I bet I have found the perfect wooden holding jig for building an acrylic aquarium!
- Thread starter Henry100
- Start date
runningstix
New member
wow this post is lame.
gonna link us or post a pic?
gonna link us or post a pic?
Let's explain it...Take a 2cm thick plywood straight piece,which is 50cm long and 15cm wide.Then,take two square plywood pieces,20x20cm,screw them at the two ends of the other plywood piece,so they should extent 5cm from it.Finally,take another plywood piece,15x50cm,and screw it to the two square plywood pieces,vertically from the first plywood piece.The two square pieces should also extent 5cm from this last piece.Now,you have finished.You can lay the jig on front panel,near its edge,then you insert the side panel into the jig and you use two cheap clamps to secure it.On the horizontal piece of the jig you must first put a few fishing sinkers so as the jig can't move.
whitesquall
Member
draw a picture so we can visualize it.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Henry,
Plenty of use use jigs of different kinds:
Plenty of use use jigs of different kinds:
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BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Your Jig would have to be built large enough to accomodate the largest panel you wish to glue up as well as the thickness of the material you wish to use. Jigs like I posted above are "one size fits all" and ensure a right angle as well.
A big advantage of my jig over the others,is that it allows to apply solvent glue on the entire edge of acrylic,without posing any obstacle in doing it.All the other jigs create smaller or bigger obstacles that can't be bypassed.Also,my jig doesn't have to be built very large,as it has to be slightly longer than the height of the aquarium,which is usually between 20''-24'' or even shorter!It can also be used for all the aquariums which are shorter than this!
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Each persons technique and jig preference will be different.
You would have to build a jig for EACH panel length and material thickness or devise an adjustment method to size the jig (and keep it rigid at the same time). Your jig would have to be tall enough to accomodate the largest project you plan to do. In other words, it is not nearly a "one size fits all" jig. You will need several different sizes to accomodate differnt project and materials. From my perspective your proposed jig does not offer an advantage but rather may drawbacks
Your perspective is clearly different.
My jig (and others like it) are very simple to build and use and are "one size fits all". They work for any size project my friend
I can glue both ends of a panel if I want, as I have (4) of the jigs. They take up very little space and once built never need to be altered or adjusted.
A "perfect" jig is one that meets the needs and expectations of the person using it. My idea of a perfect jig is one that is easy to construct, store and use with repeatable results. You proposed jig does not meet my criteria, though it may meet yours
You would have to build a jig for EACH panel length and material thickness or devise an adjustment method to size the jig (and keep it rigid at the same time). Your jig would have to be tall enough to accomodate the largest project you plan to do. In other words, it is not nearly a "one size fits all" jig. You will need several different sizes to accomodate differnt project and materials. From my perspective your proposed jig does not offer an advantage but rather may drawbacks
Your perspective is clearly different.My jig (and others like it) are very simple to build and use and are "one size fits all". They work for any size project my friend
I can glue both ends of a panel if I want, as I have (4) of the jigs. They take up very little space and once built never need to be altered or adjusted.
A "perfect" jig is one that meets the needs and expectations of the person using it. My idea of a perfect jig is one that is easy to construct, store and use with repeatable results. You proposed jig does not meet my criteria, though it may meet yours
Furthermore,it does not have to accomodate the specific thickness of the material being used.The gap is much larger(3cm and above),so as to allow for solvent welding the entire edge.Thus,it accomodates with ease the thickest material and there is enough gap left for solvent welding.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Henry, you have simply described the logical opposite of the internal right angle jig shown above. You have merely lengthened it to accomodate both ends of the panel. However, as I mentioned the panel height size is limited by the jig height and the panel length is fixed. You need a jig for each project and that defeats the basic ease of use
Lets try this from another perspective. There are two basic types of jigs.
1) multi-purpose
2) single-purpose
The multi-purpose jig (like the one I pictured) can be used for MANY project sizes and types with a moderate level of setup and ease of use. The jig is not well suited to production compared to a single-purpose jig. It is well suited to DIY projects that differ in size and scope.
The single-purpose jig (like you propse) is more suited to production runs of identical pieces. There is no setup. You gain speed in a production environment but limit yourself in a one-off type of hobby environment.\
Your idea is not at all bad, it is just not well suited to somebody looking for a simple multi-use jig and is more suited to a production run of same size products.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13880961#post13880961 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Your jig would have to be tall enough to accomodate the largest project you plan to do. In other words, it is not nearly a "one size fits all" jig.
I can't see why my jig has to be tall enough and why it isn't a ''one size fits all'' jig...
stugray
Premium Member
One advantage I see of Henry's is the access to the joint from both sides for glue ( as he stated ).
I have always wanted to build an acrylic holding jig made from cheap drill press vises ( the ones with the screw that allows you to adjust position).
The way I visualize mine is that you clamp the vertical piece with the clamp on each end, then once everything is exactly where you want it, you turn the screws to lift the piece to make the capillary gap.
You apply the weldon, wait, then turn the screws to close up the gap & apply pressure.
I hate the needle or wire method. Everytime I pull out the wires, it leaves bubbles behind.
I figured I could build two of them for less than $100 from harbor freight.
Stu
I have always wanted to build an acrylic holding jig made from cheap drill press vises ( the ones with the screw that allows you to adjust position).
The way I visualize mine is that you clamp the vertical piece with the clamp on each end, then once everything is exactly where you want it, you turn the screws to lift the piece to make the capillary gap.
You apply the weldon, wait, then turn the screws to close up the gap & apply pressure.
I hate the needle or wire method. Everytime I pull out the wires, it leaves bubbles behind.
I figured I could build two of them for less than $100 from harbor freight.
Stu
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
For some methods of construction, a jig of that nature is certainly an advantage. For acrylic we use the capilary method. Most plural component glues are used in production environments, where a jig of that nature is common.
Harbor freight is having its annual 1$ sale today (or maybe it is tomorrow).
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Henry, if the end of the acrylic panel has to slide INTO the gap formed by your jig, then the jig MUST be at least as large as the panel.
So lets assume you build the slot 20" tall to construct a 20" high sump. Great all works just fine. Now lets use the same jig to build a 10" high sump. Your clamps would have to be able to span the 10" difference between the top of the jig and the top of the panel.
You need to construct a custom jig for most glue ups. I see no advantage for DIY use. Again, if you are planning even modest production runs, then the can be worth the trouble.
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