Husker Custom 5'x2'x2' Peninsula SPS Build

Who built it? Some are better than others about defects and you have to approach them differently.

For #1, you might have to live with it since you did not specify, but there is no excuse for 2 and 3.
 
Planet Aquariums built it, but everything was through my LFS, so I'm not really sure if they built it incorrectly or he told them correctly. All I really have is the correspondence between him and myself. I paid the store directly, and there wasn't a "contract" so to speak-- at least not one I ever saw.

I am actually okay with the trim, as it does give some extra options with running cords on powerheads that I was worried about.

I could live with the lack of return plumbing hole, too, as I could just go over the top and anchor it down (I was debating that anyway). But if there isn't any room for powerheads on the end with the overflow, I have to put them all on the viewable end. I am hoping the overflow actually fits in the holes, I haven't tested it yet. If it does, and there is still some space for powerheads, I guess I could live with it.

What do I do otherwise, send it back? Would I have to pay to ship it back again?
 
You could also choose to live with the issues at a substantial discount. MP40 is probably out, but there are some water movers that will fit in 4". If it is not tempered, then holes are no big deal.

Do not do this unless an absolute last resort, but assuming that you paid with a debit or CC, you can always file a dispute. Most retailers will do anything to avoid this. It can also really hurt them, so don't go this route unless they just won't do anything at all. If you paid the LFS and you have the correspondence and it came in wrong, then you will win.
 
Ugh.. what a pita.. good luck with that.. I hope you end up satisfied with the resolution.. whatever it may be..
It's always disappointing when you plan everything out and it doesn't end up the way you wanted it..
 
I'm kind of a pushover, so I let the LFS owner talk me into letting him drill a return hole and to leave the overflow how they have it. He convinced me there would be enough room for my MP40s on the ends (and maybe enough for an MP60).

I think this helps me work out how my flow is going to go: MP40 + return on one side of overflow, directional powerhead on the other (Tunze, maybe?). MP40 or MP60 on the other end.
 
I got my BRS Reef saver rocks in. Only 40 pounds. I want to leave a lot of negative space, but still have a bit of a valley that creates depth and a different view from each side. The two foam pads represent the two rocks from my current tank that I plan to add.

I plan on gluing the structure and maybe creating a bit more of an overhang to the structure on the right. Let me know if you have any thoughts or suggestions.
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Thanks. I decided to make the one island a little more dramatic, so I did some drilling and gluing. I ordered another 20 pounds of rock to make the other island. I want to create a diagonal valley between the islands to create depth and make the tank look different from each side.

Pretty happy with how my pillar/overhang turned out though.
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Some less fantastic updates.

So the custom tank wasn't exactly how I ordered, but I am sucking it up.

Next, my light fixture showed up with the reflectors prettybeat up (see picture). I didn't mention it before, because he said he would send new reflectors. However, it has been about a month and I haven't heard from him.

Now, my stand, which was supposed to be done this weekend, is not going to be made. It sounds like the contractor I used made skmebad personal/business decisions and he is dissolving the company. Fortunately, his business partner is going around paying off all his debts. This means I am not out any money. I just have to build a stand now. I have been talking with a guy and I think I might go steel for the extra space underneath. It sounds like I could get the stand for cheaper than I was expecting (it sounds like my bid was pretty high, too).

Oh well, it will all work out.
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Nice! Makes such a big difference when a wc is just opening and closing valves and plugging a pump. Much more likely to do them regularly.
 
Ah.. another sps peninsula tank. Mines been up for a little over a year now. Iv got a 4ft tank custom tank. Im running a Gyre 150 and 4 tunze 6095. All on the short side against the wall. I love the ecotech pumps. BUT, with the tunze pumps i can really direct the flow. If your gonna have all the poweheads on the short side, being able to control the direction to some degree is a big help. It just helps you randomize the flow more and adjust it as the tank grows out. I just dont think i could have achieved this with the fixed direction of the ecotech pumps.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Ah.. another sps peninsula tank. Mines been up for a little over a year now. Iv got a 4ft tank custom tank. Im running a Gyre 150 and 4 tunze 6095. All on the short side against the wall. I love the ecotech pumps. BUT, with the tunze pumps i can really direct the flow. If your gonna have all the poweheads on the short side, being able to control the direction to some degree is a big help. It just helps you randomize the flow more and adjust it as the tank grows out. I just dont think i could have achieved this with the fixed direction of the ecotech pumps.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Interesting. Do you have any pictures of your setup or a build thread? It turns out my vortechs won't even fit on the side with the overflow, so now I am looking at having them all be on the opposite end. Maybe I will supplement the overflow side with some Tunze pumps. I may end up switching everything over to Tunze to keep the powerheads only on the overflow end against the wall. I like that clean look, but I love the programmability of vortechs, too.
 
So I am really struggling to find somebody who will build the stand for me. I am too much of a chicken to build it myself. So here we are... me with my tank sitting on the floor next to me. Empty as a pocket.

Here is what I am thinking now... Have a steel frame built level, then all I have to do is make the skin. I don't have the carpentry skills for some of the features I would really like, but I could give them a shot. I don't need the stand to be flashy, but I want it to look decent and be functional: plenty of space for a 75 gallon sump/fuge, easy access, plenty of separate areas for storage and electrical items.
 
In terms of the stand or the plumbing?

For the stand, I basically just cut and slapped together leftover wood until I thought it would be stable. The plumbing was based on some mixing stations I have seen in the forums and a little modifications for my needs. I have "plans" that I drew on graph paper, but I imagine this photo of the completed project would be more valuable. It is all 1" PVC, with 1" slip by slip bulkheads and schedule 80 fittings.
 
Upgraded my water change station. No more bucket hauling for water changes.
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I'm gonna steal this design. But how are you circulating water in the blue container? I see the input for the pump but there doesn't appear to be output back into the tub. Is that one your ro tub and you just aren't circulating?
 
I'm gonna steal this design. But how are you circulating water in the blue container? I see the input for the pump but there doesn't appear to be output back into the tub. Is that one your ro tub and you just aren't circulating?

There is no circulation in the blue container. You are correct, it is the RODI container. The RODI water in the blue container simply is pumped (or can drain by gravity) to the saltwater mixing container.
 
Here is a bit of a mock up of my stand plans. The idea is to build with steel and skin it. I think this gives me the best chance of all of my little built in areas.
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Here is an updated plan for the tank. I am looking at making the tower out of steel as well, now. I am also planning on rigging up a display refugium in an alcove adjacent to the tank's placement. The plumbing will be a bit tricky, but I think I have it figured out. We should get started on the build in the next few weeks.
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