I got Water!!!!

[ReefMeister2]

Had a feeling you'd ask, so....

Here's one of a thousands different possibile configuratations that I whipped up in a few minutes:

- 1 x 1" supply in and 3 x 3/4" out
- slip x slip fittings (for demo only)
- end pluged (not glued) for future possible use
- double-union ballvalve used for breakdown/cleaning purposes
- total cost ~ $25 or so

 

[ShadowViper]

looking at how much room you have in there, i would hold off on finishing the plumbing till you have the sump/pump you want, you may find with a new pump/sump you have to redo your whole plumbing again.

Another thing that i just noticed, may be a little late though, is you should use threaded fittings right under the bulkhead. this way if something happens to the bulkhead/gasket you dont have to cut up your plumbing to get to it.

Oh if you use the soft hose don't use 1 in ID with 1 In PVC. Since soft hose connects inside the hose you acutally are creating a bottle neck since the adapter is 1 in Outer dimension to fit inside the hose, which means the inner dimmension of the 1 in adapter is smaller then 1 in. I know with the mag 24 they say use 1.5 in ID hose .

 

[DgenR8]

[flamealert]

Guys,
With the vast number of people on this board, there are going to be personality clashes among members. What we have done to alleviate that, is the ignore button. Someone you don't want to hear from? Click the profile link in any of their posts, look near the bottom of the page for a link that says "Add _____ to your ignore list" Once you click that link, you can browse, post and read without being bothered by that person, that includes RC's email and PM functions.

 

[Bergovoy]

I'm not trying to be an *** when I say this, but again, you have a lot of water volume in that system, and if you're not emotionally prepared for "stuff" to happen, reefkeeping in general might prove somewhat more stressful than anticipated

You know the answer before you typed it. And I appreciate your last message, thank you.

But we are not yet friends, and no I do not know how to take that type of comment, not from my friend or from you, so like I asked andit seems you heard me, please refrain from venturing comments aboutme or what I may or may not be ready for in your opinion.

and like my other post, (for those with less then 2 cents worth of common sense), you can offer help or support, and or try to answer the question, but anything less then that is not condusive to a positive conversation or thread / discussion. Your opinions may be valid, as are mine about you but either please help and answer the questions or dont.

Thanks.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8933419#post8933419 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by flat broke
Sorry you find my posts so offensive. What I said to you is exactly the same kind of frank reply I'd give to a friend if they were strugling with something and asking for a good amount of hand holding. It doesn't mean I think you should give up or anything like that, but half of what anyone gets out of something they read, is something they read into it.

I have nothing against anyone asking questions as I ask more than my share. If you look past the portion of my post that offended you, you'll notice I tried to give specific input to your situation. I'm not one to slam someone for doing something themselves. I've cut up boats and started on repairs most would say I had no business doing. I would never buy a stand or canopy, and overall I pride myself on being able to handle most things myself; so it would be extremely hypocritical for me to chastise someone else for trying to do the same. That being said, you can rest assured I'm not trying to dissuade you from your task.

Now specific to the diverter valve problem, check the part number that you have. If you want to keep a similar setup, Danner PN 5535 is the diverter they recommend for your pump. It has 1" npt fittings and may be better suited to your application.

I am not sure of the part number right now, it will have to come off for me to look on the back side of it. I ordered thepart at the same time as the pump, and believe it was the part reccomended for this pump. I dod remember that there were two diverter valves for different pumps and intended on getting the one for this pump. The valve does have two 2 inch male threaded fittings, but it has the one three quarter fittings, and believe the post above about it being to a proprietary device. I emailed Daner two daysa ago and have not heard back from them.

I will yank it out and just use the manifold I have already plumbed to accomplish teh same task.

With regard to the noise issue. I saw that you mentioned the suction cup mounts. But I can tell you from personal experience on the Sedra 3500 pump on my skimmer that the suction cup mounts did little to quell the vibration against the bottom of my glass sump. When I did the silicone feet, things got noticeably quieter. Probably because the silicone feet come to a point and allw the pump to occilate slightly nullifiying the forces that would otherwise transmit a vibration. I wasn't ignoring your previous post, just trying to make a quick response to an alternative method of dealing with the issue.

All things being equal, the external pump can usually be more energy efficient, transmit less heat to your water, and typically quieter than an in sump pump. However, the thought of a mechanical seal failure (seen it happen on a dart and on other types of pumps) while I'm away for the weekend, has me looking at keeping a submersible pump for my return pump in my relatively small 60 gallon cube.

If you keep the mag for your return pump the rule they use on the .75" outlet pumps is to double that diameter for the plumbing. Increasing the pipe diameter will have a positive effect on reducing head loss. But if you're getting most of your flow from the CL, then you don't really need to worry about that aspect of things too much.

I have about 2 feet of one inch pvc after the outlet on the mag pump, Then it goes to a 1-1/2" manifold. I set that back down at the return line piping at the bottom of the tank. The only other thing was going to install some flex pvc in the pipe after the mag pump prior to the manifold. I hav picked up the pump, tried to rest my hand onit to see if dampening it mad e difference, and nothing. It is the pump. It is just plain loud.

