Skimmer: ????
Return Pump: ????


Here is a general plan for my stand, tank, and sump. The stand will have a beam overhead for hanging my lights. There will be a closed-off electronics compartment above the ATO reservoir. The tower on the left will also serve as a cabinet for electronics.

Here is the plan for the aquascape. The LFS carries Pukani dry rock, so I plan on going over and hand picking some pieces. I have 2 rocks with a lot of nice SPS very encrusted that I want to add to the aquascape. The plan is to cement the main 'scape in place with a nice spot to set each rock.

If anyone has any suggestions or tips, please let me know (especially with flow, for those with peninsula tanks). I plan on having this tank set up for many years, so I want to do it right.

For a return pump I would go with an EHEIM 1260 or 1262, they are tried and true, they never die and are quiet. I have one and it starts and stops daily for past 2 years as part of my APEX AFS feed cycle.

 

[longdrives]

True, an MP60 is definitely costly but I do have an MP40wqd already-- I could add another MP40 for reasonably cheap if 2 would work. I have an old gyre 130 right now that is just sitting around. I loved it when I had it in my tank, it puts out a lot of flow. There are a few issues though:
1) The controllability isn't near what the Vortecs have-- I really think the Tidal Swell mode of pulse-pulse-pulse-swell does a great job of keeping everything in suspension and knocking particles out of crevices.

2) The gyres are a pain in the butt to clean and the lose a lot of performance when they get dirty (at least the 130 did).

3) I would like to have my powerheads on the side against the wall (and not the other side, if possible). However, because that side also has the overflow, I don't think I would have space for a gyre unless I put it vertically. There will only be about an 8" space to put powerhead(s).

MP40QD on each side would be great. I did have a GYRE XF-150 on one side and MP40w on the other at one point, the GYRE provide a ton of flow but is a pain to clean and maintain compared to mp40w in my experience.

 

[HuskerBioProf]

So nobody thinks a single MP60 on the one side on tidal crest would cut it? Or an MP60 and an MP40 on one side? I would prefer not to have anything on the sides that aren't touching the wall. Also, the tank is also euro braced on the ends (the 2' sides), so it would make it difficult to have powerheads with wires in the tank -- the wire would have to go up around the 5" euro bracing. That might look really bad.

I will look into the Tunze wavebox. Anyone with personal experience with those?

 

[btb72]

Looking forward to this!

 

[jda]

I would never have a tank again without a tunze wavebox. I have one that is OG from them. I have another that was built out of a tunze pump and wavecontroller and the box is out of acrylic.

 

[HuskerBioProf]

Do you have a picture of your wavebox setup?

 

[iced98lx]

Following along

 

[jda]

It looks just like the Tunze ones available for sale with any retailer. Just a black box that I put in the corner that is now covered with coralline. The other one is just like that but acrylic under all of the coralline.

I will see if I can get a video of what the BTAs do in the flow. That can give a really good idea of how much water gets moved.

 

[jda]

This one does pretty good:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe6Ni1rgoJQ

Just imagine the water flowing in and out of the SPS and watch the polyps swish back and forth like the GSP or xenia in this video. It is very hard to get a video of in person, but it move a LOT of water in and out of the colonies.

 

[iced98lx]

I've seen a few tanks with 2/3 MP's on the wall like you're talking about, I think most ran them in Else mode. I could see two vertical gyres creating some counter current against each other too... Realistically you're almost certain between 1xMP60, 1xMP40 and 1xGyre to get some sort of flow you're happy with. The worst part is as things grow in you'll need to adjust it anyway, hard to say if you'll get flow you're happy with 2 years from now with just those pumps.

One thing to consider, it appears you're planning on a floating canopy? I can't tell if the tank you purchased is rimless? If not, you could probably plumb some returns along the rim inside the tank with extra effort, so you could use return flow to provide some movement too. I've seen tanks with 1 inch PVC around the entire inside of the rim, with multiple outlets providing flow around the tank. Could also use the rim to hide a wire for a gyre / other internally wired pump if absolutely needed (though I agree with your hatred of a magnet on the outside of the glass on a setup like this). If it has cross braces across the top you could mount a gyre or non-vortech pump hanging off one of those as well.

Those are my ideas anyhow.

 

[HuskerBioProf]

I've seen a few tanks with 2/3 MP's on the wall like you're talking about, I think most ran them in Else mode. I could see two vertical gyres creating some counter current against each other too... Realistically you're almost certain between 1xMP60, 1xMP40 and 1xGyre to get some sort of flow you're happy with. The worst part is as things grow in you'll need to adjust it anyway, hard to say if you'll get flow you're happy with 2 years from now with just those pumps.

