I did my plumping, and I need help

[BlackTip]

I tested my plumping today. 96X30X26 tank. 1.5" pipes. Two return lines, and 3 for bean animal setup.

I used sche. 80 threaded bulkheads. I found two pipes are leaking at the threaded adapters - the open channel and one return line. I used thread sealer and I was very diligent tightening them properly.Due to the lack of space, I didn't use unions.

Replacing the entire connection will be a pain in the a$$. Can I use epoxy or anything else to prevent leaking?

Thanks,

 

[tennesseebob]

You def don't want a permanent weld on that stuff if yo can help it, when you say threaded joint, is it the bulkhead around the gasket or is it the fitting screwed into the bulkhead?

 

[BlackTip]

You def don't want a permanent weld on that stuff if yo can help it, when you say threaded joint, is it the bulkhead around the gasket or is it the fitting screwed into the bulkhead?

The fitting screwed to the bulkheads. Underneath the tank.

 

[slief]

What did you use for a thread sealant? For anything over 1/2" pipe thread, I always use teflon paste pipe sealant and not teflon tape and I NEVER have leaks. You just need to apply the teflon paste liberally to the male threads making sure to get the stuff into all the threads that will come in contact with the female counterpart. I usually use a flat piece of cardboard to insure the paste is worked into the threads evenly such that the paste fills the low points in the threads to the point that the paste is level with the high points of the threads. Essentially you are filling the threads with the paste. The nice thing about the paste is that it never hardens so you can always remove the fittings but it will never ever leak if you get it in the threads well enough.

If I were in your shoes, I would plug the tank from the inside using either a capped PVC pipe or threaded plugs. The remove the pipe from the bottom of the tank and reseal them properly. The PVC plugs inside the tank will be more than sufficient to hold any water back while you do the repair.

 

[beadlocked450r]

Silicone

 

[ericarenee]

What did you use for a thread sealant? For anything over 1/2" pipe thread, I always use teflon paste pipe sealant and not teflon tape and I NEVER have leaks. You just need to apply the teflon paste liberally to the male threads making sure to get the stuff into all the threads that will come in contact with the female counterpart. I usually use a flat piece of cardboard to insure the paste is worked into the threads evenly such that the paste fills the low points in the threads to the point that the paste is level with the high points of the threads. Essentially you are filling the threads with the paste. The nice thing about the paste is that it never hardens so you can always remove the fittings but it will never ever leak if you get it in the threads well enough.

If I were in your shoes, I would plug the tank from the inside using either a capped PVC pipe or threaded plugs. The remove the pipe from the bottom of the tank and reseal them properly. The PVC plugs inside the tank will be more than sufficient to hold any water back while you do the repair.

I use this as well or Plumbers putty on Threads.

 

[slief]

Silicone

That will not work to seal leaking threads from the outside. If there is any water coming out of the connection, it will usually push right past the wet silicone and continue leaking even after the silicone is dry.

 

[BlackTip]

I used Oatey Thread Sealnt from HomeDepot. I applied it liberally. There was too much of it after screwing the adapters in, I had to clean afterward. I even used compressed air to clean all male and female threads before applying and joining.

It took me two days to do it due to the very tight space I had to work with. I had to re-arange my my sump, which missed up with the opening space I designed specifically to slide the skimmer in and out. I just didn't releaize how big the valves and the unions are. I ended up using one valve instead of two.

I am not worry about water. I am testing with fresh tap water, and my sump can handle the water volume.

So, no silicone. Will epoxy work?

 

[slief]

I used Oatey Thread Sealnt from HomeDepot. I applied it liberally. There was too much of it after screwing the adapters in, I had to clean afterward. I even used compressed air to clean all male and female threads before applying and joining.

It took me two days to do it due to the very tight space I had to work with. I had to re-arange my my sump, which missed up with the opening space I designed specifically to slide the skimmer in and out. I just didn't releaize how big the valves and the unions are. I ended up using one valve instead of two.

I am not worry about water. I am testing with fresh tap water, and my sump can handle the water volume.

So, no silicone. Will epoxy work?

Are you sure you don't have the bulkhead nut so tight that your pinching the gasket or too loose or worse that you didn't crack the nut? Do you have bulkhead gasket on the wetside with the flange on the wetside too? I don't mean to ask dumb questions. I ask this because the teflon paste (if used properly) should never leak.

 

[BlackTip]

Are you sure you don't have the bulkhead nut so tight that your pinching the gasket or too loose or worse that you didn't crack the nut? Do you have bulkhead gasket on the wetside with the flange on the wetside too? I don't mean to ask dumb questions. I ask this because the teflon paste (if used properly) should never leak.

The gasket is on the inside of the tank. The bulkheads themselves are not leaking. I made sure not to over tighten the adapters. Here is a photo.

 

[woodnaquanut]

The gasket is on the inside of the tank. The bulkheads themselves are not leaking. I made sure not to over tighten the adapters. Here is a photo.

Get a powerful light up in there and see if the BH has cracked. The big issue is male adaptors can easily generate excessive force and crack a fitting like the BH. The male adaptors look like they are screwed in quite far.

Spears recommends 1-2 turns after finger tight https://youtu.be/Auyhm7YKQEI .

Finding out exactly where the water is leaking can be hard. Where you see the leak is often not where it's leaking from!

I'd take a piece of dry paper towel and touch up higher on the BH to see if the leak is really coming from the BH seal or a crack in the BH.

