I have a lot of questions

Conner, are you using city water? The phosphate levels are very variable in the Albuquerque city water, based on agricultural runoff, etc. upstream. The phosphates are like a fertilizer for the algae. As distasteful as it may seem, give some thought to buying some purified water, like RO. Wal-Mart and Smith's have it for pretty cheap. We inherited a nasty hair algae problem with one of our tanks, and we finally solved it with using only RO water and new lighting.

And one of my favorite quotes about the hobby: "Only bad things happen quickly in salt water aquaria." 8^) It's difficult to rein in the enthusiasm for getting new animals sometimes, but as Jason said, slow and steady will win the day.

Have fun!
 
Conner,

As I said before you dont have to take my advise, in fact most people in this hobby, my self included, tend to take little bits from hear and there and peice our own knowlege base together that works best for our set ups. Im sure you have herd this before "there is no one answer," if your tank is healthy your doing fine. And belive me I do under stand how hard it is to be patient... to give you an example from my tank, I wanted a lot of fish too so naturaly I did just that... long story short I dident use quarantine procedures and it took one sick yellow eyed tang and a move from my appartment to my new house to convince me that in this hobby patients can save you a lot of heart ache.....needles to say that one tang was a carier for what we suspect was both ich and Brook.....I lost 5 fist in 2 weeks, among them was a pair of ocelaris clowns, 1 dimond golbie, 1 bi-color blennie, and that yellow eyed tang for a total of $210 worth of fish. The kicker was that befor the move they all looked healthy....the stress of the move weakened their imune system and brought all kinds of bad things to the surface. But like Kevin and Karen said " Only bad things happen quickly in salt water aquaria." So a friendly piece of advise is "always ere on the side of caution"......and to answer your question some forms of Macro algea are not only good to look at but benifit your tank, such as ceato, madens hair....there are others but I cant remember them right now. But on the flip side cyano Bacteria is never good, it is an indicator of high phosphates and could point out areas of low water flow...also when and if you get corals it can smother them blocking much needed light and eventualy kill them. I hope you dont think Im trying to rag on you, I am just offering advice that has worked for me...and as I have said before and will say again this is just my opinion you dont have to use it. So happy reefing and good luck remember we are always here to answer questions and offer support, the most important thing to us is that you are successful and happy with your tank.

Jason
 
Conner,

one last thing, full cured live rock is very good, because it dosent go through a die back phase like freshly bought live rock from the store. the important thing is to keep it submerged in water or it will go into a die back phase. The less you can exspose it to air the better. If you notice when you bought live rock from the store they probaly wraped it in wet news papaer...well that is how it is shipped too, meaning it is out of water for 24+ hours with nothing but wet newspaper to keep it alive. This is why new live rock has to be cured, or in other words allowed to go through the die back phase. But yes fully cured live rock is allway best just be sure to keep it exsposed to the air as little as possible. Happy reefing.

Jason
 
Some relevance and for future knowledge. :D

hehe, Live rock is just as touchy subject as live sand, deep sand beds and bare bottoms. as tigersax said, no one answer is correct. I have successfully created reef / fish systems with cured live rock, non cured live rock, seeded base rock and nothing. There are SOOO many variables to consider.

To answer one of your questions, No matter what liverock you put in your system, there will ALWAYS be die-off. Just rotating the live rock in an existing tank will produce some die off. Its kind of like taking every house in Albuquerque and flipping it upside down, there will always be casualties. We do not see this because our systems are usually balanced and can accept small spikes.

While your system is capable of supporting life before a cycle is done, during the cycle stage, small spikes can have devastating effects in the long run. If you do not allow sufficient time for the system to reach a balance you CAN throw the system into a wave effect which will take much longer to calm down.

Size of the tank and filtering capabilities are number one in terms of what you can get away with. with the right skimmer, you can usually get away with just popping in some ordered live rock and waiting a few days rather then weeks. The key here is to order little amounts at a time (1-5lbs on a tank less then 50 gallons and 5-10lbs on a 50+ tank) this way you do not shock the system. If you have rather hardy creatures and a clean up crew, you would be fine.