One thing to consider, it appears you're planning on a floating canopy? I can't tell if the tank you purchased is rimless? If not, you could probably plumb some returns along the rim inside the tank with extra effort, so you could use return flow to provide some movement too. I've seen tanks with 1 inch PVC around the entire inside of the rim, with multiple outlets providing flow around the tank. Could also use the rim to hide a wire for a gyre / other internally wired pump if absolutely needed (though I agree with your hatred of a magnet on the outside of the glass on a setup like this). If it has cross braces across the top you could mount a gyre or non-vortech pump hanging off one of those as well.

Those are my ideas anyhow.

It isn't a floating canopy as much as a large beam. I had a tank as an inspiration, but I can't find it now. We will see how it turns out. I like how the beam allows airflow completely around the ATI lighting unit, but also provides the opportunity to hang other lights in the future (without putting holes into my house).

The tank is mostly rimless, with euro bracing on the short ends. This makes it tricky to have any power head on the ends that has a cord in the tank, as I would have to run it up and over the euro bracing. Because of the rimless design, the return pipe around the rim won't really work.

I think I might go with MP40s on either end (or maybe an MP40 on one and an MP60 on the other). I could have the cord go straight down into the stand and it wouldn't be that obtrusive.

I'm not so sure about the wavebox idea... I have heard a lot of people's breaking and it takes up a lot of space in the tank. I also really like the random flow that can be generated with the vortecs. We will have to see. The tank and stand has another couple of months left, so I have a little time to think about it.

 

[iced98lx]

Yea with only eurobracing (i'm sure glass) and a setup where you may be looking down often you're pretty limited. What about an MP40 mounted on the bottom with a PVC length/elbow going up?

Honestly this is where I'd be looking at controllable DC pumps and a closed loop as a real option for getting flow down there and augmenting the MP's on the other end, even if it's only a couple outlets.

 

[HuskerBioProf]

Yea with only eurobracing (i'm sure glass) and a setup where you may be looking down often you're pretty limited. What about an MP40 mounted on the bottom with a PVC length/elbow going up?

Honestly this is where I'd be looking at controllable DC pumps and a closed loop as a real option for getting flow down there and augmenting the MP's on the other end, even if it's only a couple outlets.

An MP40 shooting vertically from the bottom? What about the PVC? I'm not sure I understand what you are describing.

I like to keep things relatively simple-- less spots for error/failure. For this reason, I decided against a closed loop. I think I would rather have powerheads on both ends.

My lights will be here Monday.

I just found out my stand will be done and delivered on April 9th. I'll miss having a stand I built, and the emotional attachment that came with that. However, I am really excited about the features of this tank and the assurances that come with a builder who knows what they are doing.

I never thought I'd spend this much money on this setup, but with the big 3: (lights, stand, tank) I decided that these are the last I will buy-- especially the stand/tank.

 

[HuskerBioProf]

My lights came today. 60" ATI T5 modified to be 6 bulbs + 2 rows of LED strips (10 LED boxes total). Dave at NanoBox reef did the mod. I don't have much time these days, so the opportunity to have him buy the T5, do the retrofit, and ship it to me was great. I love T5s for SPS, but I like the effects LEDs can provide (ramping, shimmer, actinic moonlight).

About 1 month until my stand is done and my tank should be delivered this week. Getting excited.

 

[reefmutt]

Cool mod!
I'd definitely get all 3 of your pumps in there.. just put the gyre on random or basic on off mode.. it'll randomize the currents from the mps.. strong random flow is the ultimate imo.
Looking forward to seeing this develop.

 

[HuskerBioProf]

So my tank came in the other day. The LFS is going to hold it until my stand is done.

Unfortunately, the tank isn't exactly what I expected.

1) I was told the tank would be euro braced on each end, so I assumed that would be the only bracing. The tank came with black trim on the top and bottom in addition to the euro bracing. Fine, I guess. I didn't explicitly say no trim, so maybe the assumption of "euro braced" being ONLY euro braced was an error on my part.

2) I asked for the holes to be drilled for a Synergy Shadow overflow so that the overflow is off center, giving room for powerheads next to it. The panel is only 24" wide, and with a 16" overflow, I wanted around 7" on one side to have powerheads and return plumbing. It looks like they put the holes in the dead center, which will only give 4" on either side.

3) I asked for a hole for return plumbing to run next to the overflow box. There is no hole for return pump bulkheads.


The LFS owner only looked at the tank briefly for damage when he accepted it and now he is out of town. He said he would look into it when he gets back. Any thoughts on how I should proceed? I have zero experience with custom tanks.