Hyposalinity & Biofiltration

[fittiger]

If I was to use a qt tank and drop the salinity to treat for ich, what would happen to the bacteria in reference to biofiltration?

In other words, are the bacteria that perform the nitrogen cycle in a marine environment the same ones/species in a fresh/brackish environment? and will they make the transition dropping the salinity?

 

[niles1967]

The bacteria will go into "hibernation" and not break down ammonia or nitrites. The bacteria will not die though. They are not the same bacteria as fresh or brackish water. That is the biggest headache with hypo in a QT tank. The ammonia will spike quickly and water changes will need to be done several times weekly.

 

[fittiger]

Thanks for the reply.

So they will do no good. I was planning on doing daily 10% water changes with 3 3" (average) fish in a 33gal cube. Would that be sufficient. Also I am going on vacation in 3 weeks for 4 days. Will that be too long of a time without a water change?

 

[Big E]

The bacteria will go into "hibernation" and not break down ammonia or nitrites. The bacteria will not die though. They are not the same bacteria as fresh or brackish water. That is the biggest headache with hypo in a QT tank. The ammonia will spike quickly and water changes will need to be done several times weekly.

Sorry, but you're completely wrong on this. The bacteria will be fine. The important thing is to have an established bacteria cycle in your system. This is where most people fail in setting up QT systems, they don't give the bacteria enough time to get established. You have to give the bacteria 4-6 weeks to get a good population going.

I've done hypo many times & never had a problem with ammonia or nitrites.

 

[niles1967]

Sorry but I you are completely wrong on this. At true hyposalinity (0.009) the bacteria in the tank will not convert ammonia and nitirites effectively. I have seen this happen in QTs and DTs many times, including my own. Fittiger, keep a very close eye on your water parameters while in hypo. (including ph as it is not stable in hypo either.)

 

[Big E]

At true hyposalinity (0.009) the bacteria in the tank will not convert ammonia and nitirites effectively. I have seen this happen in QTs and DTs many times, including my own. Fittiger, keep a very close eye on your water parameters while in hypo. (including ph as it is not stable in hypo either.)

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I don't know why I bother anymore, there is so much misinformation in these reef forums it's sad. There will be plenty of bacteria to keep up with the fish that they originally were supporting. They only way it won't keep up is if there were a ton in pods,worms, ect & they died causing an ammonia spike.

I've hypo-ed fully stocked aquariums at .009 for over 2 months without an issue more than once. If the filter is properly set up for the livestock that's in the system there will be zero problems.

Ph can drop but is usually a non issue if the tank was originally buffered correctly.

Advanced Aquarist even had an article about a guy that was running hypo full time in his system with many large angels & butterflies.

I don't recommend it past 8 weeks or so because I've seen other issues crop up like skin lesions, swim bladder, & bloating problems.

 

[Big E]

These instuctions give a good explanation of how to do it correctly. Follow this & you won't have any problems.

http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/hyposalinity.html

 

[fittiger]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12478899#post12478899 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fittiger
I was planning on doing daily 10% water changes with 3 3" (average) fish in a 33gal cube. Would that be sufficient. Also I am going on vacation in 3 weeks for 4 days. Will that be too long of a time without a water change?

What is your advice on this?

Hyposalinity should be maintained for at least 4 weeks but 6 weeks is preferable. If there is any reinfection of the "Ich" during the treatment, the treatment should be extended to at least 4 weeks after the disappearance of the last cyst.

If you have been treating in a quarantine tank, you will need to leave the display tank with no fish in it for at least 30 days.

If hyposalinity is breaking the cycle, why is it suggested for 6 weeks and the display fallow period required is only 30 days?


Also, I am performing this treatment on a 3" scopas tang, a 3" potters angel, and a 3" lyretail anthias. I also have a few green chromis that I plan to get rid of as all they do is hide until feeding time. I am also getting rid of a Allen's damsel. Should I just take these back to the LFS knowing they have ich? I'm afraid I can't afford the bioload in my qt with the angel/tang/anthias.

Also I have a wonderful little mandarin. What should I do about him. I want my main tank completely fallow. Suggestions?

 

[jda]

I have never had any issues with ammonia cycle in an established tank that I have used for hypo. I don't rush things and don't overfeed. I also don't change water any more than normal. I don't hypo that often though.

I have always viewed the 6 weeks, instead of 4, as an extra precaution.

You can kill lots of inverts with hypo and this will contribute to an ammonia spike.

You will have to give the mandarin away if you want a fish-free tank. Unless you plan on QTing all of your new rock, coral, inverts, etc. for 30-45 days in a fish free reef-like tank (with no new introductions during that period) and introducing no fish store or hobbyist water, then ich will get back in your tank on these types of additions as well. I consider an ich-free tank mostly academic for 99% of hobbists. However, hypo is a very good precaution. Unless you are planning on doing all of this from now forward for ANYTHING that is in water, then you might as well keep your mandarin in your tank since you will always run the risk of reintroducing ich anyway.

 

[fittiger]

Well, I was only planning on adding one or two more fish after this treatment is complete and planned on hypo treating them prior to adding them to the tank in hope that I could provide a ich-free tank. I QT all corals for 4 weeks before adding them as well.

So there is no way to do this and keep the mandarin?

 

[jda]

You can probably be ich free if you treat all new coral the same was as you would a fish - remember than the protazoan can live without fish (most people forget this). If you mess up once (like put a coral in QT midway through the 4 weeks), then you might as well plan on not being ich free anymore.

Unless you have an established home for the mandarin, then I don't see how you can do it.