Anyone want it For CHEAP!!!

And what suggestions would you have for me now, and will it be powerfull enough for the manifold and or more then one device, hopefully at least the chiller too?
IF not, what suggestions at this point for the worlds most quietest pumps for the sump, the chiller, the calc reactor.

Thanks

Outside of that, I don't have much else for you. The o-rings shouldn't really need any greasing, but overtorquing can be a problem. On that other fitting you were looking at using a bigger wrench on (on the CL), be carefull not to overtighten if its the joint going into the Dart's housing.

Currently it seems tight, but it is only hand tight and at an awkward angle so I can not get a good grip, plus I am partiallyy paralized in the right hand / arm so the grip is not there. But with all that, it does seem like the threaded area is sufficiently screwed together.

I wish I had the wrench prior to my draining the tank, so I could just try a quick tightening,,,,,,,,,, Now I will have to try to tightenn and then re fill again to see if it worked, or just go ahead and take it apart and inspect the o ring first to see if I see anything out of the ordinary.

Good luck with it, and sorry I came accross like a horses hindquarters (that should avoid the sensorship scripting )

Understood. I appreciate your tips and any other suggestions.

I would appreciate being able to finish this without having to pay someone, but like I said, I dont have a problem in recognzing my limitations.

PAr tof the hand holding that you read into these messages are about the same thing. Plumbing.

I had hoped to avoid the issues by finding someone willing to come and share some of these tips, inperson and to see some of the conditions or ideas I had and either shoot them down right away or give me pointers to get me going and maybe avoid some issues that I ran into.

But as I pointed out, I dont have the experience to forecast the problems I am going to have until I get up to my neck in them, and then the only things I can see are what is in front of me at the time. Threefore creating teh eventuality of my coming back and asking more questions about plumbing that I could not forecast earlier.

There is no doubt that I am more qualificed in other areas, and hopefully shared some of those qualifications and or offered tips to others that have asked questions themselves.

And like you, I hope to repay or pay it forward with my attempts to help otehrs. I do not ask for that to be a balance, and to those that ask or seem to need, I offer EVERYTHING I have if it would help them.

But on the converse, I will not forget those that do not help, or rather those that seem to make it their job to break others down or in general cause grief.

Those people generally show thier true colors sooner rather then later in life anyway. A forum is not much different except for those that hide behind thier user names like a badge or actually like a shield.


Bill

 

[Bergovoy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8933464#post8933464 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefMeister2
Had a feeling you'd ask, so....

Here's one of a thousands different possibile configuratations that I whipped up in a few minutes:

Here is mine,

It is basically the same thing. I ended up cutting out one fo my valves and shrinking it down to fit into one side of the cabinet

Eventually the sumpo I am curently using will be gonners, and I will replace it witha a slightly shorter sump, (less then this one is at 20") And there will be better acess to the gate valve handles.

That back wall behind the stand is an exterior wall that leads to my private patio.

I intend on placing the chiller and calc reactor back there, and now maybe the sump with that loud mag pump of mine. REalistically, it is only 3 foot of distance to get there. This is going to happen sooner rather then later,

I just wanted to get my tank past the wet test and get the cycling started while I finished the electrical and install the components and accessories.

Thanks for the picture.

Bill

 

[flat broke]

Bill,

One thing to look at on your unions, is the plumbing aproacing the union it self. It's hard to tell in pics, but make sure the plumbing appoaching the union is parallel to the other side of the union, and if possible isn't pulling off axis once its' connected. Basically, make sure the union isn't really bearing any load besides holding the pipe together. I think I saw some braces/hangers on some of your stuff, so you've probably got it down, but just trying to point out something that can cause unions not to seal properly.

Chris

 

[Bergovoy]

I did not brace the pipe on that union, as it is extremely secure with only three to four feet of pipe between the two bulkheads the the connection to teh pump below. The pump below is loose to allow for the pipe to be secured and square to teh unions, ( I did think of that). AFter all connections were made and everything is working I was going to strap it all down.

The strap you saw actually was used to help me install teh manifold. And if you look at it in the pic, it is loose right now, as the pipe is just above it by abouut a half an inch.

Again I will strap everything down when the pipe passes the wet test.

I will loosen the bulkheads on the pipe that has the bulkheads to allow some play and alignement to occur on the unions, along with alternating the tightening of the bulkheads.

I am hopefull the unions will be okay. I am concerned about the union ball valve above the pump, I had it tightened as much as I could by hand and it still leaked. I will undo that fitting and check the o ring and all and then put it back together. And cross the fingers.

This has to happen. I now anm having issues with family and health, and it looks like my mother will be staying with me for a bit as she will be having surgery this friday to remove blood clots and stuff.

My living room and house need to be back together by then. so, tonight is the last ditch effort or I will need to get someone here this weekend to button it up...

So hold your breathe and I willkeep those that care informed...

Bill

 

[Bergovoy]

I have resecured the unions and installed new o rings. I have taken the unin ball valve apart from on top of the cl pump and it did not have an o ring installed.