Next comes the "touchy" subject. Man-Made (or also known as test tube) live rock is great, you get much of the good without the bad. Unfortunately this type of live rock CAN lack diversity. When you order live rock, you get an incredible amount of creatures, mostly bacteria and clean up crews. Because every system is different, your live rock will go through a very quick session of natural selection. Critters and bacteria that thrive with your setup will survive, ones that do not favor your setup will die off. This gives you a very strong and very resistant baseline.

This is not to say that test-tube rock is bad, and in most cases test tube rock is a clone of the original as long as the tank it was put into has a strong likeness to the ocean (lighting, salinity, natural predators, alk, calc, mag, ammonia, nitrate and nitrite)

For the environmental conscientious individual, I do not recommend using live rock from full ocean reefs unless you know for sure the rock is being taken from below the photosynthesis zone (areas so low that hard coral growth is impossible.) The rock I purchased a while back was certified by (insert organization that I forgot) to be grown near reef areas in an enclosed / controlled zone using base rock. This produces a very nice rock with a huge diversity without destroying the reefs.

Just go with what you feel is best and start small. Try not to be impatient (easier said then done)

Just as an example, I cycled my current tank 6 weeks after adding the live rock and sand bed. Because of my cyano outbreaks, I think I should have gone for 8 weeks. BUT my tank is finally clearing up (over a year later.) You do have to factor in that I used 150lbs of ordered rock and 150lbs of cured rock.

Anyway, thats my rant... :D


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8644755#post8644755 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by conner
really? in all of my freshwaters algae wasn't bad in the least bit. I will however ask Rob and/or Eric just in case: sorry I don't believe you that much I'm just really not very patient and excited and the prospect of getting no fish for a couple weeks is not a very happy thing to me. also, what would happen if i put fully cured live rock in the tank? Michael has offered to give me some of his, Eric says it is probably the best kind. man-made, so no parasites, fully cured, and covered in beneficial stuff. but would that go through the die-back phase?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8637955#post8637955 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by conner
ok, thanks. well, I think I will get something that'll at least do a bit of cleaning in my tank. also, the floor of my tank is brown from so much microalgae, also algae is starting to crawl up the sides. I can get my next fish the 29th, tomorrow, but I was wondering: I know turbo snails and lawnmower blennies eat algae, (i know i still have to feed the blenny other stuff), but what else will eat algae? I have to get something cheap, remember, but what would work? particularly, would a pearly jawfish, bicolor blenny, or peppermint shrimp eat it. (those are the top of my list for this week).

That brown algae sounds like a diatomic bloom, common to new tanks that are catching up to the bio load. The best way to get rid of any type of algae is to understand and attack the source of the problem. High Posphate feeds alge get rid of the source, common mistake people do is getting something to eat algae without getting rid of the source of problem then the critter contributes to the waste and creates a vicious cycle. Understand the source first lower or get rid of it then get critters to control it. We all know it is hard to be cheap in this hobby but you'll be surprised how something as simple as a water change made with RO water can do to Phosphate levels (high powerd skimmers do wonders as well). Patience will take you far in this hobby, they always say no tank is the same that's why i only completely unterstand how mine works.

Just some friendly info FYI

Cheers!:cool:
 
asfullax,

Good info, I never new just moving the rock could cause a small scale die off....but i guess the moral of the story is that to minimize die off be gentle with the live rock and keep it in water... you live you learn LOL.....BTW Conner Asfullax brought up an interesting point, Have you considered base rock? its usualy about $2 vs. $5 per/lb for live rock, the key is to pick out base rock that is both big and light (in weaght), this translates in to it being more poris and thus a better choice for base rock. You can pull two pieces out of the holding tank that are about the same size pick the lightest one. Well good luck...

Jason
 
ok, thanks guys, this is really helpful. well I have considered base rock and am planning on getting some when i have money. (i actually owe my mom 40 bucks over a fish i got wednesday). so i got 2 scarlet hermit crabs and a midas blenny, and now i gotta go. bye!
 
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