hydroids
- Thread starter aznnutty
- Start date
the budman
New member
i think kalk paste will kill them
ReefWidowed
New member
If you can get them into a quarantine tank you can use Panacur (fenbendazole) to permanently erradicate them. Only problem is, since you had them in your fuge, any free swimming hydroids are already in your main system and it would have been for nothing.
I would also recommend some flatworm exit if you can get it into a quarantine tank.
<b><u>You cannot dose Panacur in your display tank</b></u>
It is available from 1800Petmeds, or even some pet stores/feed stores.
You can find dosing instructions either in the Seahorse forum on here or on the seahorse.org site. I don't think I have that info around here anymore.
Good Luck
I would also recommend some flatworm exit if you can get it into a quarantine tank.
<b><u>You cannot dose Panacur in your display tank</b></u>
It is available from 1800Petmeds, or even some pet stores/feed stores.
You can find dosing instructions either in the Seahorse forum on here or on the seahorse.org site. I don't think I have that info around here anymore.
Good Luck
BrunstuckyJoe
Active member
Flatworm exit is effective on hydroids?
ReefWidowed
New member
No, but it probably has a few hitchhiking on it. Much easier to dose FE in a 10 gal QT than a large system.
ReefWidowed
New member
Seahorse.org says it a lot more eloquently, but you cannot use panacur in your display tank because it seeps into everything (rocks/sand.....some say silicone and glass) and keeps on working, making it impossible to ever keep snails, worms, squishy cleaners in there ever again. It's mainly used in dwarf seahorse tanks, because they commonly do not have a clean up crew, just daily water changes and fake decorations (though naturalization of habitat is a new and emerging trend....just difficult)
I'm not sure about the UV, might want to post that in the expert forum here or if you have a specific UV in mind on Marine Depot. I have also heard that upping the flow prevents them from getting a chance to settle on a rock, but I've never tried it.
Best of luck
And if you get mad and decide to use a blowtorch (which many do) ALWAYS wear safety goggles and gloves.
I'm not sure about the UV, might want to post that in the expert forum here or if you have a specific UV in mind on Marine Depot. I have also heard that upping the flow prevents them from getting a chance to settle on a rock, but I've never tried it.
Best of luck
And if you get mad and decide to use a blowtorch (which many do) ALWAYS wear safety goggles and gloves.
Chelo's Big Sis
New member
what are hydroids? and why are they a problem?
Cindy
Cindy
it hasnt been long at all, but i'm pretty confident. The tubes turned crispy black and have disintegrated down to nothing. I have about 4 colonies, and tested the lighter on 2 of them. One is completely gone, and the other about 3 hydroids survived out of like 30, probably because the lighter fuel was running out and the flame got weak on the batch. I'm going to try again next water change on the rest. These colonies took about 2-3 years to get bad, so even if they come back it'll be a long time before it's a problem again.
MeVsTheWorld
Salt Creep
Nothing like a little flame broiled hydroids 
Sounds like a good idea.
Sounds like a good idea.I fried the rest today, hopefully I didnt miss any. I might have done a little too good of a job this time; the rock was scorched black in a couple spots and the soot was floating around on top of the water like an oil slick. Before, the only affect was the coralline turned pink. I sucked it up, and it looks like it didnt really affect the tank.
MeVsTheWorld
Salt Creep
The black soot should/might act like a temporary carbon source. I don't think you've got anything 2 worry about.
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