Hyposalinity ph question

[Zer0.]

Hey all,

I have some fish that are fairly healthy but have a slight case of ich.

One of the fish in question is flame angel, so I've counted cupramine out.

I have some NLS ich sheild powder on hand, but ive read mixed reviews on this, especially with wrasse. (one of the fish is also a big fat melanuras wrasse)

Tank transfer is also something I have considered but my salt mix (kent Marine) seems to mix up with ammonia in it when freshly mixed, so I am weary of this as well.

I am thinking I will try hypo salinity in a bare bottom 75. I have an ATO and refractometer so I think I should be good to go, however, I have read about people having casualties from Ph dropping due to the lowered salinity.

My questions are, can I use a targeted ph bufffer from the fish store or better off using baking soda? Also, would it be a better idea to add the buffer to my freshwater in the ATO? (and bring it to around 8.0 ph?) or mix up the buffer and add directly into tank.

Also, should I recalibrate my refrac. to 1.00 with ro/di water? or just stay calibarated to 35 ppt with 35 ppt pinpoint solution?

All my fish are actually looking pretty good, the only fish currently showing signs is a blue hippo tang (of course). So I am trying to take my time and do this right. (currently cycling 75 gallon, using a 8x8x4 marinepro block for biofilter).

Thanks in advance for any advise/insight,
-Z

 

[Zer0.]

No one has any advise on this?

Also, wondering if having a sand bed for the wrasse would cause any problems with hypo and how much hypo affects the bio filter.

Thanks,
-Z

 

[ThRoewer]

I would try to keep the pH above 8 (use 2 part solution).
And calibrate the refractometer with RO or distilled water as you want accuracy in the lower range.

 

[snorvich]

My advice is tank transfer rather than hypo.

 

[ThRoewer]

My advice is tank transfer rather than hypo.

I would combine them:
- less cost (less salt)
- less stress for the fish
- extra layer of safety

 

[snorvich]

I would combine them:
- less cost (less salt)
- less stress for the fish
- extra layer of safety

Yes, but you use hypo in the context of 1.016/7 rather than 1.009. The former would be desirable, the latter would not be.

 

[tthouston]

First, using small tank it easier for clean up while do transfer metal and save mix salt.
Second, you have to mix at 1.008 to MAX 1.009 ONLY
Don't worry, fishes still happy and eat well.
Transfer to other tank every 3 days and repeat 4 times, your fishes will be ok, treatment complete.

 

[tthouston]

Using your old saltwater and add more RODI to going down 1.008 when move fishes to other small tank then clean other tank and every equipment in that tank real well.

 

[ginpang]

At work I used to do something that loosely resembled TTM , but with Qt at 1.018-1.019 with 20 to 30 sec freshwater bath every 24 hours for the first 3- 4 days then every 48 hours until showed no signs of parasites .

 

[alwmh4]

I'm about to do hyposalinity myself. I was just advised re ph to monitor alk more then ph. Obviously dosing for low alk w baked baking powder will help with ph so I'm actually hoping for low alk.

 

[DrPat]

kalk

kalk

why not replace evaporation with kalkwasser and mointor ph

 

[DrPat]

calibration

calibration

Hey all,

I have some fish that are fairly healthy but have a slight case of ich.

One of the fish in question is flame angel, so I've counted cupramine out.

I have some NLS ich sheild powder on hand, but ive read mixed reviews on this, especially with wrasse. (one of the fish is also a big fat melanuras wrasse)

Tank transfer is also something I have considered but my salt mix (kent Marine) seems to mix up with ammonia in it when freshly mixed, so I am weary of this as well.

I am thinking I will try hypo salinity in a bare bottom 75. I have an ATO and refractometer so I think I should be good to go, however, I have read about people having casualties from Ph dropping due to the lowered salinity.

My questions are, can I use a targeted ph bufffer from the fish store or better off using baking soda? Also, would it be a better idea to add the buffer to my freshwater in the ATO? (and bring it to around 8.0 ph?) or mix up the buffer and add directly into tank.

Also, should I recalibrate my refrac. to 1.00 with ro/di water? or just stay calibarated to 35 ppt with 35 ppt pinpoint solution?

All my fish are actually looking pretty good, the only fish currently showing signs is a blue hippo tang (of course). So I am trying to take my time and do this right. (currently cycling 75 gallon, using a 8x8x4 marinepro block for biofilter).

Thanks in advance for any advise/insight,
-Z

never calibrate with fresh water!always use a known value solution refractometers can be off and still read zero.