Hyposalinity: how-to; when-to; how-long-to

Is it possible that it's just spots left over after the cysts fell off? If not I guess you just have to hang in there. Of course another possibility is that it isn't ich and just another disease that looks simliar.
 
The non infectious stage can last 3-28 days, you need 6 to 8 weeks in hypo, read here for more detailed info: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1985626

Also are you using a refractometer to measure salinity and has it been calibrated to a salt water standard?

I have cured two cases of ich but it took the full 8 weeks.

Yes I am using a refractometer calibrated to a salt water calibration solution, it's dead on.. I also have a tape line on the tank and I keep the tank at that line and my PH is good also..

I guess I was just hoping that 21 days would result in no more spots showing up, lets hope the next 28 days nets results, the good news is it's not to many spots so it must be dieing off..
 
taggin along. Tank crashed because of a algae bloom....fish stressed, ick exploded in my tank. RIP purple tang, powder blue, yellow, and my vala tang. Currently my SOHO, fighter that he is, is losing. going hypo now, wish me luck.
 
hello, i had ich in my tank and put all the fish in quarentine (almost completely cycled and all fish are happy and eating well). the QT has some live rock, proteing skimmer, HOB filter and some PVC pipes as well... i am noticing the two Hippo tangs (blue regal) are starting to show signs of ick again and scratching occasionally. none of the other tangs or fish are showing sings yet (tank has been fallow for three weeks and will remain so until treatment ends). My question is can i do Hyposalinity on the QT with the live rock, skimmer etc) or will the bacteria die off and force me to do water changes every two days to combat ammonia???... Also how will the PH be affected in the QT when i start doing hypo will i have to use some sort of buffer???

sincerely,

robin
 
Roadracn - Sorry to hear of your crash in the display. Good luck with the SOHO in the hypo.

Reckless1 - I would continue to a hypo in the QT. If needed, you can remove the LR. Also, the LR can harbor the Ich parasite just as a sandbed. This is the reason for a bare bottom and no LR in the QT. If you need to combat ammonia you can perform water changes as needed. You also can use Kardon's AmQuel which removes ammonia. As for the PH, keep some baking soda close by if needed to raise the ph.

I had 5 fish in Hypo for 4 weeks and all went well.
 
I just finished a hypo treatment. What do I need to do to my Q/T tank to ensure it's free of the Ich parasite? Would a wash with a vinegar solution suffice?
 
The hardest part of hypo, for me, is PATIENCE! I'm at 7 weeks finally. I miss my fish! I keep reminding myself this is my punishment for not QTing in the first place, so I keep waiting. It's about time to start raising my salinity, so at least I feel like there is some action.

During the hypo period, I have tried to focus on water quality and scaping in my DT so that I feel proactive. I feel like my display is ten times more beautiful and healthy than it was, and my fish will have a clean, exciting new home to come back to.
 
Can someone help me out...comment a little about water changes during hypo treatment ? When to do it, how often, caveats etc.

If ammonia becomes detectable, water change or just amquel ?

thanks !!
 
A little tip, you can set a ATO for a QT with a float valve a 5 gallon bucket, easy and cheap, that will take this variable out of the equation.

And the other point, if you like me set the tank next to you DT and you have a controller you can use the controller to monitor the QT ph and dose if needed or add it to your ATO water once you determine how water swing.
 
anything wrong with using 8 week fallow DT water to bring up the salinity in a 8 week HT coming back from 1.009?

@ Week 4 of hypo. issues with pH Climbing?
 
Hi my display tank total volume is around 250 galllons. My fishes has ick and I want to use the hypo treatment. I will remove all my corals and rocks from the tank to start the treatment. Here is what I currently have running in the tank a 1500 laugna return pump, 6105 and 6060 tunze power head, tunze wavevbox and a bubble king 250 cone. What other equipment do I need? My current salinity is 1.020 and temp is 79-80. How many days should I take to low the salinity to 1.009?

If I remove my live rocks and put it in the rubbermaid container with my display water how long do I leave it there before return it to the display. What equipments should be added for the rock?

Let me know if I miss anything?

Thanks in advance Jimmy
 
You will want to probably drop the protein skimmer from the tank for now as it won't run correctly in low salinity. Keep temperature the same, DO NOT raise temp as this is only effective for freshwater ich. I would gradually change over to 1.009. with the loss of rocks I'm sure you are already at a loss of water. The idea is not to stress the fish too much by doing too rapid of a change. The water you are putting in will be most likely a different temperature unless you heat that as well. Several days will be ok. You most likely will notice a change in the fish immediately because they will have more oxygen with a lower salinity, plus they use less energy. You want to monitor for ammonia spikes, which can happen as you are removing part of your filtration(liverock and protein skimmer) You may want to look into water treatment products that neutralizes ammonia. I like to keep an ammonia badge in the tank so i can see if there are any problems going on...Good luck
 
Thanks cougaran. I decide to setup a 100 gallons hypo tank without live rock or sand just PVC pipes. I just hook up my eheim canister filter with hollow ceramic materials and sponges to my display. Should I add carbon to the filter? How long does it have to run before I can transfer the filter to the hypo tank? I will have two power head, two air pumps and two heaters in the tank. Can I use 80 gallons from display tank and 20 gallons ro/di and transfer the fishes from display the same day? How often do I need to test the tank for ph, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate? How often should I can water and what percentage? Iwill also add a ph monitor to check the ph. Am I missing anything? Sorry for all the questions.

Thanks Jimmy
 
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