I am sure it needs one as I have another union ball valve from the same store same mfg that did have an o ring.

I guess I am off to Lowes to get it...

Bummers.

BTW: should I use teflon tape on any of these union threads to make it easier to thread on and off???

Bill

 

[flat broke]

Bill,

Anywhere you are using pipe threads in place of glued joints, use tape or maybe teflon paste. I've never used paste in an aquarium application, but prefer it over tape for engine work. Maybe some of the other reefers have a preference or reason to use one over the other, but use something to seal the threads. Anytime I've tried to use the bare threads in an aquarium situation, I've had two problems. Either the fittings would slowly leak, thus creeping salt, or they would allow the introduction of microbubbles until the joint sealed off with a little salt creep. Either way, since I have re-done those joints with tape, no salt creep, and no bubbles.

Chris

 

[Bergovoy]

I used the paste on the metal to pvc threads and tape on the pvc to pvc threads.

I ended up using the tape on that union thread. Just the one at the pump on the CL.

The other unions that I had problems with I had already tightened them before I asked.

BUT,

I am wet testing again.

Everythign seems to be holding. The unions on the returns to the CL are dry and tight, and the union valve at the pump is also dry. I had a problem locating the o ring, and ended up with something a bit smaller, but made it work. The choice was to replace the entire section below the OM four way and above the pump.

So betweeen theo ring and the teflon tape, so far so good.

It will be on my list to watch and first scheduled maintenance when I repipe something else.

So, everything looks good for now.

It has been a long road, and I can see that some members on this board are not very freindly. I will definately keep my eyes on them and look forward to meeting them in person at the upcoming frag meet and any meeting that I go to.

Should be interesting to see if they are as much of an a as they are online...

Seems it is okay to provoke issues but not to respond.

I would hope the mods would have censored their provocations as equally as they did my response, but fairness is not something I expect from anyone but myself.

I will post more pics soon, and I am sure I am not down with my needing to be handheld as I am still setting up the tank and deciding on BB or sand.

I will looking to swap out the mag 24 soon also. I will be constructing my sump this weekend and locating it outside and will build a small deck and cabinet for it, my chiller and the calc reactor.

That part will be easier I hope.

I will also be working on my electrical, but that much I know will be easy. Although I am interested in getting an aquarium controller, and not sure which to get, or if there is a difference except in price.

I remember seeing on that someone on this board designed. I am confident that I can put it together if I can find it again. But am not sure if it is everything I need. I am looking for a light timer, a temp controller, and ph controller. That is it. (for now)

Anyways, here is to a dry floor in the morning...

Bill

 

[flat broke]

Lowes and HD don't have the most robust selection of O-rings. Usually Harbor Freight has a set of a wide variety of sizes for something like $5-10 bucks. Handy to have around for more than just the fish stuff. You might wanna check there for your correct sized replacement if you have some time.

As for the controller question. I've actually been doing a little research between the Reefkeeper and Auqua Controller Jr. For the $$, the ACjr is a little more robust featuring PH monitoring and control while you have to upgrade to the Reefkeeper II to get the same functionality. If you're going to want to log stuff to your pc, then you'll need to add a serial port to the ACjr, which drives the price up a little, but still keeps it under the price of the RKII which would be needed to measure PH. If you're ever going to run ozone, you might as well go for the ACIII so you can track disolved oxygen levels.

Overall, I chose to go the route of the ACjr w/serial port. I primarily wanted the logging and preffered the logic on the ACjr, as its a little more open and thus tweakable. But the possibility of using the webserver on my PC via the serial connection if I ever get severly geeked was also somewhat appealing. I don't travel for work anymore, but its nice to know I have a workaround handy if I wanted to keep an eye on things remotely.

The two systems mentioned are only a small sampling of whats available out there, but at the pricepoint I was looking in, they covered most anything I could reasonably want.

I believe that Reefmiester <sp> is a very big fan of automation, so you may want to PM him for his insights on the topic.

Chris

 

[Bergovoy]

I am definately looking to use or control the setting from my pc, so I am not sure if either of those two will do the trick. I think it is the RK3 or the AC pro, I think

And damnit I was just at harbor freight last nite.

But I have no leak right now, but will definately look into gettins some spares.

I am trying to figure out where I got that valve from. I thought it was lowes but was wrong, I must have gotten in online at marine depot.

I will check with them tomorrow sometime.

Bill

 

[flat broke]

The ACjr will do PC setup if you specify the addition of a serial port. If you want to step up from there with the AC line, you'd go to the ACIII which comes standard with the Serial, ethernet, and ORP connections.

Chris

 

[DgenR8]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8942281#post8942281 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bergovoy
I used the paste on the metal to pvc threads and tape on the pvc to pvc threads.

Forgive me for not thoroughly reading all posts in this thread, that line caught my eye.
Where in your system do you have metal?

 

[Bergovoy]

Oh, I might be mistaken, I guess teh housing on the Sequence Dart is plastic too. Sorry

Bill