 

[slief]

Get a powerful light up in there and see if the BH has cracked. The big issue is male adaptors can easily generate excessive force and crack a fitting like the BH. The male adaptors look like they are screwed in quite far.

Spears recommends 1-2 turns after finger tight https://youtu.be/Auyhm7YKQEI .

Finding out exactly where the water is leaking can be hard. Where you see the leak is often not where it's leaking from!

I'd take a piece of dry paper towel and touch up higher on the BH to see if the leak is really coming from the BH seal or a crack in the BH.

+1. They do look to be threaded pretty far in there.. I would definitely check very closely to make sure the BH didn't crack as you mentioned. With the teflon paste, it doesn't take much thread to get a good seal and with as much paste as the OP said was used and as far as those things are threaded in, there is no way that should be leaking unless the BH is cracked or the teflon paste wasn't applied well.

 

[ca1ore]

Agree to check for cracks, though bulkhead tail ends do have slightly 'looser' threads so may not be the problem. FWIW I prefer slip/weld connections in hard to reach spots.

Also, you certainly can use silicone sealant as a thread sealer, but only when the system is dry and you give it adequate curing time.

 

[BlackTip]

Gentlemen, thank you for all of your help. I checked the bulkheads, and they are fine. The leak is coming from the threaded connections. Now, I have three leaking not two.

I used sched 40 threaded fittings with sched. 80 bulkheads. I read somewhere that I should not have done that.

Is this could be the problem?

I am planning on cutting the pipes, replacing the adapters, and use coupling to connect the other pieces. Should I look for sched. 80 fittings? None of the local hardware stores carry sched. 80 fittings. So, I will have to order it online and wait.

 

[ca1ore]

I don't believe there is any problem using Sch40 piping/fittings with Sch80 bulkheads. I've done it many times. Though, I'm still a 'wrapper'.

 

[woodnaquanut]

I don't believe there is any problem using Sch40 piping/fittings with Sch80 bulkheads. I've done it many times. Though, I'm still a 'wrapper'.

I agree. Of course, I'm a wrapper too.

If you aren't a wrapper, does that make you a goo-er? :lol:

 

[slief]

Gentlemen, thank you for all of your help. I checked the bulkheads, and they are fine. The leak is coming from the threaded connections. Now, I have three leaking not two.

I used sched 40 threaded fittings with sched. 80 bulkheads. I read somewhere that I should not have done that.

Is this could be the problem?

I am planning on cutting the pipes, replacing the adapters, and use coupling to connect the other pieces. Should I look for sched. 80 fittings? None of the local hardware stores carry sched. 80 fittings. So, I will have to order it online and wait.

Then you didn't use enough of the paste. You need to cover the threads from the top of the male thread to the bottom of it and make sure you get it completely into the threads to the point that the voids are 100% filled. Like I said before, I have never had a leak using teflon paste and I use the same Otay stuff.

That said, you really are not supposed to use the outer bulkhead threads as they are not an NPT thread/fitting and don't taper like a plumbing thread. They are a normal thread and designed for the bulkhead nut. Having said that, that is how I plumbed my drain lines and they are just fine and don't leak and I used Sch40 fittings and Sch40 bulk heads. Just be sure to really coat those threads.

 

[Ted_C]

I had this happen to me as well on a few (not all) of my threaded fittings - allthough I use a different teflon pipe sealant - rectorseal. Mixing sch 40 and 80 is not recommended by hard core plumbers (those that work on plumbing for a living). For what we do int he aquarium hobby, it should be ok and not an issue.

Unfortunately - your going to have to take them apart and add additional pipe sealant. Think of it as requiring a "second coat." This time, don't clean up the excess pipe thread sealant.

I can see how that is going to be alot of work for you and I'm sorry - but it's the truly only correct way to fix your leak. Trying to add something after the fact to plug the leak wont solve your issues in the long term.

You may not need to cut anything if you can work from the bulkhead side of the plumbing. Loosen the nut holding the bulkhead to the glass and see if you can't unscrew the fitting from the bulkhead (after draining the overflow of course).

 

[sleepydoc]

Then you didn't use enough of the paste. You need to cover the threads from the top of the male thread to the bottom of it and make sure you get it completely into the threads to the point that the voids are 100% filled. Like I said before, I have never had a leak using teflon paste and I use the same Otay stuff.

That said, you really are not supposed to use the outer bulkhead threads as they are not an NPT thread/fitting and don't taper like a plumbing thread. They are a normal thread and designed for the bulkhead nut. Having said that, that is how I plumbed my drain lines and they are just fine and don't leak and I used Sch40 fittings and Sch40 bulk heads. Just be sure to really coat those threads.

Did you screw the fitting on the outside of the bulkhead (where the nut screws on?) If so than that is your problem. The fittings should connect to the inside of the bulkhead, whether they are slip or threaded.

+1 on using slip fittings and gluing them - much easier and more secure!

 

[BlackTip]

I fixed the leaking pipes yesterday (I think, finger crossed), and in the process I cut myself and I think I fractured or bruised a knuckle. It will be worth it, right?

I believe I figured what I did wrong. The directions on the thread sealant can states that for pipes larger than 1 1/4", the sealant must be applied to both male and female threads. I applied it only to the male thread the first time.

I tested for an hour, and there is no leaks. I will test tonight for couple more hours, before I call it success.