hyposalinity cures marine ick or well this sucks
- Thread starter Steveb
- Start date
Lowering sg over 3 days is fine.
For calibration, I use a 50/50 solution of RO water and the pin point calibration fluid. The midpoint sg is closest to the sg needed for hyposalinity. Not sure what went wrong during treatment but hypo doesn't routinely kill fish IMO. As its been pointed out earlier, I wouldn't use hypo in conjunction with medication. Other things to watch out for are pH crashing and an ammonia surge. Both could cause casulties in already weakened fish.
Nitrifying bacteria seem to take a few days to adjust to the different salinity IME. I've often had a low ammonia reading for the first few days during hypo and am always prepared for massive water changes during this time. As an aside, the alert badge, while useful, is not good enough to indicate the real ammonia level in a tank. At least thats what I've found when I've cross checked with a test kit. With pH, I automatically adjust alkalinity of the RODI water to be added. I also check the tank pH twice daily just to catch any possible problems early.
Guess what I'm getting at it is all proven cures have possible things that can go wrong. You just need to plan for them and the likelihood of treatment working greatly increases. JM2c
For calibration, I use a 50/50 solution of RO water and the pin point calibration fluid. The midpoint sg is closest to the sg needed for hyposalinity. Not sure what went wrong during treatment but hypo doesn't routinely kill fish IMO. As its been pointed out earlier, I wouldn't use hypo in conjunction with medication. Other things to watch out for are pH crashing and an ammonia surge. Both could cause casulties in already weakened fish.
Nitrifying bacteria seem to take a few days to adjust to the different salinity IME. I've often had a low ammonia reading for the first few days during hypo and am always prepared for massive water changes during this time. As an aside, the alert badge, while useful, is not good enough to indicate the real ammonia level in a tank. At least thats what I've found when I've cross checked with a test kit. With pH, I automatically adjust alkalinity of the RODI water to be added. I also check the tank pH twice daily just to catch any possible problems early.
Guess what I'm getting at it is all proven cures have possible things that can go wrong. You just need to plan for them and the likelihood of treatment working greatly increases. JM2c
Chris27
New member
I like copper sulfate aka ionic copper...unlike cupramine, you can use products like Prime or Amquel to temporarily deal with ammonia. Provided you don't have any calcareous material in the tank, it's very easy to dose and test. All in all, copper sulfate is the most effective against the parasite and it's relatively easy on the fish provided it's dosed and tested properly.
dohc97
Active member
thats very interesting to read because anyone i have ever talked to keeps pointing me to cupramine as being the safest copper treatment.
Personal thing I guess, but I'd never use CuSO4 again.
I used copper sulfate for the first time 20 years ago. Hated it then and intensely dislike it now. IME Cupramine hands down is more 'gentle' on the fish, unless you do something silly like use a dechlorinator which reduces the copper to the far more toxic form. AFAIK ionic copper is far more toxic to the fish.
I used copper sulfate for the first time 20 years ago. Hated it then and intensely dislike it now. IME Cupramine hands down is more 'gentle' on the fish, unless you do something silly like use a dechlorinator which reduces the copper to the far more toxic form. AFAIK ionic copper is far more toxic to the fish.
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